EXPLORATIONS &; ADVENTURES THE NIGER ,A :ll!011 agl' l1lotun tlJe l1lark Ritrer. BY '" \\ ARD, to-LlK i'~D 00. , LONDON: WARWIQK ROUSE, SALISDURY SQUARE, E.C loo"R" YORK : BOND S1'RBltT. TilE RlOnT IlO:-;OUR.1ULE nSCOUNT GODERICH, I" nE'(E'lDn,~:\('~ OF TIIB 1'.\TntOTIC Il'I"T&REST WlIIcn InS LORDSIl1I' IUS T.~KI::N 1./'1" Til E DrSCOVERrES THEY RECORD; \:-il) ll' "O".~N 0.' Qn_~TITUDE FOIt Tin: p.~TnONAGE WilieR IUS uni'r;'"OL}:l'CF. II \:\ CON"F'ER.'REI) ON TilE UITlIons, ~I)r.9'r ~arumr5 lin:. WITII illS LORDSIIIP'~ prR::UI~ION. ltU\lBLY Il'I"SCRIBEJ) U\ IUS 'IO!-Boos~u described-Resources of tho Country -One of Park's Books discovered-Equity of tbtl King- The Hostess_Departure from Boos$u-Kagogie-Canoes- Emblll'k on tho Niger-Description of tho River-Vilhge of Sooh~o-Rocky Darricr--Arriv3.1 :Lt Yaoone • 206 CHAPTER IX. Rcm3.fk~ on tho River-Intelligence of tho f.'tte of Mr. Puk -Hi~ Gun obtllined-Yiait to tho Sulta.n- Unsuccessful .Applicntiou for Mr. Pllrk', P3pU~ - The Kingdom. Ilnd City of Yaoorio and iu Nat\\TCS _ Tho Sultan's Son- Joaul'gCut4 - Tho Sultan>-s Daugbtcra- Mischief of tbo Widow Zumll-AppliC3.lion of tho Travellers to the King of Boo~.a-'Yllrs in Nouffie - Provincc.s of Hiin8S:l- Detcntion of the Travellcrs-Tho Sultau of Yaooric-His Cbarnctcr- Farewcll Yiut . . 231 ClL\PTER X. Lcavo Yi\GOric_Method of ,"I'atehing tho Com-Tbo Cum- bri.:l People-Thcir TrtatlDent.-Slecping Huta and Spc:u- of tbe Cuwbric- Arrivc at "rlU'ee-Garnienssa-Ignorancc of Ibe Nativej concerning thc coUl"!O of tbe Ri"cr-Thei£ xii. COXTEXl'S. PAGE Amusements- Return to Boossa-Yisit to 'Yowow recom- mended- Tho River consulted by the King of &oS$a - Kings of 111is City-Scareity of Provisions- Journey to 'Vowow- First Interview 'lith tho King . 267 ClJAPTER XI. Horse_rneing ntWowowon the Mohammednn &.bbntb_ I ndig_ n:nion of tho King of W OWO'l'l" ngmnst tlle King of RiaDl3 - Religious Pr~ession of females- Policy of the King of Wowow-Riehard Lander tnken ill-Leaves his Brother nt \Yowow, and returns to Boossa-Narrntive of John Lander -Tho BlcS8ing of the Priestess- Religious Sects-Their Creeds nnd IdellS of II Future State-Funeral and Marriage Ceremonies- P.uk's Dooks-Tho St.:lte~ of Dorgoo-Tho last of Park's Efiects-F'arewell to the King of \Yowow_ pcp:trturc- Vilbgc-Apprchonsions of the Natives_Tho Trnvcllers meet at Booss~ • . 292 INTROD UCTION, OF the numerous acquisitions that geography has made since the revival of letters and the extension of commerce, there 111'0 but few which have resulted from design, howeycr well conceived, or from the direct attempts of travellers, however perseveringly pursued. The diSCOYelJf of America was indeed Il. splendid example of both enlightt-ued conception nnd heroic effort, crowned wit.h success; and the unabated ardour ,,;th which this country has persisted in seeking for the river Niger, nnd in tracing its course, may well b(.' adduced as another illustrious lllSkl.Il6e . .Among the difficulties inseparable from the lot of tnlYcllcrs, those nrising from climu.te may be con- sidered u.s the most formidable. The immediate pre- sence of some iUllUincnt danger of a transient nature cannot be compared with the secret and incessant operations of an unJHmlthy climate; and no climate morc- than tha.t of Africa is noted for it-s fl\tal effects on Europc:\.ns. The slow progress of disco,'ery in Africa ha8 hitherto arisen, principally, from this xiy LXTHODUCTIOX. cause. \Vhilo other countries farther removed from ci"ilised Europe hayo wc1collleu tho researches of tho scientific tt'a,'oller, aud amI)I), rewarded him wit.h their l'icbe,S, Afl'ien boa slHlrnod him from hor ' ROil by the l\rt ,?f the counh'y os fo.r os DUUl'orn, he wouM in all probability have fonnel h is way down the Niger, had he not been intcl'l'Upted 1))" the lln.tivcs, and compelled to t·UI'll bllek. 1'bis cil'cnmstnncc o.lono obliged him to roturll by his formor route to Bndagl'y, nt which phlce he nnl'l'owly escnlled with his life. In this expedition, the position of Boosstl., Oll the banks of tho Niger, INTRODUCTION. xxxv was ohtained, and an approximate position of Ynool'ie, b('sidcs the course of the river between these places DlIring Clappel'ton's absence on his second journey :i\f njor Laing penetrated from 1'ripoli to Timbuctoo. TIc had alrcady escaped from an attack by a bnnd of I'Puaricks, (a roving people who inhabit the desert,) and lll\d departed from Tiwbuetoo on his way to Sego, when he WIJ,S inhumanly murdered b~r a Moorish lIlorchant, named Bnmbooshi, whom he had ongaged I\ S 1\ guido. Mn.jor Laing's papers have not renched Rug-land; bnt it may still be hoped that his observa· tions at Timbuctoo will not be finally lost. A Freuchmnn ntlmC'd Caillie has visitacl Timbuctoo siuco :Major Laing; but his visit has produced no addition to our knowledge of the Niger. Tho natives near Boossa seem to have but a \'ague notion of the course of the river helow that place. At 1'nbra . in ~ouf6e. Clapperton was told that "the Quorra ran into the sea behind Benin, at Funda; that the Nyffo people and thosc of Benin were the ~amc people; that B\luin paid tribute to Ny-ffc ." There is sorul'thing l'cmarkable in this; but Clap- llC'rtoll attributes it to the desire of the natives to iml're~s a I)trunger Witll an exalted opinion of tlleir l'ountry. The Sultan Bello himself belieyed that the rivor. ~ftC'r 'pussing lloo~sa OJld 'Vowow. entered the "'';-:l nt Fundu. 'rhe extent of this knowledge of the river, nnd how little their information wa~ cal. l'u1o.teu to t\ssbt tIll.' geographer, mAy bo seen by the fnllowin.g amusiug e:\trad from the explunntion to c2 IXTRODUCTIO)1'. Dollo's mnp, given in the Appendix, p, 333, of Clap- pcrton's book :-" Xow the great ri\'er Cowara eames, i'I,lld here. is its rcpl'csentation, This great ri,'cr is the lo.rgest in all tho territories of Ho.ussa; we know not of its SOUl'ce, 1101' of nny one who has seen it. It rushes nnd p1'eoipitnlcs itself t.hl'ough the country from left to right, nnd contains many islands, inha- bited by fishermen, herdslllou, husbandmen, and sottlers, As to tbo ynriety of its nuimals, birds, and fish, Lt is only known to the Lord Crentor; it has rocks and mountains, which brenk and shatter to piecos all vessels thi'lt nrc drivon againSt them; and its grent roaring unu noise, with the agitation of its' wnves, flstonish tho heat'cr, aIld terrifY the beholder; tlnd at tho sume time exhibit. tbe wOlHlerfn11)ower of tho Omnipotent CrcMol'." Slich Wi'lB tho idea of 130110'5 mnUtuu, ot' leil.med priest. And ngilin, nt p. 340, in "n tt'fiditionnl acoount. of differont nations of Afl'ion, ,. it is stntod thllt H tho riYer Kowa)'a runs through mO\luhlins, aud a great J\lilU)' woods tl1\d forosts, llUd has mounh\ins on the north nod cnst. This grcnt l'ivol' issues from the Mountn.in of the Moun; find whnt wo know of it is, that it comes fn)Ul St.lOkol\ to Kiga, to 1\:uoi, to Y 1\001'i, to Booi5S/.l. to Wnwtl, nml to Noofee,"-" bllt in that plnco there i& anothor 1'iv"l') which springs fl'Om Zirtnl\ to Ghoobel" to Zelfrn, to KOl'g, or£:.ort'I\, fillci thou ()ntcl'S Noofee; its 1)tllllO it! Kaduull)" Ol' tho KoodtlOnia. the extent to which tho Nigor seems to hoso beou known by tho natives, nltbough thc-y hnll heard of Fuuda. U'TRODUCTIO;S-. Various i\CCouuts of the riY(~r bad now been grn- dually collected from (lifl'erent sow-ces, which afforded grounds for fresh theories respecting its termination. rt' hat of Reiol{ard wns the favolU'ite, although Wang-ara was dispensed 'with; and tlU\t the riYer fell}nto the Gulf of Guinea wo:) pretty generally agreed. These ditrerent opinions appeared in se"eral publications, in which , as might bo expected, much error was mixed up wi.th the general eOlTeetness. That the riYer Uuwed into the sea at Ftmda Wt\S the grand point obtained, ::md where FunJn might be was of no importance. The only exception to these was the th\''\ory of Ml\jor Denlw,Ol, st]pported hy Sultan Bello's infol'mation, who continued its easterly COurse belo\y Boo5Sa, and ended it in Lake Tshad. This he doubtless considered tho more probable, as be says that ho found a 1'i,lo.r S1101'Y l'l.lming into that lake. Major Laing ended it in the rh'er Volta, Dear Accra; Clappcrton brought it to the sea near the mouth of tho Lugos, about half-way between Bt\dagry and the moutb of tho riYer Benin; while Reichard conclnded rightly that the riyor Benin was the outlet of the Niger. Otbers believed that the mouths of the uumerous rh'cl's between the Formosa and tho old Calebm' woro the outlets of this river; among whom were el\ptain ,Yo F. 'Yo Owen, Captain A. T. E . Vidal. Ilnd Captain B. M. Kelly, besides sc,Tcral other nuyal officcrs who bac1 been stationed on the const. The t\Ccounts of LivcrpoQl valm-oil traders fayourcd tho sa-IDe conclusion; nevertheless, no oue ll\TRODUCTIO~- . ha~ yet explored the river below Boos-sa,-all was uncertainty, and founded only on report and supposi- tion. A solitary attempt to reach it from the old Oalebar river was made in 1805, by a. Mr. Nicholls, who died shortly after lea"ing Duke Town; and this il:' rcmftl'kahle, from ha,'mg been the only one made .;. from that quarter. The unDe3:ed map Sel'\'eS to show· the extent of our knowledge of the river at this period. Park had laid down its course between Barumakoo and Silla in his first journey, and had found that its source was ill the same ruount.ninous range that gave rise to the ::;eucgul. 'rho. pm·t below Sinh. as far as Timbuctoo, was the result of intelligence obtained by him in his second journey. Beyond Timbuctoo, the only place Jmowil to be situated on it.s banks wus Doossa, the position of which had been determined by C1apperton, but the (lctuul course of the river between those places l'olUained entirely unknown. 1'he pnl't included within the dotted square is the result of the Landers' expedition; and. therefore. that part betweon l'aoo:ri; the extent of their jOUl'flcy, nnd Timbuctoo, is all that remains to be explored of the Nigel', There is no doubt of its continuity between those places, from the reports of Park, as the vessel be built at San. sanding was lost at Boossa, a.nd th.ey l1(wO b~n connected 1:)' the broken line merely to show the pro- bable COUl'SB of the river, Considering the relative position of t.he Scnegllland Nigel', it is no llit\tter of surprise. that they should have been confounded ,,"ith IN'I.lRODUCTIO~~ . :xxxix co.ch oth~r iu the early stages of history, aIt.hough thoy run in ollposite directions j for, evon at the pre- sent time, the ignorance of every onc who had been applied to concerning the riYer was the subject of remark by the last travellers. Such was tbe uncertain condition in which the COlll"Se of the Niger remained, when the happy idett ocourred of sonding the Messrs. :Lander to follow its cour£e below Boossa. By this step, the British goyernmcnt completed what it had begun, und accomplished, in a few months, the work of ages. Richn.rd Lander, well acquainted with the nature of such an undortaking, 'iTolunteered his services to per- form it. lIis iostrllctioQii, of which the following is a copy. wore given to bim i and baying been supplied with the articles, (a list of which will bo fOWld in the Appcudi.'\':,) accompanied by his -'!Jl'other J ohu, he set out on this interesting o)..-pedition. U Downing Sired, 31s1 December, 1829. "I am directed by Secretary Sir George Murray to acqua.int you, that he hM deemed it expe- dient to accept the ofror which you have made, to proceed to Africa., accompanied by your brother,* for the purpose of ascertaining the course of the Great River which was crossed by the late Captain Clap- perton, on his journey to Soecatoo i and a. passage hO\'ing beeu accol'dingly engaged for you and your .. Though the Gowrnmcnt refu~cd to aUtn\' him a salary, or make him ('\'Cn the rromi8(' of rownro, wy brotber t:agerly vollln~ teered to a>:cowpany UlC.--R. L. INTRODUCTION" , bi:-othcr on board of the Alertl merchant-vessel, which is proceeding to Cape-Coast Castle, on the western coast of Africa, 1 am t.o uesite that you will embark directly on board of that \"essel. "Ill the event of your falling in 'with any of his Majesty's ships of war all the (loast of Africa, pre· viously to your 81'riYfLI at Cape-Coast Castle, you will prevail on the moster to use every endcayour to speak with such ship of war, and to deliver to the officer commanding her tho letter of which you are the bearm', and which is too require. him to convey your. self Ilnd your brother to Badagry, to pl'esent you to the king, nnd to give you such assistance as may be required to enable you to set out on your journey. ';You should incllr as little deln)" as possible at Dachlgry, in order that, by reaching the hilly country. you may be DlO1'O secure from those feyers which are known to be prevalent on t.he low lands of the sca- const. You orc to proceed by the snme road as on a pn:wious occasion, il.S far ilS Katunga, unless you shall bo nb10 to find, on tlle northern !>ide of the mountains, a rond which will lend you to Fundn" on the Quorrfl or Niger. in which case you nrc to pro- ceed direct to Funda. If. hOWeYCI" it should be necessary to go as fay t\S Knhmgn. yon are to uso yO\I1' endenyours to prevail ell the chief of that country to assist you on your way to the Qnorrn, and with lho means of trnciug down. either by ltilld 01' wator. tho COnl'SO of that river as fur as Funda. (' 01\ ),o'lr arrh-al I'\t this place, you i\.I'C'" to bc Yory IN"'l'ltODUOTTON. xli pfll't.iC\uo..r in your obscl'Yations, so as to enable you to gi\'c a. correct sto..terocnt- "1st. vVhether any. and whnot rivers fall into the Quorra at 01' nea.l" that place, or ,,-hether the whole or tilly part of the Quom). turns to the eastward . .. 2nd. , ,'Thether there is at Funda, or in the neigh- hourhood, any lake or collection of waters, or large !lw(l.mp j in ,,,,hich case you aTe to go ronnd such In.ke or Mwomp, and bo very IJflrticulal' in oxmnining whether ouy rh-er flows into or out of it, and in. what direction it tlLkes its Course. . "3rd. If you should find that, at Funda, the Quorra continues to flow to the southward, you ere to follow it to the sea, whore, in this cnse, it may be presumed to empty its wators j but if it should be found to turn off to the eastwllIl'd, in which ca.se it will most pl'obtlbly fall into the Lake Tshad, you arc to follow its courso in that direction, ns far as you conceive you con Yonture to do, wi.th due regard to your personal safety, even to Dornou, ill whioh case it will be for you to detormine whether it mfly not be ad,·iso.ble to l'ot\lfll homo by tho way of Fezzau and Tripoli: if, hQw(}\Tcr. aftcr proceeding in all easterly course for somo disbluce, the "':01' should be found to turn off' towarda the south, you nre to follow it, as before, JOWl) to the SM. In short, after huYing once gained the banks of tho Quorm., either from Katungo.., or low~r down, you fire to follow its comso, if IJO iblc, to its tormiut\tioll, whOrO\"CI' thal may be. "Shaulll you be of opinion that the S~utan of xlii IN'l'RonUCTI0N • •" Youri Mn safoly be communicatecl with, you nre at liborty to sond your brother with a pl'~Sellt to that. chiof, to ask, in tho king'~ tlume, for certain books 01' pnpcrs which he is supposed to have, thnt belonged to the luto Mr. Park i but you ,nro not necessarily yourself to Wllit fol' your brother's return, but to pI'oooed in t.ho execution of tho maiu object of your lllission, to nscol'tnin tho COUl'se find termination of tho NigOl' . •• You nre to tuko eyory opportunity of SOlldillg dowu by tho c~nst It brief abstract of your proceedings and obsor\'ntio1l8, fmuisting the ben reI' with a note, dotting forth tho 1'own\'d 110 is to bnyo for his trouble, /Hld requesting nll,\' Bnglish porsoll, to whom it is pro~cntcd) to pay that. l'owilnl, 011 the fnith thnt it will he repnid him by tho Bl'itish Go\'cl'll1ucnt, .. For tho perfol'mance of this !l.cl'\'ico, you aro fnr~ nished with flU tho ndidcs whioh yon havo requil'cd for ,)'OUl' ]'OI'SOlllll conveniencQ, during .r0ur joul'Uey, tog(\thcl' with 11 Stlll\ of two Inmdl'cd doUal'$ in coin; l\Ud in cnso, upon your nl'l'i"nl at Dilcl:(gry. you should find it nbsolntc1y ncccssury to pro\'ide yourself with r\ t\H'thor $l\Pl,ly of <1011nI'9, Y'1u will be nt liberty to e1mw 1I1)on this dOl)alilUcnt for nuy sum not cxceeding t,hl'eo hlllld.l'0d doHtll's, ., Dudng tho onsuing ,)'01l1', tho smu of OUI) hUIl~ ~lrcd pouuds will ho l'nid to YOul' wifo, in \l\Uwtol'l.r llflymonts, f\l\d upon your rotul'U II gl'ntnity of 01\0 hundred I)O\\lIds will bo llniel to Y0\\r8(:.}f, .. All tho pnllol'S llnd ObS01'\'ntions which ,)'on shall lNTRODUCTION. xliii hriog bnuk with you, are to be delivered by y.0u at this office, llnd you will be entitled to receive any pecuniary consideration which IDay be obtained from tho publication of the account of your jom-ney. "I aUl, sir, &c., &c., (Signed) "R,. W. HAY. II T o Jl[r. ilichard L(mder." [Coll~- of the h:ttl'r anuded to ill tl,o fOH!·,;oing iustructions.] U Admirallg Office, "l3d Decemb{r, 1829. .. if, .. I am commanded by my Lords Commis- t.ioDert> of the Admiralty, to transmit to you n. copy of u lotter from _Mr. lIny. relu.tive to RO expedition into AJric{\, uudertaken by :Mr. Richnrd Lander and hi::l hrothcl'; nnd I am to ::lignify their Lordships' dir~ctions to you, to take meas\U"e~ for cOllYeJing :\J (,~Sl~. Ll\o(\e1' from Cape-Coast Castle to Badagry, to be there presented, as desired in Mr. lIay's lctter, to the authorities of the place. as versons in whose wclfure the British Government tnkes much interest. IlUU l\h,;o to pt"oYidc these travellers with any assist- ance of which thoy may stand in need, for the prosc~ ..: utlOIl of their tlUdcrtaking . .. I nm, sir, &0., &c., jj J. BA.llROW, " Tt) Commtw/tlre COLUK}\, C. n. . or the Commandi, •./ } Offit'et" (If (my of hit ~\(a_ j.·tty't Shil'_' U'hlch ...l {enr3. L.ISDEM. may } plnu luwing \)001) dt't01'mincd 0\\. I\fto)' I\hout IH\..If of the fiJ-st "l)hnno hntl 1)(10.\\ }Wintl'd. 1\ fow altN'Iltions bC'(,Ilmc 1\('('05$01',)'. I\\u\ the-so 1uwo hl'l~n lUndt' without depllrt. ing fl'om Ihl~ Sl'n~o il\tondl~l to bt' (,!Oln't')'t'll. lu 001\01\\S101l. fI "'0\'(1 0\' two mfly bl.' snid l'CSPl'(·t- INTRODUCTIOS. xlvii mg the map which hns been constructed from the journals. The accomplished surveyor ,,;U look in ,'nin along the list of the articles, with which the trrwollers were supplied, for the instl'llruents of his catlin£,: aud the man of science, to form his opinion nf it. need only be told tha.t a. common compass was nil they possessed to benefit geography, beyond the obs01'vation of their senses. EYen this trifling though important assistance was lost at Kirl'ee, below which plnce the sun became their only guide. Too much faith must not thcrefore he reposed in the various s~l'pcntiue courses of the river au the map, as it is neither warranted by the resources, nor the a.bility of tlw tl'lwollcrs. The map, in its most favourable lloint (If vie'w. can be considered only as flo sketch of thC' ri\'cr authenticated by llcrsonal obsenation. "hich will serre to assist future tnl.Yeliers, froOl who~e superior o.ttainmcnts something nearer ap- pl'onching to gcogrllphical precision lUay be c:\-pected. En,)1l undcr the~c circumstances, the prcsent travel- ll'~ will always dcriyc Illllplo wtisfaction in reftect- ill~ that the:-- hu\'~ son-cd as lJioncel':! of African dis· A. B. B. ll.iat of l~latM. VOL r. Porlrnil of Richard Landor Fr~nti8piece. Map of the Quorra, Scnogal, (mil GnDlhi~. Rivers xl VOL. If. Portr..it of John lAnder Frontispiece. Tho Foti.h,·at PatasLie 6S NouffioCnnoo 85 "Mount Kc$.'l 92 Bnnka of the Quorf'.!. 182 Eboo Cnnoe 289 JOURNAL. CHAPTER I. Dt'['4rlurc from Engll\nd_Ani\'1\l at Capo COlI.8t-Ana.mll,ho(l_ AC4:I\\-Badagry. \YE embarked from Portsmouth on the 9th January. 1830. in tJlO brig Alert, Tyson master, for Cape- 0008t Cnstle, wher~ we n.rriycd on the 22d of the fol- lowing month, having had a quick, but boisterous nn- tl'fl\h,\ l\IlNnicii. \VIll'u this unfortuunto lllnll Wn,R tolwlI priMuor, hiA right hand WtlN irulll('dilllely nnikd to hiM hend, I\l\d tho othor lopped ott' liko a twig, In lhie llltHU10r ho Wft~ p '\l'odcd through tho town, and l~~lO~l·d to tho vil'''' of the peopl!), whose eurioflity hl~lIlg l4utiated, llombnnt'c's ht:'ad Wfti'l i\t longth ~C'vored from hi~ Ilhouhll.'n., and bt:'ing ty of pl'l·.~N\I~, mo!;t of them WI') mluo.hl(', thtlt hl\ll bCl'1l mlldl~ him by Co.pttun elupP,'rtou. ond b) Europt.nn ffit'l"l,hantK nnd trntl(,fH in .IJ!tl\"l'" TIl!' t:'hil,f I\I\U hi~ WOllll'll cSCtlPl'll with tlilnclIll, I'rom thQ ~onflngro.tion; hut tl\i it Wl\;t thl' l.'u:;h)1U 'to kel~l) lho Ulul'lkuts and olhur t1l'C~QrUlS con· STAY AT DADAGRY. st.antly loaded, their COD tents wcre discharged int.o the Doilies and legs of those indi,..jduals that had :Hocked to the BpOt on the first alarm. The :Hilmes spread .. with astonishing rapidity, notwithstanding every ex- ertion, and ended ill the destruct.ion of a great part of the town. This accounted in some measure for the sad and grievous e).:pression so strongly depicted on the chief's countenance, but still another and more powerful reason had doubtless influenced him OD this occasion. On returning to our residence a. number of " princi- pal men," as they style themselves, were introduced, to compliment us on coming to their country, although their true and only motive for visiting our quarters was the expectation of obtaining rum, which is the groat object of a.ttraction to all of them. We ha.ve been annoyed during the better part of this day by a tribe of ragged beggars, whose importunity is really disgusting; and the number of old fat-hended and pot-bcllied men, and skinny, flap-eared women of the lnst century, has been immense. To these garrulous ladies and gentlemen hn:ve we been obliged to laugh and talk, and shake hands nnd craok fingers, and bend our bodies and bow our hends, and placo our hands with solem nity on our heads and breast-s; make pre- BOllts, and cringe, fawn, and flatter up to the present moment, which is past bed-time. V\'e ha,yc not-in- deed had a moment's relaxation from t.1iis GxcessivG fo.tiguo; and the consideration that we have been waited on by the chief's eldest son has been forgotten in the mortifying inconveniences to which we haye been subjected. Ha.d Job, amongst his other trials, been exposed to tho hOl'TOJ'S of an intennina.ble African palil.ve)'. his patience most hO,\'o forsaken him. For my own part, I am of opinion that I sbo.11 never be a genoml STAY AT BADAGRY. fosouritc with this eyer.grinning and loquacious people. If I laugh-and laugh I most certainly must-it is doue against my inclination, and consequently with a vary bad grace. For the first fiye years of my life, I h£lNe beon told that I was never eyen seen to smile j Ilnd since that period, Heaven knows, my merriment has been confined to particular and e.'\."traordillnry occasions only. H ow, then, is it possible that I can ho grinning Bud playing the fool from morning to night. posit.ively without any just incentive to do so, and sweltering at tbe same time \Wdol' a sun tbat causes my body to burn with intense hcat, giving it tho appearanco of shrivelled parchment ? Fortu· lIately. these savages-for savages they most certainly arc in tho fullest extent of the word-cannot distin- guish between renl and fictitious joy; and although I Wl\S \'excd at heart, und wished them oJl at tho bottom of the Red Sea, or somewhere else, I have overy reason to believo that my forced attempts to }lleaso the natives h[wc so far been successful, and that 1 have obtained tho reputation., which I certainly do not dcserye, of being one of the pleasnntest illld best-tempored persons in the ,yorld. Que of the Fetish·mon has just sent us a. present of 0. duck, fully as large l\ S an English goose j but as the fellow expects ten times its "ruue in return, it is 00 proof, I think, of tho bone"olellce of his dispo- sitiou. Last night wo were obliged to station armed Ulell around our house, for the purpose of protecting our goods from the rapacity of a. multitude of thioves that infest th.is plnce. and who display the grea.test ~unning imoginuble to ingratiate themsclycs into our fa"our. 'Va (\TOSO unrefreshed tbis moming. at day- break- the noise of children crying, the firing of guns, and the discordant sound of drums and horns, pNrcntiug u.s from oujoyiog tho sweetuess of repose, 10 STAY AT nADAORY. §O infinitely desirable after a long day spent in n l"outine of tiresome ceremony and etiquette. 11'larch 24th.-One of the chief's messengers, who is a HaU8sa Mnllam, * or priest, presented himself at the door of our house this morning. followed by 8. large and handsome spotted sheep from his native COtUltry, whose neck was adorned with little bells, which made 0. pretty jingling noise. "Te were much prepossessed in this man's favour, by the colmness and serenity of his countenance, and the modesty, or rather timidity. of his manners. He was dressed in the Hun~e. Although his appenrance is extremely bo)~sh,oho hus n.h.·cady three wives, and is the father of t.wo children. His front teeth arc filed toO a. point, • Malitl.D1 signific.s "lco.rnod."- Clappcrlon. STAY AT BADAGRY. 11 after the manner of the Lagos people; but notwith- standing this disadvantage, his features bear less mo.rks of ferocity 'than we have observed in the coun- tenance of anyone of his countrymen, while his general deportment is infinitely more pleasing and humble than theirs. ,"Yhen asked whether, if it were in his power to de so, he would injure us two, or any European that might hereafter visit Badagry, he mnde no reply, but silently appron.ched our seat, and faJling on his knees at our feet, he pressed me 'with eager- ness to his soft naked bosom, and affectionately kissed my haud. I thought that language and expression would not have been haJ.f so eloquent as this. "Te have heard to-day that peace has been esta- blished between Porto Nm~o and .Badagry. The messenger that brought this agreeable news has present,ed Adoolcy with three slaves, from his master, the chief of tho fOrInoo.' state, as a token that it is to be lasting. This distracted country is ever at war with her neighbours, and consequently is always in il state of agit.ation a:nd poverty. Provisions are, from the sallie cause, extremely scarce u,nd dcal'. Since our conference with ~the chief on Tuesday we hlllve learned, with surprise 'and sorrow, tha.t a pa.rty of the populace have e)..-pressed themselves decidedly hostile to our projects, and that its leaders nre COD- tinually with Adooley, using all their influence, a.nd exercising nll their cunning, in order to awaken his slumbering jealousy. They endeavour to persuade him to demand, ere he grants us leave to pass through his country, a sum of money which they are all aware it is not in our power to pay, and therefore they imagine we shull be compelled to abandon the undertaking. The first. intimation we received of the effect of the~ insmut1tions on tho mind of the chief was brought \\5 this morning, by one who pronounces himself 12 STAY AT B,u)AGRY. 'to be on H our side." This man assured us, with an ominous visage, that Adooley had declared, in the hearing of all the people, tha.t the coat we had given him was intended for Q, boy, lLod not a ma.n ; it \,·a8 therefore unworthy his acceptance as a. king, and be considered that we meant to insult hiin. The coot alluded to by Adooley is, indeed, extremely old- fashioned, and belonged to a surgeon in the na.ry about twenty yen,rs ago. notwithstanding which it is no\y almost as good a.s new, and was made very showy by the addition of a pair of tarnished gold epaulets. ' Nor can anything be cle..'\rer than that nn enemy of ours has been striying to render the chief discontented and mistrustful, since nothing wn·s so gladly received as this 'Tcry coat two days ago. To counteract the efforts of the malicious, we have been unusually busy to-da.y in sounding the disposition of those ~rho, we are inclined to believe, from the fondness they erince for our flllll, nre favourable to our intentions and devoted to our interests. Two mulattoes reside in the town, one of whom. by name Hooper, a.cis as interpreter to Adooley, and shares Do good deal of his confidence. He was born at Calle-Ooast Castle, in 1780, and was for many years a soldier in the .A.fricBll corps. His father was an Englishman) and he boasts of being a British subject. He is excessively vain of his origin; yet he is the most oon'firmed drunkard alive, always getting intori- cated before breakfast. and remaining in a soaking state, aU day long. This does not, howm'er, make hUn regardless of his personal interests, to which. on the contrary. he· is over oliye. and indeed sacrifices 6\'ery other feeling. The other mulatto can read aud write English tolerably well, haying received his oducation at Sierra Leone; he is a slo.ye to Adooley. and is almost as bad as Hooper as to.. drinking. ST.\ Y AT BADAGRL ]3 These political advisers of the chief we have had littJe difficulty in bribing over to our interests: we IH~ve likewise been tampering 'with several native chiefa. apparently with equal success. Unfortunately. very one styles himself l\- great and powerful man, and old Hooper himself culls 8 host of ragged scoundrels e, before he left home, to be in an ill bUD;lour with us-, nnd perhaps he had treated himself with an extra dram for the occasion. This great bully introduced himself into our dwelling,- his huge round face in. flamed with scorn, anger, nnd • potations deep.' He drank with even more avidity than his countrymen, but the liquor produced no good impression on him, serving rather to increase his dissatisfaction o.nd choler. He begged everything be sn·w; and when we had gratified him to the best of our power, he began to be "ery abusive and noisy. He said he was convinced we had come into the country "ith no good intentions, and accused us of deceit and insincerity in our professions; or, in plainer terms, that we had been guilty of a direct falsehood in st.ating that we had no othOl' mot,ivc for undertaking t.he journey than to recover the papers of Mr. Park at yaoorie. He was assured that we were afraid to tell the true reason for leaYing our own country. 'Ve withstood his im'ecti"es with tolerable composure, and the dis. graceful old fellow left us in (l. pet, about half an hour after his an-ivaI. It is really a discouraging reflection, that, notwith- standing the sacrifices we have made of all priYate feeling and personal comfort for tho purpose of eOD- ciJjating the good opinion of the people here,-the coust.lmt fatigue and ineom'enienca to which we have been subjected,-the lit.tle art-s we have pract.ised,- th~ forced Inughter,-tbe unnatural grin,-tbe never· ending shaking of hands, &0., &0., besides the dismal noises Il'nd unsa,voury smells to wmch OU1" orgnns tun-a been exposed; still some scoundrels nre to be foulld hn.r(l~ned against us by hatred and prejudice, and so ungrateful for all our gifts and attentions, as to taka n delight in poisoning t.he minds of the people ~'fAr AT DAj)AGRT. 23 against 'Us, by publicly asserting thn.t we are English ~pies, and making use of other inventions equally falso and mo.1icious. Pitiable, indeed, must the lot of that IDo.n be, who is obliged to drag on a year of ex- istence in so miserable a place as this. Nevertheless, we noxa in hoolth and spirits, and perhaps feel a secret pride in being able to subdue our rising dissatisfaction, und in overcoming difficulties which, at a first glance, seemed insurmountable. By the blessing of Beayen, we shall proceed prosperously in our undert.aking; for in the Divine goodness do we alone repose all our confidence and hopes of success. ,Vo lllay say that plcasW'c £Iud enjoyment have accompanied us hither. The clearness of the sky is pleasant, and its brilliancy -the softness of the moon, the twinkling brightness of t.he stn.rs, and the silence of night-the waubling auJ tho flight of birds, tho hum of insects, and' t·he varied and luxuriant aspect. of beautiful Nature-are all cha.rming to us. And what on earth can be more soothing or delightful than thoughts of home and kindred, a.nd anticipations of a holier and more glo- rious existence? These are true pleasures, of which the barbarians cannot deprive us. fro-do.y. the Fo.st of the Rhnmndnll ends; and to~ Dlotl'ow'will be held as n holiday by the Moha.mmednns of thc plnco. &turda!l, Mat'ell 27tJl.-The noise a.nd ja.rgon of our guests pursue us evon in sleep, and our dreams n.rc disturbed by fancied pal:wers. which are more unpleasant and vexatious, if possible, in their effect>s, thou real ODes. Eurly this morning we were roused from oue of these painful slumbers to listen to the dismal yell of the hyooul1. the shrill crowing of cocks, the hum of night~flies a.nd mosquitoes, and the hoarse cruntry) cwo of tile intelil>l' ef Africa. 32 STAt" AT BADAGRY. .of worked thread, dyed in indigo, encircled it below the natural hair, which seemed by it.s tightness and closeness to have been glued fast to the skin. This young Jenna womnn is by faf the most interesting, poth in face and form, of any we have seen since our landing. nnd her prettiness is rendered more engaging by her retiring modesty and perfect artlessness of manners, wIDeh, whether observed in black or white, nre sure to command the csteem and reverence of the other sex. Her eyelids wero stained with a bluish. black powder, which is the smue kind of substance, I have no doubt, as that described jn a note in Mr. Beckford's • Vatlck.' Her person was excessively clean, aud her apparel flowing, neat, and graceful. Before taking leaNG, the girl's umvorthy companion infonned us thot her proMge was IDtllTied; but that Its her husband was left behind nt Jennn, she would pl'El\'nil 011 her to yisit u~ in the evening after sunset. Of course we expressed ow' nbhon'ence of the l)roposal, and were really grieved to reflect tho.t with so much meekness, innocence, modesty, and beauty, our timid friend should bo exposed to tho wiles of a crafty and wicked womnn. ,Yo have longed to discoycr a solitary ",irlne linger- ing amongst the natives of this plnee, but ns yet our search hns been ineftectua1. As n. contrnst to tho youthful individual described above, no old withered womnn entered our residence iu ' the cvening, and began professing the most UD- bowlded n/fcetion for my brother nnd self. She ha.d drunk so much rUlll that she could scarcoly stnnd j wus tho owner of n. most forbidding countenance; and fom of ber front teeth had disappenred from her upper jaw, wbich caused a aingulur and wSt\greeable indention of the upper lip. 'Vo were disgusted with tho nppeurnuce aud bateful fumilinrity of this ,nnciont. STAY AT DADAGRY. 33 hng, who had thus paid so ill n. compliment to our \'fuuty, nne1 subsequently we forced her ont of the )lnT{1 without any ceremony. ,"Yo shot a hawk this e,'erung which wns hovering over our house, at the request of several of the Dot,,'es, who nte the body of the bird, but presen'cd its head 1\l1d claws, to render them "keen of eye and swift of foot. " The king will not allow us to go to J enna by the nearest beaten path, on the plea that, as sncred fotish land would lie in our wny, we should die the moment we should trend upon it. Tuesdoy, llJat'ch 30th.-Tho occurrences of this day may be relatcd in ,'ery few words. The pleasantcst news wo hear, is the fnct of the king of Jeona. having arri.Yetl at that town from K o.tungn. His messenger nrriveli here this morning, and came toO see us in tho nfternoon, accompanicd by a friend. We regnled hiro. with a glass of rum, nccordiDg to our general custom, the first mouthful whereof he squirted from his OWll into the lllouth of his associate, and vice versa. This is the first time we have ritnessed this dirty nnd disgusting practice. The chief sent for us again dus afternoon, and summed up the measure of his exorbitant dcmo.nds, by requesting n gun-boat, with a hlUldred mon from England, and no few common tobacco-pipes for his own lll'iYate use. 'Ye could easily gh-e l\ bill for the former; but the latter we Jllrcd not part with at fl.ny risk, because, considering the long journey before us, we are cominced we ha,'e nothing to spnN; iudced. it is our opinion that the prescuts ·will nll be exhausted long before it be com- pleted. 'Yith the same facility we bnyc ,rritten n puper for forty ounces of gold to be distributed l\lllOUg~t the chief of English Town and the rest of our ptlrtisnn:s. 'Ye had adjustcd these little matters to tho Illlplll'cut s;'\tisfl\ction of all parties, when wo were '\'(\1,.1. D 34 STAY AT BA.DAGRY. nlOst agreeably surprised by an nssurance from the chief that we shaH quit this place to-morrow afternoon with the ncwly-arri\'ed Jenna. messenger. 'Ve are accordingly on the qu.i vice in getting everything in a state of forwardness for aQl' departW'c; nor can we J)(~lp ,,;shing, for the sake of our credit, that we may never meet such needy and importunate friends as hu,e pestered us since ow' residence in this toW'll. The soil of Badtigry consists of a. layer of :fine whitish sand over loam, clay, and enrth. The sand is so soft and deep. that no one can walk on it without considcl·a.ble labour and difficulty. The natives pro- cure the necessaries of life chiefly by fishing, aDd the cultivation of the yam and Indian corn. In the former employment they usc nets and spenrs, and Jikel\;se earthen pots, which they bait with the palm nut. These novel instruments nre fltrmshecl with small apertures, not wilikc those of a comlllon wire mo~e-tmp. Oranges, limes, cocoa-nuts, plant-nins, and bfI.Donas, are produced in abundance in the neighbourhood. 'rho better sort of people are possessed of a smnH kind of bullock, with sheep, goats, and poultry; the chief himself is (l, drover and butcher, and when in wnnt of moncy, ho orders one of his bullooks to be sl tcred and publicly sold in the market. The dw the inhnbitant-s aro neatly constructed of fl1ld thatched with palm lel\ against the chief, "bam he denominated a usurper j nod vehemently called upon KL"'G OP B~\l)AGnY. 3, his friends to join him in disputing his authority, and endon,volU' to divest him of his power and consequence. All the slaves of his deceased parent, a.mongst whom was n. great number of Ha.ussa. MalInms; all who bore any personal dislike to the ruling chief, or wOre discontented a.t his form of government j those who preft1l'red Adooley, and the discontented of all ranks, formed themselves into a strong body, and resolved to support the pretensions of their favourite. The brothers agreed to decide the quarrel by the sword , und hDx ing come to a. general engagement, tho partisans of tho younger were completely routed, and fled with their leuder before the yictorious arms of tho opposing party. l"cacing the result of this oontest, Adoolo)" with n. spirit of filinl piety, which is not rare amongst ~tWllges, and is truly noble, dug out of the earth, wherein it had been deposited, the skull of his father, and took it along with him in his fiight, in order that it might not be dishonoured in ills absence; for he loved his father with extraordinary tenderness. and cherished hi13 memory as dea.rly as his own life. The headless body of the venerable chief, like those of his anceswrs, had been sent to Benin l in order tha.t hi~ bones might adorn the sacred temple a.t tholt place, 3grecably to an ancient and respected custom which has eyor been religiousl ~ conformed to olnd tena.ciously hold by tho Lngos people. But Adooley displayed at the sumo timo anothor beautiful trait of piety and filil\l tenderness. At the period of his defeat he hnd au aged a.nd infirm mother liring. and her he deter. mined to take with him, let the consequences be what they might. 'Yith his accustomed foresight, he had pre\>iou.sly U\t\do a kind of cage or boxl in case there shQuld bo u. necessity for removing her. His father'!! skull haying been disinterred and seemed. he implored ADOOLEY, bis mother to tnke immediate advantage of this cage, as the only" means' of escaping with life, She ,\>il- lingly acceded to her son's request, and was berne off on the shoulders of fow' slaves, to a village not far di stant from Lagos, accompanied by Adooley, with his fugitive train, where they imagined them- selves secure from fur ther molestation. In this opinion, howel-'er, they were deceil·cd; for the more fortullat~ chief, suspicious of his brother's intent ions, and dreading his influencc, would not suffer him long to remnin in peace, but drove him out soon after, and hunted him from place to place like a wl1d beast. In this manner, retreating from his brother, he at last reached the flourishing town of Bo.dagry; and being quite wearied with his exertions and fatigues, and di'sbenrteued by his misfortunes, he set do\Yll his. belol'ed mother on the grass, nnd began to weep by her side. The principal people of tho town were well acquainted with his circumstances, and, admiring the nobleness of his sentiments, they not only pitied him, but resolved to protect nud befriend him to the last. For this purpose they presently invited him t.o attend n council which thoy had hastily formed. 'When ill the midst of them, perceiving tears falling fust down his cheeks. they asked him why he wept so? "Foolish boy!" sa,id they, "wipe Ilwny those tears, for they are un,,'orthy of you, and show your- self 0. Ulan nnel n. prince. From this moment we ndopt you our chief; you shlllliend us on to war, and we will fight against yom brother. nnd either prevail over h iUl or l)etish. Here your mother may dwell in safety, and here yOUl' father's skull shall be reverenced as it ought to be. Come, theu. lay aside your fears, i\nd lend liS on ngainst yoW' enemies." These were in the bush, and hovering ncar Dnddgl'y, wheu Adooley KIXG OF DAD.\GRY. 39 (l,nd his generous friends sallied out against them. The fighting, 01' ra.thcr skir)llishiug, lasted mau)' days; and lllauy people, it is said, were slain on both Rides. But the advantilge wa.s decidedly in favour of the Bndagrinns, whose superior knowledge of the {Ustl'ict, and tho secret paths of the wood, was of considerable seryice to them, enabling them to lie in Ilmbush and attack their enemies by surprise. The Lagos peopla at length gave up the unequal contest in despair, and l'etlU'lled to their own country. Adooiey was t.hus left iu quiet possession of au important o.nd inftueutio.l toml, which declared itself independent of Lngos for eyer. Since then, various tmsuccessful attempts have been made to compel the Bndagl'ians to return to their allegiance. The latter. ho\re"er, have bruvoly defended their rights, and in consequence thQir inuependency ha:3 been i\ckllowledged by the . nei,ghbouring tribes. In the year 1829, the warlike chief of Lagos died; /lIud AdooIoy, concei\ing it to bt" a favourable oppor- tunity for tho rc-assertion of his claims to the vacant .. stool," as it is called, determined to do so, and u!:Isemblcd his fnithful Bad:igrians for the purpose of making au attack on his na.tiye tOWD. lIe imagined that, L\S his b\"'Othe.r was doad, he should experience little opposition from his countrymen; but he soon d.i:dco,~ercd that he had fin'med au erroneous opinion, for almost at his Ye)'y outset he met with 0. stout resistance. IIis brothel' had loft un infant son, and him the people declared to be the legitimate heir, and unanimously rosoh-cd to sUllport. Tho snnguine im"llders were repulsed and entirelJ defeated. notwithstanding their tried brayery and uttor contempt of dUllgcr, t\nJ were forced to rctw'n home in confusion, without haying accomplished t\ny~ thing. In th.is unfortunate expedition Borubancc ADOOLEY, R'ud all the principal wll.rriol's WCl'C slain, A similar nttcllll)t has sincc bccn made on Lagos morc than oncc, nnd with a similar rcsult, On our nrrival o.t Bad.1gl'y, Adooloy was but just recovering from the etfects of theso various mortifications nnd othor disns- tel'S i nnd, singular enough, he has hnd the artfnmess, as wo have bofore snid, of laying tho whole blame of thom to his htwing: pOl'mitted the last African mission to pass through his torritOl'ies, contrary to tho wishes of his neighbours, and BlOse who were int-erested in tho matter. J ustico is not uufreqnently administered at Bucl;(gry by mcans of fI. IIn'ge wooden cap. having tbree corners, which is Vlo.ced on the head of u. culprit at the period of his oxamination, This fantastic work ofll1ochnnism, no doubt by tho structure of intornnl spriugs, mny be mado to movo and shako without auy visible agent, ou tho samo l)rinoiplo as tho enchanted 1.'llrk, or any MhoI' figm'o in our puppet-shows, It is believed tho llative priests alono uro in tho SCOl'ct, When this (lap is obseJ'ved to shake whilst on tho hend of n snspected parson, ho is condemned without further ovidence being required j but, sllould it remain without flny pereoptible motioll, his innocence is nppl\l'Ont, Md ho is forthwith tlcquittcd. Tho fame of this wonderful cnp makes (\. great fuss in the tOWll, tlnd n8 lUl\Uy lllfU'\'cllous stories tWO told of it here ns woro )'alatod in Englamd tt oentury or two ngo of the famous hl'nz.tm hend of Rogel' 13l\oon, A l'ospootn..blo 1I1iln, tho chiof of Fronoh Town, was triod by the o1'clotl.1 of the 0(\1) 1\ short timo since. fol' lH1.Yiug) it wus alloged, noooptod u bl'ibo of tho Lagos ohieftain to destroy A(looloy by poison, The fntnl Olll) WI\S no 800001' Imt on hm head tlum it wns obsorved to moyo slight.ly, tUld then to become lUore "ialontly tlgitated. 1.'ho cl'lmiunl felt its mot~ou. aod DEPARTURE PROM BADAGRY. 41 WQS torrmed to such a degree, that he fell down in a swoon. On awakening, he confessed his guilt, and implored forghTeness, wbieh was granted him by Adooley, because, it was said, of his sorrow and contriti~n, but really, no doubt, of his birth and connexions. Durin". Om' stay at Bo.d:igry, the thennometer of Fnlrreuh~it. has ranged between 860 and 940 in our hut, being oftener stationary nearer the latter tban the former. C'IIAPTER II. Dllpi:mllro from BruMgry_ Pan Ibrollgh Wow-Sngbu-Bruhn- Soo.t6-Biujic--LIl..'\too-Llil'l'o to J~ll.oa. Tuesdal/, l1farcll 318(.-'''e bade adieu to the chief of Bad.igl':Y ill good time this morning, and during the day packed up nll our things ready for our departure. 'Y c repn.ircd to the banks of the river at sun-set, expecting to find a canoe wwch Adooley had promised should be sent there for our use; but having waited above two hours, and finding it (lid not arriYe, we plnced the goods in n"\'"o smaller canoes, which were l;ying on tho beach. The::;e SOOIl proved to be lea.ky. llud t\~ no other resource was at hand, we were fain to "tlit as pu.ticntly as we coul(l for the canoe promised u~. E'Terything betrayed the luk\}wa.rmncss und indif- feNnco of the chief who hud received so much from us, llnd who e:\.'pected so much more j but we hud nn~wered his purp~. and now he took no further notice of us. In two hours morc Hooper made hi::; :lppCu.ranec ill Adooley's war cunoe, which he had pl'\;o\'t)iled on him to lend us. This was placed directly botw('on the two others, tlud thcir contents speedily tn\l\,:;;t'..;-rreu into it. It was between teu and eleven 42 DEPARTURE FRO::U DADAGRY. 'o'clock at night when we were fairly lalmched out into the body of the ri"er. The canoe was above forty feet. in length; it was 1ll'opelied through the water by poles instead of paddles, and moved slowly and silently along. It was a clear and lovely night i the moon shone glor.ious "as a silver shield;" and reflecting t,he starry finnament on the unruflled surface of the water, the real concave of heaven, with it-s reDerion, seemed to form a perfect world. The scenery on the borders of the river appenred wild and striking, though not magnificent. In the delicious moonshine it wus far from uninteresting. The banks were lqw, and partially cm'(wed with stunted trees; but a slave- factory and a fetish hut were the only buildings we observed on t.hem. vVe could not help admiring at some distance nllead of OlU' cauoe, when the ,'rindiugs of the river would permit, a noble and solitary palro- tree, with its lofty branches bending over the water's edge; to us it was not unlike a majestical plume of feathers, nod(ting over the head of a beautiful lady. Proceeding about ten miles in a westerly direction, we suddenly turned up a. bl'anchjoining the river from the northward, passing on our left the village of Bawie, at which Captain Chl.llperton lauded. 'Ve SD.W ser:eral small islands, covered with rank gl'OSS, interspersed in different parts of the river. They arc inhabited. by myriads of frogs, whose noise is more hoarse nnd stunning than ever proceeded from any rookery in Christendom. As we went up the rivcr, our canoe- lUen spoke to their priests, wbo were imisible to us, in a most sepulchral tone of voice, nnd were answered in the sallle unearthly and doleful mauner. These sounds formed oW'night'ssereonde. Notwithstanding the novelty of out' situation and the interest wo took in the objccts whioh sUl'l'ollllded us, I ,,·as overcome by DEPARtURE FROll BAD~\GRY. 43 f!ltigue, find wrapping a flannel l of tl't:'os. no bigger than a mao's leg, T(,1ll1l'l'(,lt slippery with mud. in safety to the opposite side. ~\Jthough he walked. as fast Illid with as much .. Du"l ... n~ of nll kinds nrc innr1:\bl \" ('aniNi on the head 1,\' the ~"I.l" vf ¥a.rrioo, and the lIativea o'f V1!.riOUI olher countries in \rn('3. 48 ARnrv AL AT UASITA. ease CIS his compo.llions, he did not Jay me down for twenty minutes, the s'lYnmp being, as nearly as we could guess, n full quarter of a mile in length. 'Vo then walked to a small village called B4sha; whence, without stopping, we continued our journey. nnd about four in the nfternoon, passed through anot.her yillnge. somcwhn,t larger tho..u the former, which is called S6ato. nerc we found oursch'cs so much exhausted with o"Ol'~fntiguo nnd wnnt of food, thnt we werc compelled to sit down and rest u. while; and here (( Nnkcd you~hs Imd p:untcd chiefs admiro Our speech, O\\r colour, nod our stro.ngo o.ttiro." But they nre a vory lillCQlU't.eous and clownish racc, and tensed us so much with their rudeness and begging propeI)sit,ies, that we were glad to bo rid of them by set.ting out. ngaill. Hnying passed two other swamps in the samo manuol' us wo had dono bofore, wo wero completely tired, nud could go no farther; for we bnd bceu walking nU ftl'tUl'O he promised to totum Ou\' visit , 00 le(wing tho l>lace. h o followed lIS, though \vithont our knowledge ; but finding thot we wlllked ftlstel' tb(\ll ho, and thnt ho could uot kO(1) paco with us (for ho is a bulky mon), bo hostily doslmtched 0 messonger to inforlll us. that .kioO's il.lwnys wnl];: wit.h n slow nn(1 lUonslll'ed step. Ilud? that our stl!ides being long Illld vulgnr. ho would thank us to 105$on om' speed. and stop awhilo to ounblo him to como til) with us, whioh, of coursOl we agl'octl to with gl'eitt good-will, A fow minutes nftor this ho l'ollchod our houso, dl'essod in n tobe of g roen siUt doml\sk, YOl')' rich nnd showy, and n skull-cap nu\do of purplo 1\1\(\ crimson volvot. With the excep- tion of alrings- of white bends, whioh oneircled his tWill S, ho \\$od no porsoUlll o\'llnmouts. 11~ l'elUl\IDCd chntting with us n lOllS' timo. DEPARTURE FROY BIDJIE . 53 Mnny of the women of Bidjie have the :8esh on t heir foreheads r1sen in tho shape of marbles, and their cheeks similarly cut up and defonned. The lobos of theil' ears nre likewise pierced, and the holes madc surprisingly large, for the insortion of pieces of i\'oI'Y nnd wood into them, which is a prc¥aHing fashion with all ranks, 'Ye read the cbureh-sen;ce this morning, agreoably to our general custom, The nati,'cs, of whoso sooiety we have ne,'er been o,ble to rid ourselves, seemed to attach great awe and reve- ronco to our form of worship, for wo had made them understand what we were going about, which induced thorn to ray a high degree of silent attention to the ceremony, and set at rest, for the time, that l>eculinr continuous laugh by which they nrc distinguished from their neighbours. In the afternoon, or as the natives express it, "when the sun }lad lost 11i8 strength," wo departed from the town of Bfdjie. ltceompanied by its good-natured, happy govemor. Eln(ll'euchcd the banks of a rivuJr-t, calle(l Yow, in a \'ery few minutes. Butterflies were here more nume- rOUS than can bo imagined; millions of them :8uttered round ns , ond literally hid from our sight ever;ytlting but their own vnriegnted and beautiful wings. lIerc, on the banks of the Yo,v, we took a Inst farowell of the affectionate old chief, who implored the .. Great GO\l ., to bless us; and as tho canoes in which we had embarked moyed from the spot, a loud. long luugh. with clapping of hands frolll the lower classes, c\'iuccd tho satisfaction they felt at having seen us, llnd their henrty wishes for our welfare. The Yow i'l au c:drclllcir un-rrow rlnilct. not morc than n few f ...' et in breadth, Illld :8ows in a serpentine direction through a flnt country, eoyered with rushes and tall l'unk gl'n~, CrocOtliles are said to resort here ill g1't~tl.t numbers i the low bark or growl of these xapn- 5~ nEURrURE FROM BIDJIE. clous- arumats we bearo (listinctly, and almost close to us. After we bad been pushed along against t.he stream. by poles for five or six miles, between four and five o'clock in thc afternoon we landed at a. nnrrow creek, which ran n little way into a thick and gloomy forest. W c bad not proceeded more than two bunw'ed yards on the pathway, when we were met by a messenger from J enna, ""bo informed us that t.he' ovroers of all the horses in the town had rode out to welcome their chief, a-nd escort him to his residence, 50 that we should be obliged to \yalk the remainder of the way. A few minutes oIily had elapsed, however, from this time before "we descried a horse approaching-us ill the path. This was R goodly sight to us, who were already becoming wearied and sore "ith the exertions we. had made during the day, for we did not reflect a moment that. the animal might not, after ail, be for our use. However, we soou met, and the rider immediately declared that he Itnd left J enna purposely on our accoWlt. The horse's head was loaded with charms and fet.ishes, enveloped in pieces of red and blue cloth. His saddle was of H.1tus..~ manutnctw'e, and uncommonly neat; in t.I\e interior such an nrticle is used only'by the principal people) j and his bridle also was of curious workmanship. The horseman had an ext,ra,'ngnnt idca. of his own consequence, and seemed n. prodigious boaster. He wore nbuudnnce of clothing, most of which was superfluous j but it mnde him excessively vnin. H e informecl us that he had boon despatched by the King of J enna to meet us in the pn tb, and to escort us to the capital ; but undorstanding that Adooley had supplied us with horses, he did not COI1- ceivo it necessary to send others. The messenger. h.owever, diSlllOlllltcd, and offered us llis horse; and my brother IIDd self agreed to ride him in turus. \Yo ARRrVAL AT LAATOO. 55 thorofore iruntediately proceeded, and tra.versed a rich fluel varied country, abo\mdiug plentifully with 'wood and water. A fine red sand coyered the pathway! which we fonnd to be in much better condition than nny we bad bofore seen. Sometimes it winded through an open, levol troct of fine g rauing It\:nd j and then again it di\~erged through forests so thick a.nd deep, that thc light of the moon, which had arisen, was UlHlble to penetrate t he gloom, and we wore frequent,ly left in midnigh t da.rkness. It would require greater powors than we are in po..<. :.Session of to give nn adequate description of tho magnificence, solemnity, and deso- late roposo of tho awful solitudes through which we passed this evening. They were enlightened, how- ewoI', at times by tho allpearance of glow-worms, which were so luminous, that one could nhuost see to read by thou' golden sillendour j and sometimes by the mooubeams, which trembled upon the leaTes and branches of the trees. A fragTance also was exhaled from the forest, more odoriferou"R than the pe.rfWlle of primroses or violets j and one might almost faney, when threading his woy through scenery which llorhaps cannot be sUlllassed for beauty in any pm of t.he worlJ, that he was approaching those eternal shades where, in ancient time, the souls of good men were supposed to wander. The woods rang with the song of insect~ anJ night-bi.rds, which saluted us with littlo lute1'1llL ion till about ten o'clock at night, when we entered Liialoo, a large &Od pleasant tmru. H ere we were informed that no house would be ofl'ered us, the fetish priests baying declared that tho moment a wbito mall should enter the dwellings of the inha- bitants. they would be seized by their enemies and enslaved. ,Yo tHrivcd thirsty and exhausted, but for {\ long time could not procure cven a drop of water. Our teut lu\d been left ou the road for waut of carrielll, 5§ ARnI" AL AT LARRO. u"nd we had made up our minds to rest under a tree, when about two hours aftel"lvards it was fortunately brought into the to""11. 'Ve :fixed it immediately; and having succeeded in procuring wood from the unkind inhabi mnts, we kindled a fire in front of it, and our people laid themselves in groups outside, whilst we entered, and attempted vainly to sleep. Monday, April 5tk- Before sunrise this morning we were all on the alert, and struck the tent 3t a very early hour. 'Ve then scnt the carners onward with the ~nggage. Rnd hn.stily left tIle town after them, without bidding adieu eithe)! to the chief 01' any of his people, on account of their inhospitnlity, and in an hour's time renched the e)..'teusive and important town of Larro. On dismounting, we were first led to a. huge cleanly swept square, wherein is preserved the fetish of the place, which is the model of a canoe, haying three wooden figures with paddles in it. After wait- ing in the shade for an hour, surrounded by an im- mense multitude of people of all ages, the chief's approach was announced by tl general rush f'tom our CJ.uarters to the other end of the square, where he was walking. We went towards him, in order to pay him the accustomed salutation of shaking of ha.nds, &c.; but one of his followers. fancying that I kept his roaster's hand clasped in mine longer than the occa- sion might warrant, looked fiercely in my face, and snatched away roy hand eagerly and roughly, without, howe"et:, uttering 0. word. I could base pulled the fellow's ears with the greatest good-will in the world, had not the fear of secret revenge deterred me. As it was, I smothered my rising choler, and with roy brother quietly followed the crnef to his principal hut, nuder whose v~randah we' were ser\'ed with goora.- nut.s in a huge pewter platter. Presently the chief squatted himsolf down on a. hD.ll(isome rush mat of ST.n' AT LARRO. 57 nnti"e mnnufactm'c, and ,,~e were desired to sit by him on un elegunt Turkey carpot, which had becn laid bhol'o for tho purpose. He was rather fancifully dressed, and woro two tabes. that nearest the skin beiug of black silk Yeh-et, and the other of crimson \ulrct, lilled wi.th sursonet. His boots were of yellow lenther, neatly worked; nnd his wrists were loaded with bru('clets of sih'er and copper. The chief's counteuo.nce botrnyed much seriousness and solidity; tHld tho di,'erting laugh of his countrymen was super~ !'eded by n sober cheerfulness. Many of his ,vh~es Mt behind him ill lines-some of whom were of a bright coppcr colour i indeed, great numbers of the inhabitants of Larro htwo fuirer complexions than mulattoes. The ynrd of the hut was crrunmed full of ourious and inquisitive people, who stood with open mouth during the wholo of the audienco. The chief wished to imprcss strongly au oW' minds his own diguity Mtd power ; he said he was grcrllter than the GO\'eTllol' of Jeuuo, lUi'lSDluch nl::. the latter was a. 8Iu\'0 to tho King of Katunga, but himself was a free mnn. TIc would givo us penuissioll to depart to- Illon-ow. he continued i and in tho meantime would supply us with pro\-isions. The chief WliS as good as his word; for shortJy a.ftor wo had quitted the hut, we recei "cd n goo t and some yams ; and be returned our \"isit in the cool of the cycning. It appenrs tha.t it is uot his genoral practico to drink spirituous liquors in the p,'osence of his people, 0 1' it may be ngni.nst the law to do so : for hm-i.ng carefully e.. ~. c1uded all pr)ing eyes from. our dwelling, and ordered a. mat to bo hlmg o"c1' tho doorwll.Y. he oven then tumed his fllce to the wall, WheUCYCf he attempted to swallow th~ braudy we offered him. IIo remained ",-i.th u.s mthcr botter thnn an hour. \Ve h:wo forgottell to mention that, on our presenta.tion to the chief in the liS STAT AT LAnnO. morning. a cbapter from the Koran was repeated to him by a Mohammedan priest, to which both he and his people seemed to pay great respect and attention. Public schools nre established bere for the avowed l)ltrpose of teaching the rising generation the rudi· ments of the Mohammedan religion. A singular custom prevails in the tO~Il, of com- pelling children at the breast to swallow a quantity of cold water from a calabash. An infant was nearly choked this afternoon by the inject.ion of more than a. pint of water. down its throat. "'hether mothers follow this custom for the purpose of curing children of any imaginary complaints, or, as is more probable, in the hope of rendering them less eager for their natural food, we have not ascertained. The inhabit-ants possess horses, asses, aud mules, though not in uny considerable numbers: they hayc, hOW6'f"el\-.great abundance of sheep and goa,ts, which nrc bred in the town; and their yards and huts arc the common place of resort, for these animals- indeed, they n1l\,y be said to grow up and live with the chil- dren of their owners, We have been amusing our- selves during the greater pru·t of to-day in 100kiug at the 1)laY£\I1 gambols of some yery handsome goats, which hnd strnyed into our abode j but the sheep-are Dot near so tame or frolicsome, repelling all our ndyunces towards a more familiar acquaint.ance by timidity aud ill-nature. ShrinlpS find fish, which are caught in the streams in tho vicinity of the tovm., arc daily o).1'oscd for sale i and the inhabitants appear to be in l)ossession of a great.er share of the necessnries ond comfort.s of life than their neighbonrs of the sen- const. We have observed the country to be sensibly rising to-day i and agriculture "l'l>eSl'S to be conducted on no regular s,)"1ooo, which is an oyident proof of the act,iyc ARRIVAL AT ::J'EXNA. 59 nud industrious habits of the people. The gloomy raMncsscs and wildnesses of nature, such as we passed on the fu'St day or two of our journey from Badagry, uro less common ns we adyanee; and open glades, with plantations of bn.nanns, nnd fields of yams and Indian corn, all neatly fcnced, met our ,;e" from the path yeste~day nnd this morning. The inhabitnnts of Lano also exhibit greater cleanliness of person and tidiness of apparel than the tribes nenrer the sea. ; and importlmate beggal's have disappeared entirely. :My brother and I begin already to feel the relnxing influence of the climate; but. by the blessing of Ilea\'en, we hope that our progress through the country mny not yet be impeded by sickness. T/le,~a!l, Aprit 6Jh.- The Chief of Larro ro- qucst(ld my brother this morning to repair a sword of his whi('h was broken. but the latter haring expressed his ignorance of the art. of cutlery, we were permitted to take our }cfwe. The sun had scarcely arisen aboye the horizon. and the mists of tho morning yet hung ul100 the hills, when we quitted the tOW11 of Lnrro, and pursued our journey on borsebuck. Three hOl'Seruon fI.·om J enna followed us on tbe pnth, and we were enlivened by tht:' wild jingling of their animals' bells, till we got within u mile of that town, whero we nlighted at a kinu of turu})ikc. and fired a. salute of two muskets. Here we were met by a puree! of fellows with horns, who blew on them lfith tho accustomed energy of the llutivcs: these men preceded us over n bridge. which is thrmnt acro~s a moot thot surrounds Jenna, into the contre of the town, where we again alighted, and nwrutl'd tho chief's plearure in an open shed. 'Ye hud uot b('cn scated muny seconds boforo an inunense ~rowd of peopla PI'CSSW- in upon us 00 every side. subjecting us to the accustomed inconveniences of §O JENNA. want of air, strong umrholcsome smells, and a. con- fused hubbub " tho,t defies description. Never werc people more eager to behold us. The little oues formed themselves into a ring close to the shed ; then followed those of maturer age; after them cnmc a still older class j and the last circle consisted of llcopJe ns tall as steeples, most of whom held infants in their anns. Altogether was formed a large amphi- theatl'c of black woolly heads, and white teeth set in jetty faces; and although we felt rather annoyed a.t their innocent curiosity, and were obliged to wait a considerable time for the DOW chief, we could not help being highly diverted with the spectacle arolmd us. At length, to our great relief and joy, news was brought that ho was ready to receive us. Such is t.be etiquette here, that the longer a st.ranger is com· pelled to wait to be introduced, the greater is the honow- done hiro, and the higher is the rnnk of that. individual supposed to be who exacts this lIDplensant delay. ,Yo discovered the chief, or rather governor, sitting on a piece of leather, llllder a large verandah, at one end of a commodious, square ynrd. He wus clad in the pre"ailing finery of crimson vclvet t.obe and cap, both edged with gold lace. At his right hand sat his wives and women, and we were desired to place ourselves o~ his left. The women saug the praises of their master in a loud, llllpleasuut ,'oice, in which they were nssisted by the music (equally unhannonious) of drums, fifes, clo.riollct-a, and horus. On our wishing ilie ohief all t.he huppiness ill the world, those that had flocked into the yard after us, and overy oue neal' him, prostrated themselves on tho grolllld, and clapped their hands. GOOro·lluts werc presented us in wo.tel', and a profusion of compli- ments passed on both sides; but tho dignity of the newly-mnde governor seemed to sit rather awkwardly JENl\A. 61 "VOIl hlm, for he wus shy and bashful IlS a maiden, nlHl reaUy appeared ngita.ted and afrnid of his white- faced yisitants. Strange os it may seem, the patience of tho most patient people in the ,yorId was eom- 1,lctoly exhausted, as might be seen by their desert.ion of tho premises before we quitted them, notwith- ~t nn{tillg the few words that hlld passed between the chief nnd ourselves. The ceremony of introduction being over, we bade adieu to the chief, and haying , i~itcd the graNe of Dr. Morrison in ow' way, repaired to a hut which bad been got ready for our reception. 'Phe former governor of J enna., who it will be I'eeollected treated the gentlemen composing the last mission so handsomely, died about -fifteen months i\go, and tho King of Yarriba chose one of the mennest of his sla,res ns his successor. This is nn iU\'l\l'iable rule with the sovereigns of that country of which J enoo. is a province, for they fear that, its dis- tOllCC from the capital being very great, a person of higher rank, if possessed of true-nes and spirit, could ~nsily influence the nath'es to throw off the yoke, ond e. he ~nid. he ,ytl-uted 0. sluall sum for his pri. ,·!\te use. which he knew his parent would refuse him. 'l'he word ... w('re hardly out of their mouths before the two Mussulmcn publicly wcnt through their ablutions F2 J:ENNA. in frout of our house, whore, tUrtling their faees to tho cust, they soomed to pray vory devoutly to the founder of their fltilL. When this was concluded, thoy sang liS o,n AI'abic hymn with very great solem- nity, CLUJ the wholo had an immediate and wonderful effoct on tho foolings of lUnn)' of theil' followers in tho yanl, who, mistn.king loudnoss of \'oice for fervour, l\lld hypocritical seriousness for l)iety. made the two wOl'shipp0l1S t\ proscnt of mono)" '1'10 FuHHllhs (tre supposed to bo spies from Socco.too; but, :llthough thill is i1 vcry pl'o\'uJent opinion, DO mensurcs what- over bONO yot, been h\ken eitber to watch their mot.ions, 01' question them as to thoir intentions. 'l'ho womon of J6uua employ themselves genertilly either in spinning cot.ton, 01' prepu rin~ Indiuu corn for food, Much of the formor matoriaJ grows in tho vioinity of tho town, but tho oulti\'lttioll of the plant is not, c!tl'l'ied on with the spirit it descrves, Silk, which is bl'ought ovcl.'lnnd from 'l'ripoli, tho inhabit- a.nts somo! bllCS iutorwoaYo in thoir cotton garUlcnts i bnt I:lUch, boing "or), (lxpcllsi\'o, aro only woru by tho higher OlliSS of pooplo. 'l' hcy havo uuuuduuce of bullouks, })igs, gonts, shOQp, and poultry, bnt t.hey profer vogottlblc food to aniInol; thoir diot, indeed, IS whn.t wo should torm 1)001' find wn,tory, consisting chiofly of l)l'OPU\'!ltioliS of the YiIlU und of I ndhm corn) notwi thshU\(ling "'hi0.1I a st.rongor Or morc t1thletio l'l\OC of IJooplo is uowhore to bo mot. ,rith, Burdens witll tll OlH. lUi with thQ natives of muny PUl't.s of tho continont, al'O itw\\l'lubly eunied on t.ho hCII(l] which, .i t, is mol'O than likely, occllsiollS thnt dignified upt'i¥ht- ness of form and stntcli.Mss of w\llk so oft on spoken of by lhose ncq\\uiutcd with tho plc\\shlg pc(mliaritics of the Africifl\ fomale, fr ho weight of a fo\\~hel' tll. berlH) on t,hc belHl, in 1)1'Ofo1'onoo to it.s bOlug (}!H'l'k'd in tJlO 111Uld j t\,ll(l it not uufrcqnenUy l'oq\lil'l)~ TITE L\TE KL.'W·S WIDOW. 69 tho united st rength of three men to lift a caia-bash of goods from the ground to tbe shoulder of ODe: and thon, and not till theu, does the amazing strength of the African n.pp-car. The greater part of the inlmbLtants of Jenna have the hail' of their head and their eyebrows shaven, but the governor's ministers .and SCr\'onts wear tJlCir hair in the shape of a. horse- ~hoo, as a mark of distinction. It is confined to the crOWJl of the head by ht.rge daubs of indigo, and, llone of the people presuming to imitate it, answors the pmpose of a liyery. Saturday, April lOt/I.-The earliest part of this rooming was obscured by a mist or haze, which was as thick Md at least as unwholesome as a London fog in NoY(~mber; but between nino and ten o'clock it dispersed, and tho sun shone out with uncommon . lustr~. rl'hc but which we occupy is in a large square yard. find is the property of the late go,'ernor's prin- cipnl wife, whose story is rnther romantic. Each of its sides was formed by huts, w1.ieb had ill at one time been inhabited: but, 3. fire haying broken out in onc of them by some accident, the greater part porished. A few huts only are 11.t present standing, togt)ther with blaek naked walls, and stakes which supported the verandahs, the la.tter reduced to char- conI. The tenantablo buiidings arc inhabited by the fewluo slaves of tho owner of tho square and our- seht)s. It is the custom here, when a governor dies. for two of his fa.yomitc wiycs to quit the world on tho 81.\lllC do,y, in order that he may have a. little pleummock, which will be 0. difficult thing to get, and vory c:I.-poHsiyo. '1'ho ohi queen-dowager, like Prior's thief, u On.~n takea Icav\), but seems loth to dCp3rl;" I\lthoug h llC'l' Joom is inevitably sealed, she bas been more cheerful to-day than yesterday, nnd seems deter- ulined to spin out her thread of life to its utmost limit. Spies norc now set over her, and she is not permitted to go out of the yard . .J/oudoy, J pril12t11.-NoLhing dcsoningparticular notice has occurred to-clay. 'Ve hayc had the cus- tomary visit to our yn.rd of a line of women, who COlliO every morning, wi.th r ueful countenances a.nel streaming eyes, to hlment tho o.ppronehing death of the old widow. They weep, they beat their breasts fmd tear their hu.ix, they mOlm, and exhibit all manner of violent aftl.iction at the expected deprivation. Per- haps thQir sorrow is si.ncere, perhaps it is feigned. At aU events, their transports are ungoverned and outrageous: tho first woman in the line begins the cl'y. and is illst.untlyfoHowed by tho other voices; tho opening notes of the lamentation fire rather low and l\lomnful, tho last wild nnd piercing. The principal peoplo of tho place, fin.ding tho old JENX.A. lady still obstinately bent on deferring her exit, have sent a messenger to her native village to make known to her relatives that, should she make her escape, they will take all of them into slavery, and burn their town to ashes, in conformity to an established and very ancient In.w. They would therefore strongly advise the relatives of the old woman, for their own sakes, and for the sa.ke of the public, to use aU their endcosours to prevail upon her to meet her fate honourably and with fortitude. A deputation is expected from t.he village to-IUorrow, wben, no doubt, after a good deal of crying and condoling, and talking and persuading, the matter will e"entually he decided against the old lady. It is understood that she hus bribed a few of the most opulent and influential inhabitants of Jenno, with large sums of money, to induce them to overlook her dereliction-from the path of duty, and that by their representations she bus obtained the tacit consent ot the King of Katunga to live out the full term of her natural life. But the people for lUuny miles round, horror·struck at such impiety and con~empt for ancient customs, htwe risen to enforce the laws of the country against her. CHAPTER III. Tornado--Dcpilrturc from Jc!unn- TiJo JouroQy ioto tho Interior continued through v:nious Towns and Vil!:lges-lllneu of tho 'r rnvellers-Boboo, tllo fonnor Capital of Yanib;J,- Arlh-u.l at KntuDga. Tuesday. ApriI13tlt.-Lnst night we were visited by oue of those terrific thundel'-storms which n.re so pnwalont in these latitudes. Our thatched hut nfl"ol-dcd but nn msecw'o o..nd uncertain asylum ngainst its fury; pnrt of t.he roof wus swept n,way. and the TORNADO AT JE;:"'NA. 75 ruin admi tted freely upon our beds, whence the most ft\\+ful lightning-flushes could be seen, making, as :,Milton says, " the darkness visible." It seemed as if the Genius of the S torm was driving through the murky clouds in his chariot of nre, to awaken the slumbering creation and make -them feel nnd ncknow- lc-dgc his l)owor. It is indcc(l a grand lesson to human pride, to contemplate the terrors of a tornado through the trembling walls nnd roof of a. gloomy, ililapidated hut in Africa. In civilised conntries, \\ ben mon are "isited by an awful calamity of this kind, thc distinctions of rank are levelled, and nluubors Hock together for the purpose of keeping cnch othor in couutenance, a.nd strengthening each other's nenes; but here n.ll is unk,ed, lonely, and d08010.tc. ,y c pnsseu the night, as Dlay be supposed, unCOOl- fortnbly cnougll, The roof of our dwelling had long been infested wi.th numbers of mt.s and mice, and the:3e Ye1'win being dislodged f1'om their ha.unts by the violence of the ,,-ind and rain, sought immedia:te shclter between our beascoe, whose sagacity and experience have proved of infinite "ulne to us, has beeu-lamed in his elldCln~ours to walk as fast as the rest of the party; and as he has also the misfortune of baving onc leg shorter than the other, he became the general butt and laughing-stock of his more robust compn_ nions. To-day, however, we placed. him on the back of the extra. horse, from whence he hnsretorted their revUings; and the whole of them are now as envious of his dignity 0.3 they werQ before fncctious at his expense. We set off from Bidjie while the morning was yet cool and pleasant, and arriyed at Ch(J1f) before eleven o'clock in the forenoon. The natiycs have an unac- countnble fancy that white men are fond of poultry to a-ll excess, insomuch that, whenever WQ enter a yillo.ge or town, all the fowls are immediately seized, and confined ill a place of security till our departure. Scveral strangers accompany\lS from towu to town, in order to evade the duty which is exacted at the tlU'npike-gates, by stiLting thcmstllves to be of t.he number of ow' attendn.nts. ·Women have also placed themselves under the protection of om men, from Cll.pe Coast Castle, that they may enjoy the like advantage: in return for this frwqur, they do \IS J\RRITAL .AT OllOW. 79 mnny Little kind offices, and are useful in making fires, prepn.ring food, &'0" for om' people. Our journey-to-day bas been exceedingly pleasant. Sometimes the path ran in a serpentine direction through plains covered with green turf; sometimes it led us amidst large gro"es of stately trees, from whose brauches a varioty of playful monkeys diverted u~ 1y their mischievous tricks; and the grey p3.rrot, with othm' beOlutiful birth, " Vtnrblcil their native wood-notes wild." The chief of Cho,,' who received and entertained the last mission has been dead some time, and is succeeded by an humblo. good-natured, and activo ioJi,-iduo.l, who bas treated us more like dowi-gods than mono At the time of our arrival he was engaged in supul'intoD(ling the sla.ves at his corn and yam pial'l.to.tions, but hastened to us the moment he was informed of the circuDlstance. He has a. number of horses. amongst which is one of the_smallest and most beautiful w'o hnve o"cr beheld. In. \'110 evening tho chief visited us agnin, with a. prcsout of provisions, and a few gool'a-nut.s. ~Iy brother took the opportunity of playing on a buglc- horn in hi!3 pl'osence, by which he was violently agitated, under tho supposition that tbo instrument wus nothing loss than 3. suake. For the first timc since our landing, we have obson-ed tho loom in acti"e opera.tion. The manu· footmo of cotton cloth is carried on here exclushToly by WOluon. • Tlmrsda!! , Ap.-il 15th.-The path to-day has windw. through n. country chnl'mingly diversified by bill t\nd dale, woods [md ol)en glades. and watered by stl'~alUS flowing oyor bods of fine whits saud. A horl!cman from Kt\tung~ mot us about ten in tho ,so THE CmEF or' OHOW. morning, whose dress and accoutrement,s were highly grotesque. He neither stopped nor spoke, but couched his lance as he gnlloped past us. We found numbers of l)oople of both sexes in the path, who were returning from Egga to Ohow, and scyernl naked boys on tlleir way to the coast, under the cnfe of guardia-os. These are slaves, and will be sold most likely at Badagry. ,Vomen bore burdens on t.hcir heads that would tire a mule, and children not more t.han five or six years of age trudged after them, with loads that would giyc a full-grown person in Europe the brain·fever. ,:Ve departed from Chow before sunrise; a sur- prising dew had fallen during the night, and distilled from the leaves and branches ill large drops. 'We passed, during the forenoon, over thl'ce or four swampy ph\Ccs covered with reeds, rushes, and rank grass, which were inhabited by myriads of frogs of prodigious size. On crossing strenms, we were invariably saluted by a loud and Ullllccountnble hiss- ing, as if from n multitude of serpents. 'Ye could not account for t.his extraordinary noise in any other way than by supposing it, to haNe proceeded from some species of insect whose retl'Cl.lts we had invaded. 'With yety trifling manual h"bour, the path, .!-hich is little better tha,n a me.re gutter, formed by repeated. rnins, might be converted into n good and commodious )'ond' ; and were a tree sim})ly tllrowu oyer them, the st.reams and morasses D1igh~ be CroSSClt with ease and safety. But the un tiycs appear to ha ye no iden whatever of such improvements; Ilud would rather bo eutangled daily in a thiok underwood, and wade through pools of mud and water, than give themselves auy couceru n,bout. repnlring t.he l·oad. Trees not unfl'equoutly fall across the pathway; but, instead of removing. t.he people form 0. largc cil'ouit rO\Uld thcm; EGGA. 81 cvon n smnll not~hill is nn object too mighty to be meddled with, and it is left in the centre of the narrow rOMl, so inconsiderate and indolent are the natives of thili part of the world. Unoy womon with little wooden figures of children on their heads passed us in the course of the morning -mothOl's who, ha.viog lost a cbild, carry such rude imitations of them about their persons for an indefinito time. as a sywl)ol of lUow·rung. Noue of them eould bo induced to part with oue of these little affectionate mOllloriuls. "Vy 0 entered Eg9u) which is Cl. very large town, in tho early part of the afternoon. Ou our arrivnl we wore introduced into tho house occupied by Oal)tain l'lt\p}lcrton in tho last mission, in tho yard of which l'QPOSC tho remains of an Englishman nomed Dawson, who died horo of fe,Tor whell that officcr was passing thrOtlgh the couutry. Both hut and yn.rd 0.1'0 filled with IJeoplc, l\lld are in a state of filth which defies description. "~e cannot rid o\lr~el\'es of sheep, goats, flud fowls, with thoir train i thoy will be our com~ l'nruous in spite of us: and this grievance, with the tongues of n hundred visiters, makes our situation nll but intolcrablo. Egga. is tho principal market town in this part of JVrica, lUlll \ij attended by buyers and sellers for runny miles round. ' Yollien here are the chief, if not the only trndcrs i most of them nrc of grnceful nnd prepos!l.cssing exterior, and they all prMtise those petty tricks and (wti6ces in their dealings with which the 1Ual'kct~wOlUon of more clyilised cOlllltries are not wlncquaultcJ. Priddp, .JpriI16th.-Yeslerdny was compara.tively Nol, owiug to the thick dl\rk clouds which obscured the sl...y; but on our setting out this morning, l\S if tv lUl\kc amcu(lij for his partial conccalment, the sun \'llL 1. G 82 JADOO. showcd his brond, burning face with uncommon clearness, nDd the day was one of the hottest we ever remember to have felt. We found the path in much better condition than those behind it, and it lay almost entirely through plantations of yams, calavances, and pumpkins, and three or four different varieties of corn, whlch a. number of labourers were employed in weeding, &c. The hoe is the only implement of husbandry in usc, and indeed they can weU dispense with every other, because the soil during the rainy months is dO soft and light that but vcry little mnnuo.l exertion in working it is required. Population is abundant; labourers roay be hired to any number, and, in our opinion, the introduction of the plough would scarcely be a blessing, but on the contrary furnish new encourngament to the besetting sin of sloth. Hllving crossed ut noon n. small but agreeable river, flowing from east to west, in which several females were ba.thiug and washing clothes, we short.ly after- wards entered the cnpn.cious and populous town of Jadoo. IIere we wcre informed that the chief had boen in the grave morc thnu a. twelvemonth, and that no one having yet been nominated to succeed him, everything continued in a stut'e of confusion and misrwe. W'e were conducted, afte!' wo bad waited a. little, into a large yo.rd belonging to the Iflto governor, llnd pre80ntly received a visit from his brotber, in company with aU tho elders of the plaeo: but their cOllversution was unpleasant, and their whole bellin-iour much cooler than wus agroMble, the more so as such n rcception had beon entirely UllOXJ,)Ccted. 11ho ),o,l'd whorein wo re8iclo is perfeotly round, and wnllod with huls, all tenanted by the ltlto chief's widows, who omIlIoy their time aud oa1'n their livoli. hood by IIpilllting nnd ,YelWing. Not loss thall t\ JADOO. 83 hundred of the IGog of Katunga's ladies are lodging jl). tho yard with them, They have nll passed the bloom of life, t\od firrh'ed bore lately with loads of trona nnd country cloth, which tbey barter for salt, and various articles of European manufacture, particularly boads: with these they rotmn home, nnd expose tJlero for sale in the market, and after'i'lards the profits are tnken to their husbnnds. These royal Indies nrc distinguished from their countrywomen only by n peculiar species of cloth, which is wrapped round their goods, aud which no one dares to imitate, on pain of perpetual slavery. This severe punishment is often inflicted; for, as the king's wives pay no tribute or turnpike dues whatever, nnd must besides be enter- tniu(.'(t by the chiefs of o,'ory town through which they pnss, strong inducements nrc offered for others to attempt to deceive by using the forbidden cloth, nnd honce eXnIDl)ies nrc necessary. As a contrast to the aftlicted females of Janna, the wi:{es of the King of Katungn. all foIl to crying for jO!J this eYening, on recognising l\ few old acquaintances in the yard, who soon joi.ued them in the melancholy music. It was laughable ouough to sec them j yet after the first bUl'$t had subsided, they began to chat with a garrulity fur beyond that of the most talkatiye of their European :listers. The conversation lasted more than an hour, till l~t lust it resoh~ed itself into a. yiolent quarrel, which has not yet termina.ted. It is now ten o'clock nt night, and the women are sitting in groups round the severnl wood-fires. 'Yo ourselves ~eul\Y ouly a n~l'nndl\h. which is simply dIe proj.x-tiou of the roof of a tha.tched hut j our 10r<:.os Brc fll"tenro to wooden stl,kes in the centre of the yt\r~l: our mcn are lying round them, warming them- lichee at their mm fires. Sheep, beautiful sheep. with tingling belli huug round their necks, are chewing G 3 JAnOO. their cud in peace and happiness. But although it is the hour of repose, the tongues of our female fellow- travellers are making a clI).tter which all the Graces of Billingsgate could not rival, and together with the squalling of brats innumerable, it spoils the emotions which the wild and pleasing scene around us would other. wise awaken in our breasts. Sheep here are regarded lVith as much partiality. andJreated much in the same manner ns ladies' lap-dogs are in Englanel. Great care is taken to keep them clean and in.. good con- dition j they are washed every morning in soap and water; and so greatly are they attached to their masters or mistresses, t.ha.t they are . constantly at their heels, following them in-doors and out, from town to town, and in all their peregrinations. Goats, sheep, swine, and poult.'J" are in great plenty here, and in eyery one's possessiou, notwithstanding which they are always ex.cessiyely dear, because the people take a pride in displaying the number and quality of their domestic animals. The inhabitants of J adoo are, generally speaking, "ery t.jelily clad in cotton dresses, of their own manu- fo.ctul'e. In their persons they a.re much more agree- able than those who reside nearer the sea. European goods nre ·brought hither from Dahomey a.nd Bada- gry, but morc especially from Lagos; nnd a,re (laily e~"P05ed fol' sale in the ma,rkets of Jadoo and Egga. Se"eral ohiefs on the road bcwe asked us the reason why the Portuguese do not puro}lase as many sla.yes as formerly j nue1 make very sad complaints of the ~tagnatiou in this branoh of traffic. Hippopotami aboUllcl in the riYcrs of the Yicinity of the town j when YOWIg, the flesh and skin of these 8.uimals nre sold ns food; and whips and ot.her articles arc made of the skins of t.he old ones. Satu1'day, April 17tlt.-At the usuol how' this roorA. 85 morning, we quitted J adoo, and in the middle of the ctuy un·j"ed at a clean, pretty little village cu.lled Poo!la. Tho appearance of tbe country between these places is e:-..1:rcmely fine, nn:hout much difficulty, but the horses were a long time ill getting across. From hence, the path ,\;nded up a high a,nd steep hill, which we ascended and ontered the town of .t1jQora about mid-day. The gO"crnor gave us a hearty welcome, and said it made him e~.. t reD1ely happy to see us, which the joy and animation of his countenance also e..\:pressed. The best hut iu the to",,"ll, which is the mo/>:t airy and commodious 'Of any we had seen, was plesently got feady for us, and shortly after we had taken possession of it. we recci"cd a quantity of excellent provisions from the ohlef. This is the first day of his government. His father I tho late chief, has been dcad some time, but from motives of delicacy he refused to take upon himself his authority till this morning. In honour of the evont, a large company of women have been dancing, rejoicing, nnd making merry all the evening outside our hut. I t is somewho.t strange tha.t the chicf or governor of almost every town through which we have passed since leaving Bad.igry, wbo was nlhe and well on roy return to the co:\st three ye8ts ago, has been either shin iu war, or has di~:t from natural causes. Scarcely ono of them is uow olive. j.l/o,lda}l. April 19th.-An easy, pleasant ride of thrt::e how'S brought us to the first walled town we Ut\.\'t:: scen, which is called .ds.nmira. The wall is of cla~', and so dimiuutilTe, that a person migbt easily jump (\"~r it: tl dry ditch, about eighteen inches deep, unO. tlu·C'C or four feet in width, also surroWlds the ASSIN,\RA. town. Over this a single plank is thrown, which answors the purpose of a draw-bridge, and is the only means the inhnbit.nnts have of getting in and out of the place. Assiu~rn too has Intel y lost its chief in some battle, and all business .i$ transacted by a benevolent elderly man, who has voluuteered his services till n, successor shall be appointed. From him we have received the warmest reception and the most hospitablo tl-eatment. The climate has already had n. debilitating eBect upon my brother; and from 0., state of robust health and VigOUf he is reduced to so great n. degree of lassitude and weaknoss that he can scarcely st.nnd n. minute at (\. time. Eyery former pleasW'e seems to have lost it.s chnrru. He was att.ncked with fever this afternoon, and his condition would havo been hopeless indeecl had I not been ncar to relievo him. He complained of oxcessivethirst.. I gn;ve him ten grnius of calomel, and nfte.t·W'llros a strong dose of salts. Rain, thunder, and light.ning during the night. '1:uesaa./f. April 20tlt.-My brot.her was much better, nnd free from fever this morning, but too weak to trl'wel, and we shall thereforo reUlI\in at Assmam till to-lUorrow. Tho acting gO\'crnor yisited us to-day with (L long face, and entreated us earnestly to discover a cCl't.nin wizard, WhOlO he imagined to be conoellled somewhero in the tOWn. By this sorcerer's influenoe. muubel's of people, it is snid, pine away and die; und wOlllon with child nro lUore especinlly the objects of his mnleyoleuce, These victims drop sncldenly. without the slightest wllruing; and the dea,ths have lately beon so nu.morous, that the old man himsolf is grievously alarmed, and begs 1\ oharm to preSOl'\tc him and his ftUllUy, F-rida,lJ, April 23;-d.-My brother, fiu(ung himself considerably invigorated nnd rofreshed by (L day's rest ACCODOO. 89 at AssinZlI'R., nnd sufficientJy recovered to pursue oUr journey. I had all hands in readiness to start at an early hour. 1'ohe morning was cool and pleasant, and wo travelled oU\YMds in excellent spirits. vVithout mceting anything ptuticulnr in the path. . or perceiving nny object sufficiently no\'el or striking to demand flttcntiou, we entered the town of Accodoo in the forenoon, ha\.mg had an agreeable ride of a few hours' dU\'lltion only. At this time my brother seemed to be free from any kind of complaint whatever, and enjoyed an nnusuru cheerfulness and buoyancy of spi rits, which led lUG to form the most fll\ttering anti- cipations. In the course of a few minutes, however, his bally was oycrspread with a burning heat, and be ~uffel'ed under another attack of fever, more ,·iolent than any of tho fOrIDOI'. I resorted to the most ]JOW- orful rOnlcdics I could think of at the time. I bled hiro. und applied a strong blister to the-region of the stomach, whoro the disorder seemed to be seated. It was swollen and oppressed wit"" pain. and he felt as if SOUle hugo substance lay upon his chest. Ilis mouth boiug dry and ologged, nnd his thirst burning au{l wlquenohnble, ho drank so muoh wator tha.t his body WI\S grea.tly swollen. In the e,'cning his ideas w~ro oonfuse-d, and he became delirious. He after- wards described to me the horrible pha.ntoms that disturbed him whilst in this state i and the delicious emotion that ran through his whole frrune when the ureaclfuJ. yisions had passed a.way. Tears gushed from his eyes; a llrofus(' persplra.tion, which had been 80 long ('heeked. gnso him immediate reliet', nnd he hM since continucJ to illll)rm'e. Whilst my brother was so ill. the natiyes made 0. most hideous l\oi~o by singiug nnd druUlUling in the c('i(lbmtion of thei.r fl'tish. I wont out, iu the hope of inducing them to be quiet, but they ouIy lr~ughed 99 EI1TDY -CIIOUCHOt'. at him, and annoyed us the more i for they ha.ve no compassion for the sufferings of a. white mau, and, if they can mortify him by any means, they consider it a praiseworthy deed. Yesterday was one of the hottest days we have yet felt, the thermomet-er at noon being 99° of Fahrenheit. Saturday. April 24tlt.-A hammock was prepared for my brother before day-break, this morning, be- cause he was too weak to ride on horseback; and shortly afterwards we quitted the to'rn of Accodoo in much better spirits than circumstances had led us to hope for. The hammock-men found their hurthen rather troublesome; nevertheless, we travelled at a. pretty quick pace, and between eight and nine o'clock balted at a pleasant and comfort-nble nllage, called StUdy. The chief sent us tl fowl and four hundred cowries; but we stopped ouly to take 11 slight refresh- ment on horseback, and pay our respects. We then proceeded through large plantat,ions of cotton, indigo, Indian corn, and yams, and oyer stony fields, till betwecn ten and eleyen, when we entered the town of ChoucllOu. 'Vc were almost immediately introduced to the chief, and from him into a ruinous hut, in a morc filthy state than can be imagined: no pig-stye was o,'er half so bad, Its late occupier had inClru:.ed the displeasw'c and batred of his chief, because he happened to be very rich, and rather than pay a heavy fine, he run away, and has joined his former enemies; nncl this may partly nccount for the destitut.ioll and wreLehedness around us. Since leaving Jenna, we have met an incredible number of I'Cl'SOllS visited wi.th the loss of ono eye. Thoy Rssign no other renson for their misfortune than t.he heat and glnre of the sun's rnys. Sunday, April 25t!t.-It rained heavily during the whole of last night; but our hut, -although of the LEAVE onoucnon. 91 \fer)' worst description, had a pretty good thatched roof, Md sheltered us much better than we bad ex- pected. There are periods and seasons in our lifetime in which we feel n. bappy complacency of temper and ~m inward satisfaction, cheerfulness, and joy, for which we cannot very 'well account, but which constrain us to be at peace with ourselves and our neighbours, and in lovo ,,·ith all the works of God. In this truly enviable ITt\IDC of mind I awoke, tills morning, to proceed 01lW801'ds, on horseback. It was 0. morning which was fn,idy ontitled to the epithet of "incense-breathing; >1 fol' the "ariety of sweet-smelling pelfume which ex- hnJ.ed, niter the ro.in, from forest flowers, and flowering shrubs, wus delicious and o.lmost overpowering, The scenory of to-dny has been more interesting and lovely thun any wo have heretofore beheld. The path circled round a mngnj6.cent culti,rated valiey, hemmed in almost on overy side with mountains of granite of the most grotesque and irregular shapes, the summits of 'which are covered with stunted tre~s, and the hollows in their slopes occupied by clusters of huts, whose inma,tes htwe fled thither as a place of seclll'it.y against tho l'iwages of the lear-men that infest the plains. A number of strange birds resort to this valley, many of whoso notes wero rich, full, and melodious, while othol's were harsh and disagreeable j but, generally speaking. the plumage was yarious, splendid, and beautiful. The modest partridge appeared in company ,rith tho magnificont Balea.ric crane, with his regal crest j and delicate humming-birds hopped from twig to t\yig l with others of an unknown species; some of thero were of a dark shining green j some had red silky wings and purple bodies j some wore variegated with strip(!s of crimsoll and gold; and these chirped lind warblOl.l froUl among the thick folit\go of the trees. It is the contempit\tion of such beautiful objects PUDmU- GWENDEKKI. as these, all so playful and so hnppy-or the more sublime ones of dark waving forests, plains of vast extent, or stupendous mountains, that gives the mind the most sensible emotions of delight and grandeur, leading it insensibly " To lOl)k from nature up to nature's God." For myself, I am passionately fond of thew, nnd have regretted a thousand times over that my ignorance incapacitates me from giving a. proper representation of them, or describing the simplest flower tIl at adorns the plains, or the smallest insect that sparkles in the ail'. This consideration gives me at times mnny unhappy reflections, although my defective education arose from circumstances over which my boyhood had no control. Having passed thrOllgh the immense valley beforc- mentioned, we had uot travelled far before we arrived and halted at a large ,tillage, called Fudibu~' here we rested awhile, and then continuing our jo\U"uey for t\'"O hours, over e\'en ground between high hills, we rode into the town of Gu:en.aekLi, in which we pUl-pose l)assing the night. The chief is either very poor or else very ill-natured, for the only thing he sent us was a little boiled yam, with a mess- of unpalatable gravy, which he would not hn,ye gi"en if he did not expect ten times its value ill ret\l.rn. Divine sen'ice wns perforroc(l in the course of the day, ns usual; and this is (l. dnty which, to persons in our situation, is inconceivably l)lellsant. It renders \1S happy and resigned in t.he midst of our affiict.ions- refreshing our confidence in the all-protecting tum of that beneficent Deing who is the author and disposer of our destinies, Clnd in whom ruone, thus w'idely sepa- rated from home and kindred and civilizntion, the wanderer can l)lace his trust. EOO. 93 Monday, April 26th.-A thiok lllist obscured the hQrizon this morning, and hid in deep shnde the mountu"ins o.ud hills ; every object indeed was invisible, except the pathway, and the trees, t.~c . , gwwing on Mob side, which we could barely distinguish as ""e IJassed along. It continued hazy for two hours n.flor leaving Gwendekki, when the mist dispersed, and tho a~mosphel'e became olear. Preparatory to asoeuding 80 steep granite hill, we halted to refresh our horses under the br80nches of a high spreading tTee, nea.r a toW'll caUed Ec6. Hel'c we were visited by soYel'al of the inhabitants, who, as soon as they wore informed of out' arrival, came Hooking to the spot. They formed themselves into a line to pay thoir respeots, nnd entreated us to wait 0. little for the corning of their ohief, who was momentarilyexpeoted. But after staying llS long IlS we conveniently could, I'm..! no chief appearing. we mounted our beasts and bogan the toilsome ascent. On att:.a.ining the su.mm.it of the hill, the cou,p. little F alil.ta.h \'i.llaget the huts of which arc constructed in the circulM' or coozie form . Its inhabitants employ themselves solely in the breeding of catUo--an occupation to which they I\I~ pussiouu.te1y addicted. They arc simple in thcir m t\OUC'fS, nod extremely nea.t in their dress nnd appl"arau('c. Not long nftor our a.rrivru, three or four young Fab.tJ.h shcpbCl'dcssos from the village co..me to our ClU.ADOO. hut to pay their respects. 'Ve felt much pleased with their society, for they were extremely well- behaved and intelligent; but they remained wit.h us a very little time, their customary avocation not per- mitting a. longer stay. The hair of these-females was braided in a style peculiarly tasteful and becoming; ::md the contour of their Oyal faces was very fur trom disagreeable. Their manners also were innocent and playful: the imaginary shepherdesses of Fenton are .not more -modest, o.rtless, and engaging in description than these in reality; and they left behind t,hem au impression very faYoW"able, both as rega.rds their morals, naivete, and rustic simplicity. On the road from Dillo, my brother unthinkingly "fired at and shot a. crane, which fell in au adjoining field. The report of his gun brought out a u\Unber of natives from the" bush," who, being in continual dread of an att,ack from the II war-men of the l)ath," imagined it to be a. signnl of one of these Dlarauders. They were aU armed, like their countrymen, with bows and arrows; and with n. threatening aspect, would have lodged a few shafts in the person of my brother, if it bad not be~n for the timely interference of one of Out' J6n.na. messengers, that fortunately happened to bo with him at the time, and who gnve an immediate ond satisfnotory e).."plnnatiqn. Thcnead of the party thon sought for and picked up the bird j but my brother took it from him, after he bo.(l rewardecl him liberolly for his trouble. Tho mnn, however, was neither satisfied nor pleased, but roughly demanded the bird as his own, because it hnd fallen on his land. As there nre no gnmc-Inws here, my brother would not ndmit his claim, and was going away, when the fellow begged, with muoh iml)ortunity, that tho heacl and legs of the animal at least might be given him, to make a fetish of. This ),as likewise OllAADOO. 97 objected to, n.t which he was out of all patience, and wont off fooming with passion. In the cyening the Cnlnc was dressed for supper, and a. similar request WIl S ronde by 0. eunuch from Kntunga, who being n good-uatu,'oo. fellow, we readily complied with his wish. The cruef of Chdadoo, however, presently sent i\. messenger to request the said precious hend and legs; and to him they ,vere finally committed by the disapl)ointed eunuch, who could hardly forbear weeping on the occasion : these relics nre extremely ,'nhmblc as 1\ charm. 1.'ho ernef sent us a. goat, n. quantity of bananas, a dish of pounded, or rather mnshed yam, with gravy, amI a large basket of caffas. These are a kind of pudding, roade iuto little round balls, from bruised lmlinn COl'Il, which is fu'st boiled to th~ consistenco of tbi('k pusto. From being made entirely of coal'8e flour and water, they hayc an insipid taste when Dew; but wheD kept for a day or two, they be<:omc sour , and ill t.his sta.to oro caton. by the nati"es, There are se"el'nl dC\)I) wells in the tmnl , but most of thero are dried up, so that water i~ exceedingly scarce, and it is sold ill the market-plnce to the inhabitants. ,Yo are daily n('costed on tho road with such salutations as these: .. I hope you go well on the path j" «Success to the kiug's work;" «God bless you, white men j" U A blcssing ou your roturn," \ ~c. Ir'edm'May, Apr-a 28tJt.-\Ve hayQ remained at Chaadoo to-dilY, to giyo the carriers with the luggage timc to COulO up with us, bccause thcy havo been unavoidably detained by tho roughness and unC\'en- ness of the rond from Duro to Elckba., The l{atunga ('uuuell we nlluded to yesterday was recently sent by the king of that place to recci,'e the customary tributo of the goycmors of tho various towns on the road. bC'twocn Kll.tuuga llod JeDnO. TIllS mnn is treated \-OL, [, II LEAVE CllA.!DOO. with much respect, both by the governor of Chaadoo Ilnd his people, who pro~trate themselves to the eunuch before addressing him. . Bellig in want of money; we sent needles this morning to the market to sell. I t is a. custom in Yarriba, thnt, after a buyer has a.greed to pay a certain sum for au article. be retracts his expressions, and affirms that he only promised to give a.bout half the sum demanded. This has occasioned yiolent - altercations between. our people and the natives; but it is an established custODl, from which there is no appeal. The governor 's mother was bW'ied this afternoon at a neighbouring village, and the funeral was attended by nil his wives or women, as mourners. They were dressed in their holiday nuire, a.nd looked tolerably smart. The mourners oshibited no signs of grief whatever j on the contrary, they were as li,'ely us a wcdding.party. Attended by a drummer. they passed through our yard four hours ago, on their retWll to the governor's house, whlch is only flo few steps from ours, and thore they have been singing and dancing to the noise of the drum ever since. The inhabitants of the town have immense quan- tities of sheep, goats, pigs, and poult.ry; but bullooks nre in the possession of FaUltahs alone. 'We ®-not believe the natives ruwe a. single animal of thls description. Like many other plaoes, the market is not held here till tho hent and toil of the day are over j and buyers seldom resort to it till eight o'clock in tue evening. TllU1·sday. April 29th.-It commenced raining this morning at a very early hOUI. and contiuued. with uncommon violence, till between ten and eleven o'olock, when it suddenly cea-sed, and we quittod Chiindoo. Before this, however, the credulous governor, who. in common "it·h his people. imagines that white ruen ROW. 99 influence the elements, paid us a visit, with a calabash of honey as a present, to thank us, he said, for the min thn,t had fa.llen, of which tho country is greatly in want, and invoked blessings on us. The kindness of this good old man is remarkable. He never seeme(l woory of obliging us, rcgretted his ina.bility to do more, and solicited us yery pressingly to remain with !tim another day. We traversed a. mountainous country, intersected with streams of excellent water j a.nd at noon entered a small, but plerumnt and picturesque village, which is ornamented with noble, shady trees. Here we wruted 1\ very short time, but, continuing our route, arrived towards evening (\t a ca.paoious walled town, culled R rn .' , wherein we shall pagS tho night. III many placcs the wall, if it be deserving the name, is no more than twclyo or fow·tecn inches from the ground, and the moat is of similar dimensions. The ),urd to which we worc conducted shortly after our arrival is within three or four others; and so intricate are tho passages leading to it, that a.fter a stranger gets in, he would be sadly puzzled to find his way out again without a guide. Nevertheless this wa.s no p,eourity agniust interruption, for tho yard was speedily iu\'adcd by fiyo or six hundred indh-idunls. who had boon induced to visit us from curiosity. As usual, thoy anuoyed u.s for l\ long time to the best of their t\bilit)~, till they completely wearied us out by their importuuity aud forwardness. We then hung sheets round the doorway of our dwelling, and lay down on our mats; and then only they begun to disperse, and loft us at our casco Tho governor of the to\\·U is (l. morose, surly, and iU·nlltureli man. ITe sent us only a. few bananas this o'·cniug. and a cuhbnsh of eggs, which were nIl stale tmd unfit to be caton, $0 that our peoplo werc obliged u 2 1,00 now. to go suppcrless to bed. He ascribed 'the badness of his fnrc to extreme poverty; yet bis vanity exacted from our J enna. messengers the most abject met.hod of salutation we are acqunint.ed with. These men walked backwards from him several yards, to throw dirt on their heads; and, with the dust and filth still clinging to their hair, they were compelled to address the chief with their faces .t o the ground. Our apart- ment unfortunately communicates with his j and the restless tongues of his numerous wiycs prevented eit.her my brother or self from closing OUI' eyes long after SWlset. In the centre of our yard grows a tree, round which several staves are driven into the ground. This tree is a feUsb·t.ree, and these staves also f~tfsh, antI. therefore we rccci\'cd a strong injuDction not to tie our horses to either of them. Calabashes, common nrticlcs of earthellwnre, and evcn feathers, cgg-shells, nnd the bones of a.nimals-indeed, any kind of innniruate substance is made fetish by thc credulous, stupid natives; and, like the horse-shoe which is still nailed to the doors of tho more superstitious of the llcusuntl·y in England, these fetishes nre supposed to l)1'cserve them from ghosts and e\·i1 spirits. It is so.cl'ilege to touch them, and to ridiculc them woula he dangerous. Friday, April 30t/t.-It was between soven and eight o'clock before canim's could be procured this rnorning, and everything got in readiness for our departure: the sun was excessively hot, and tho sky bl'illiantly clear, We crossed two or three rivulets of cool. delicious water, as we had done yesterday, aod tbcn passed through an insignificant ,'ilinge, whose chief sent us a calabasl1 of bruiscd corn, mixed with water, to drink. At noon wc arrived at the foot of a very elevated run, and perceived a town perched on its summit, and know it to be the sume t.o which CIIEKKr. 101 we had been directed. ,Yo dismounted, and after n laborious ascent, which occupied us three quarters of no hour, at length renched the top. Stones and blocks of granite interrupted the path, so that it was n. very diffioult matter to force the horses aJOlig before us j they fell repeatedly, but without materially injuring themselves. Tho name of the towu is Chekki. Our arrival was rath~r unexpected, and therefore the governor was not prepared to receive us ; and we sat down under n. treo, till we were tired of waiting. At length a man came to c@uduct us to his residence, which was but 3. little way from our tJ.·ee, when a tumultuous rush was mado by tho inhabitants to precede us into the yard; and notwithstanding the presence of their chief, they surrounded our })n.rty so closely as to preyent a IHnticlc of fresh nil' from renching us. The governor recoi\tcd us with bluutness, but not unkiudly, though withollt much demonstration of good-will . "'bile in his ynrd, ho regaled us with water, and afterwards sent a h\rge calabash offoorah, sweetened with honey, to oW' lodgings. wbich did not taste unlike thick gruel. or l)IIrgoo, as it is tcrmed in Scotland. It is made of l\ corn callc..l goorah, is very palata.ble, and is in geneml usc with the na.tives of these pa.rts. A quantity of bananas from the chief soon followed the foorah, and something marc substantial than either hus been prowised us. 'ro h&TO obsen"ed thnt it is a general prnctice hefC'. as well as ill every other town. through which we have PU8SI.' dila.pidated waUs. which inclose nn immense extent. of ground, wouM lead one to suppose that it wus formerly of much grea.ter magnitude. " "ithin the walls. axe three granito hills, two on ono side, and L06 AOBORO. the other on 'the opposite side of the town. All their bases aTe of solid stone, but their summits consist of loose blocks, from the interstices of which trees and stunted vegetation shoot forth. Besides these hills, immense masses of granite rock are seen piled upon each other in difforent part.s, On the whole, Acboro is Que of tho wildest and most veDerable-loo~iDg places that the human mind can conceive, the babit.a- tions of the people alone lessening that romantic and pleasing effect which a first sight of it produces. The hut with which we havo been accommodated is not tho pleasantest nor most comfortable residence in the world ; but then we ure persuaded that no better can be proclU'cd in the town, so we are quite contont with it. Shortly after our arrival, the governor scnt us 0. sucking-pig, and some other presents, and a.ppeared highly pleased that ciroumstnnces had thrown u.s in his wny. H White men do nothing but good," said he, H and I ~;ll pray that God may bless you, and send more of your cOlmtrymen to Yarriba. 1I Instead of the peoplo rwming and scram.bling to seo us, as hitherto, the good-nattrred ruler of this placo bas excluded the mass of them from visiting 0111' yard, and came very civilly to ask our permission for a few of his friends to look o..t us. I wns too wenk and indisposed to gratify their curiosity by rising from my couch ; so my brother wont out to exhibit his person, and sn1- fGrod himself to be examined rather minutely. They separated, I believe, tolerably well pleased with C8.oh other. Last night a large can>i.ng-knifo and a shot- belt wore stolon from us at Ooosoo, whilst we slept i but ns it is not "cry probable that an inhabit.nnt wowd bo so rnsh ns to brn"e our guns and walk o"er out' bodieI'. which tho thief was obliged to do, we attach suspioion only to one of om own Ulon. ARRIVE AT LAZLPA. 107 Tue8day, May 4Vt. - Yesterday three mon, inha- bitants of Acboro, wore captured by 0. gang of restless, mn.t'Q.uding scoundrels, who arc denominated here, as clsewhero, H war-men of the path," but who o.·re, in reality, nothing moro nor less than highway robbers. Thoy subsist solely by pillage and rapine, nod way- laying thoir countrymen. The late governor of Aeboro was deposed and driven from the town by his owu people, for his indifference to their interests, nnel tho wanton cruelty 'with which he treated them and their children. At different times he seized se,'erru individuals of both sexes, nnd sold them as slavos, "ithout assigning any canse for the net. This drew on him tho vengeance of tho friends and rela- tiNS of tho 8ltftOl'Ors, who prm'ailed on their towns- pooplo to I\.rise "'ith thcro and punish the aggressor. 'rho IZlttor soon found that his party was too weak to withstand tho attacks of the cxa-sperated popu- lace, and he fled to a remote 'illngo, where he now resides; and the inhabitants of Acboro immediately elected a more hUlllnno and benevolent goyernor in his stead. Wo rose this morning. as usual, at an early hour ; and fimling mysolf sufficiontly reeoyered to ride on horscbnck. we bl\de farewell to tho governor of Acboro, and quitted the town by sunrise, ta.king care to use the samo prccl\.utioos against robbers as yesterday, III a.u hom and three-quarters wo entered no open tlu{l delightful villt\gc. called Lazipa. An assem- blt\ge of FntHuh hut~ stood near it, by which their beautiful cattle were grnzing. '·Ve stopped a short time to admire them. Many of the bullocks were aa white os snow; others were spotted like a leopard's skin; and others agnin woro dotted with red and blt\ck 011 0. whit.o ground. A FalMah girl presented us "ith a bowl of new milk, which was "ory ngreeable 1;)8 ARRllE AT COOTOO. and refreshing j and, "after Clrinking it, we bade adieu to the Faia.taha and their cattle for ever. We · had not travelled a, great way from Lazipa before we had to cross a large morass, on the borders 9f which 1\ very large and handsome species of water. . lily fiourisJlCS in great perfection. We crossed this morass without difficult.y or trouble. and with the same facility, also, two small· streams, which inter- sected the road. At nine, A,M., we urrived at C()()Wo, which, like La.zipa, is an open village, but the former is by far the most extensiye of the two. A person who may have travelled from Penzance, in Cornwall, to the Land's End, and observed the nature of the soil, and the blocks of granite which are scattered over its surfnce, will haye a very good idea of the country between Acboro and Oootoo, only that here it -is much more woody. After leaving Oootoo, however, the a-spect of the 8ulToundiug scenery speedily changcd, aud became infinitely more pleasing. The soil was more rich and deeper j patches of verdure and cult.ivated land were more frequent, the latter being neatly fenced j nne, handsome trees, wit,h their spreaiii,ng branches and thick foliage, embellished tho country in every direction, and extended to the eastern horizon. Oue would be inclined to suppose that these t.rees had been carefully planted by the hand of man, for they grew at equal distances from each other, nod none seemed to inteJ:fere with the order, beauty, and regu-:o Inrity of its neighbour. The soil between them was covered with n. 80ft gr:een turf, which rendered the whole view rcmnl'kn.bly pleasant. It v,-ns over this delightful landscape that we tl"t'l.,·elled; the morning was cooled by n. refreshing south-enst. \yiud, and we were both on good terms wi.th ourselyes. and grat.ified by eyerything around ut). At lellgth we oQme in .AHRJVE AT BoiIOO. 109 sight of numerous herds of fine cattle, a.ttended by little boys; and shortly after, we arrived at n. clenn nnd neat Fnlatnh village, whose inliabitants were employed in feeding calves, and other occupations connected 'with an African farm. 'rYe then crossed n small stream, and entcred n. town of prodigious c...\.lent, called B61wo, 'whioh is fortified with a triple wnll and moats. Without being exposed to the customa.ry tiresome formalities, we were immediately cOl\(lucted to tho residence of the governor. The usunl com'crsation passed betweon us; nnd, after we had returned to our hut, a bullock was sent us, ,,'ith yams, bl'\.uanas, and a huge calabash of new milk, which did not conttl.iu less than six gallons; and OllI' people sat dOWll to enjoy themselves in porfect goed humour. In the afternoon, 0. message was de.lh·ercd to us, e.ignif)'iug thn-t the goyornor's 'f bead minister" would be "ory gltld to see us, and would thank us to ,'isit bim in tho COUl'se of t.he (b.y. But hwing experienced 1\ relapse, my sufferings were such as to prevent my leasing the hut, and roy brother was theref?re obliged to go alolle. Ho afterwards informed me, tlHlot n pleasant walk of rather more than two miles conducteu him to the habitntion of the minister, by whom he was yery kindly received. The compli- ments of the day ouIy were exchanged between them: and the numerous wises and large family of tho master of the house, who ru-e on these occasions gonerally exhibited to n stronger, having amply grati- fied. their curiosity by an examinn.tiou of his persou, the iutcryicw terroilln.led; aud ho llresently returned to QUf a.bode, aTter promising to ,'isit the minister again tu-lUorrow. BUIloo lies uorth-cast of Acboro, aud is built on the slope of n. yel'Y gentle aud fertile hill, at whose bnsc fimn3 n. streaUl of milk·white water; and ~·lO Bonoo. behind which, on a rising ground, is the Falil.tah hamlet already mentioned. Its immense triple wall is little short of twenty miles in circuit; but, besides huts and gardens, it incloses 0. vast number of ncres of excellent meadow land, on which bullocks, sheep, and goats, indiscriminately feed. By the hasty view obtained of it, the town is not much unlike Kano ; but there is no large swamp like that which intersects the latter city. B6hoo was formerly the metropolis of Yarriba.; but about half a century ago, the reigning prince preferring the plain at Katunga, the seat of government was transferred thoro i since which t.imo B6hoo has materially declined in wealth, popula.tion, and consequence, olthough it is st.ill considered a plo.ce of greo.t importance, and the second town in the kingdom. It is bouncled on all sides by hills of gradual ascent, which are prettily wooded, and com- mands au extensive horizon. The land in the vicinity of the town presents a. most inviting sppca,rance, by no mcans inferior to any part of England in th~ most favourable senson of the yenr. It seem to be duly appreciated by the Falatahs, so great a nwnber of whom reside ,vith their flocks in different parts, that the minister candidly declared he could not infonn us of their amount. These foreigners sell their milk, butter, nnd cheese, in the market, at a reasonable rate. The latter is wade into little cakes of about an incb squuro, and, when fried in butter, is very pruntable. I t is of tho consistence and appearanco of the whito of nn egg, boile(l bard. I have been very ill all the evening with fe,'er, accompanied by exoruoiating pains in the bowels; but my spirits arc cheerful, and I bopo. soon to recover. We are thankful that we have not been both thus affiioted at the snme time. As soon as one of us has in a measure regained his strength, his nssistnncc DOUQO. III hM bool! required to rWD illtor to tho wante of tho other. ll'etilleWa!J. M"!J 5t1t.-Agrccnbly to tho pro1ui80 my brothor mado yestorday, ho loft roo to tbo onro of P08koo nod bja wife, tbis morning, and haetooed to pt~y his rcepects to tho ohiof'a hend moo, or minieU>.r, 0" he is called. It o.ppco.rs tbo.L thi8 m.a.n hns becn placed in his prescnt eitun-tion by tho King of Katungo., R8 0. kind of ~py on the actions of Lbo governor, who cnn do DOthing of 0. public natura without, in the first place. consulting bim, nnd obto.in- in~ his cooacnt to tho mCMuro. Y ot he conflucll himself Ie well in 11is diao.grccable OffiCD. that ho has Wf)n lh~ good-will not only of tho governor of tho t()Wll. hut n]i!f) of its inhabitant". A kind of rivalf')" niBt" lmtv.cen the mini~tor and hiB mtlAtor i but th(>n it i~ 0. rivnlry in good, and no io bad o.otirlO", Henr- ing ~hBt the governor bad giVI'O us tl. bullock. and lWmcthing be!:tidj'"~, he prcscnl~d my hr(Jth(~r with 0. "imilur on,. , and 0. largo Cruo.bl\Bh of pi/if) (country bl'l'r). whi('h he distributed o.mQng th060 W]-IO hn.d o.l'companicd him. A hotLlc 1)£ hooey comple-lea tho list of J)rr~'l'nt.A. Bod thoy were f()rUlwitb forwo.rrlcd VJ I)o r bahitution. hut ruT brothf"!T remAined tJ. (.'rm- _i.l('rabl.., timo afterward; with tho chi(>f. 110 w(U filled witb Ilm(l.1,f'mf:nt at tho formation and tirking of my hrotht'r'. watch ..... hich h~ gn.z(>,j on and lill-- ~h{'d to "';th trIlOA' .... ,rt; hiA ,"pUN> O.}."" f!xrittd hi" f'.Ilw"r rnntl8ily , and ho cxamin·~d thom with \hi' nllOutl'al Attention, 11J} ht)JH~d. hI" IBid. that Got.! woof.! 1)1~ 11$ both, and thllL wo had bi"" hf:"t "i ... hf"8 f'Ir (Jur f 1.,." Ill' T' lJIArked. furthr-r. thnl ....h ittl OIt'U W·,r hipP""" "the fimat G()fi nloDt',-llnd 80 ,lid l,ln('x m .1'J; an.1 that 0",( ry hi ing t)f liff' "M flt'ri"fNJ lrom thAt 860rce. i)n ml1,roth,x, r("fum, 1 WM Ynry jJ1 j I JuvJ IWl n U2 Bonoo. so faint and sick during his absenoe, th'at my recovery soemed doubtful, but a few hours afterwards r became bettor. In the afternoon, I sont to the governor and his minister, who had behaved so handsomely to us, tlu'co yards of fine red cloth, a comm()n looking-glass, tobacco-pipo, a. pair of scissors, snuff-box., and a. large clasp-knife. The tobncco-I)ipe was much ndmired, but the rod cloth was most valued i with tho whole, however, they were both perfectly well pleased, and were oxtrnyagant in expressions of gratitude. One of tho bullocks was slaughtered this morning, and about two-thirds of it distributed by the go,'OI'UOl' and his chief mo.n to tho 1)001' of tho town; the remainder of the OEll'cnse was dinded equally among our attendnnts, who are in DO hurry to leave the vince, while their present unusually good fnro is to bo had. \ Last evening, t.wo female acquaintallcos, who had bcen separatcd from each othel' for a short timo only, lllet in the yard adjoining ow'S, whereiu OnG of thom constnntly resides. '1'he women burst into tears directly they saw ench other, and cried loud ono\lgh to bo heard distinctly by us during the whole of tho night i nor did thoy ceo.se g iving vent to thoir foolings till some time after sunrise t.his morning. . , ThUl ..~ a.f/, l)fay 6tll.-1 am now so for improved in. health, thnt I hopo by to-morrow to be able to travel On hOl'sebnck. Perhaps of all evils that cn.n amict n. sick })01'S01\, noises of any kind nre tho greatest. In Africa, whether one is ill or well, it is oxnotly tho same, nothing like l,enoe 01' quiet i~ anywhero to be found. Independent of the continual fluttering of l1igeons, which roost oloso to our ears, tho bleatiu('/' of sheep and goats, nnd tho bnl'king. of )\umorous h°nlf-stI3ned dogs, we nro still morc ser iously BOHOO, 113 annoyed by the incessant clo.ttcr of women 's tongues, w'"hich pursues 'lIS everywhere, and which I really believe nothing less than sickness or death on theit pa-rt can cffectuo.lly silence, The shrillness of their voices drowns the blea.ting of the sheep and the yellings of the canine race j and notwithstanding all my brother's exertions, seconded by those of our people, tiheir noise in this town has constantly dis~ turbed rue during my illness. A person in England might be inclined to think lightly of the matter; but it is indeed a grievance which can ill be borne by an imcnJid languishing under a wasting disease, and who has equally as much need of rest and silence as of medicine. Besides these grieYances, the shouts of the people outside the yard, nnd the perpetual squall- ing of children within it, the buzzing of beetles and drones, the per}letnal attacks of mosquitoes and innumcl't\,blc flies. form a bost of irritating evils, to wbich a sick person is e:-..-posed, and to which he is obligc~l patiently to submit, until, \)y a. relief from his disorder, he is enabled to stand upon his legs and ouce more take his mm part. But even then noises assail his ears, and he does not enjoy the happiness of perfeot silence unless he enters n groye or forest. We wore visited this morning by a. party of FalMnhs of both· sexes. They differ but little either in colour or feature from the original nati,'es of the soil. In dress and ornrunents, however. there is a slight distinotion betw"een them. They display more taste in their apparci, and wear a greater number of ornaUlents round the neck aud wrists: they pay greater attontion also to their hair, which the women plait with t)stouishing ingenuity. Like that of the young worunu we met at J 6uno., their heads exactly resemble a dragoon's helmet. The hair is much YOLo 1. 114 BOIIOO. longer, of course, than that of the negro, which enables the Falatahs to weave it on both sides of the head into a kind of queue, whicb, passing over each cbeek, is tied lroder the chin. Another company of Fala.tahs came to us ~n the evening, for they had nel'or beheld Q. white man, nncl curiosity had led them to our habitation. They brought us a present of it little thick milk, which they begge<.l us to accept, and then wcut ::tway highly gra.tified with the inteniew. The behaviour of the whole of them was extremely reseneJ and respectful ; nothing in ow' persons excited their merriment; on the cont.rary. t.bey seemed silently to admire oW' dress and complexion; and haNillg looked well at us from a little distancc, seemed grateful for the trea,t. The kindness and generosity of the goycrnor of B6hoo continues unabated : instead of diminishing, it seems t.o strengthen ; he literally inundates us with milk, and he is equally uwish with other things, It gives us unmixed pleasure to meet with so much llath"e politeness aD(1 attention from n· quarter wBere we least e).'"}lected it, and nt a time also when it is- mos.t required .. F1,'day. Jfay 7tJt,-After wo had retired to rest last night, n Falatah woman came to our dwe!Jing. bringing with lier a quantity of eggs of t.he Gumea- hen. and a large bowl ofUlilk fresh from the co,,', asn. return for a few needles we had given her in the. afternoon, \~le relate this little circ umst.ance simply to show the difference between the FnL\tahs and the Yarribeans, in point of gratitude for favours they mlly have ' received, The laHer are w~ry seldom thankful, and never acknowledge gratitude as a virtue; the inruli'erence, unconcern, and even con- tempt, which they .. often evince on receiying our l)l'"esents, is a proof of this; a.nd, with very few ARItIYA].. AT JAGUTA. 115 exceptions., we ne\'er observed a Yarribean to be sincerely thankful for anything. ~ In the morning I was able to sit on horseback j and u.s wo were setting oft', the governor came out to wish us fa.rewell, and ~ to present us 'with two thousand cowo.ries for the purpose of assisting us on our journe.yo. We have said that B6bo~ is about twenty miles in circumfoo'cnce-perhaps we guessed considerably within bounds j for as we rode out of the city, "e wero astonished at its yost extent. Two hours after leaving B6hoo, we passed through an agreeable, thinly inhabited yillo.ge, cnlled MaltJo; and in somewhat less. than au hour after, ru;riyed at Ja.gii.ta, which is a lll.rge and compact town, fortified by a neater and mora substaut.iilolly-built wall than any we. ho.ye yet scen. Jaq[tta Des E.S.E. of BohoC', from which it is i.lista;lt, ns nearly as we can guess, from twelYe to thirteen miles. In the course of the journey we met n party of Nouffic trudel's from Ooulfo, with asses carrying trona for the Gonja market. Among them wcre two WOillen Ycry neatly clad in their native cos- tume, with clean ,~thite tobes outside their other 1l'}lpll.rcl, resembling as nea.rly as possible the chemise of Ew'Opcan Indies. These asses were the first beasts we bad obse1"Yed oonployed in carrying burdens. for hitherto pCOl)le of both se....:es and of nll ages, espe- oially \,~omen' and female children, have performed these laborious duties. The goyornor of J nguta came to apologise in the 0\'cning for not haying attended us the greater p.n.rt of the day. on tho plea thn.t he ha.d been engaged in the country with his people in ma.king a fetfsh for the prosllcrity of the king of I{u.Lung·u,; The return of the gO\Temor aud his procession to the town was t\nnouuccu by u flourish of drums, fifes, &c., with thl" 13 1J6 JAGUTA. usunl accompaniments of singing and dancing. The musicilms arc now performing before him in a yard which is next to ours. It is between teu and eloven l'.M. ; ' and it is likely that our ears will be stwmed by a combination of tho most barbarous sounds in the world for the remainder of the night. I t is well that I am so fnr recovered ns not t·o cnre about it, or this abomiuo.ble din would drivo me t.o distraction. W"o IlI'O daily assured that tho path is rendered exceed- ingly dangerous by bnnditti; and the governor of this pIneo has been eudeayouring. with a good deal of . 'earnestness, to persuade us that our goods will not be l'cspecLed by them. It will scarcely be believed, ho,,- oyer, that this universa.l drenel originntes from a few Borgoo desperadoes, who, rut.hough only nrmed with powder and a feW" broken muskets, can put 0. whole legion of the timid nntivcs to flight. The inhabitants of the town havo beon firing repeatedly this evening. to deter this forruido..ble foe from sco.ling their wall and taking possession of their to""ll . Satu~'da!l, J.1[aySth.-Last night and the preceding one we were visited by thunder-storms, which did not, however, annoy us, The nntives, as usual, impute the seasonable weather t.o our agency alone j and, in consequence, our o,r1'ival at Ulany places ·hns been bailed wit.h t.ransport, as the most fortunate thing that eould have bappened. It is astonishing to find how extrcQlely pll.l:tinl the rains ba:va been here. I n some districts the gronnd, for this month past, has beon literally cU.'enched, while in others, only Il fow miles di stnut from them, yegeto.tion hus been sufl0ring from a. wnnt of water. E xtraordinary propn1'ations wero rondo by the ""ov01'no1' of Jagutn, to ensure om' safety on the dreaded pathway; and fL. horseman, armed with a sword nnd spear, in company with four foot soldiers, AltRlYJ\L AT SIlEA. 117 who were equipped with bows and several huge quivers full of arrows, were in readiness to offer \1 8 thoir protection this morning. '1' he horseman pre- ceded our party, and played off a variety of antics, to our groat amusement. He seemed not a little satisfied with himself; he flourished his naked sword ovor his head; brandished his spear i made his horse curvet, and bound, and gallop alternately; and his dress beiug cxtrcmely grotesque, besides being old aud torn, gave him au appearance not unlike that of 11 bundle of rags flying through the air. But, with till this display of acti\ity and heroism, the man would have tied "ith terror from his own shadow by moonlight; nud we really regretted that a few defenooless women were the only iudiyiduals that crossett our path to Imt his courage to the test, the formidablo " war-men" being elsewhere. Our journey to-day bas been vexatiously short, not b aYing exceeded four miles j and it is utterly beyond our power to persuade the superstitious natives, who conform only to their fetf$h in these matters, thnt the robbers would be afraid to think of atta.cking white meu. '1' hc town at which we are now halting is called Shea. nnd is defended by a wall. I t possesses "- numerous population. if we may be allowed to form an opinion from tho ,'ast number of indi,iduals that gathered around us. immediately on our entrance through the gateway. A stranger, however, cannot gh'o o.uythiug like l\ correct estimate of the popula- tiou of any inhabited plnco in this pnrt of Africa j for, l\~ ho cau only judge of it by the number of court- yards a town or rillllgc may contain, and as in ooe COUl't-.YIlXtl thel'o may be residing at least a hundred people, aud in the ouo ncxt to it perhaps not more than six 01" sC"cn, tho difficulty will bo immediately perceived. Gcnerully speaking, the description of 11"0 &.i.IEA. on.e town in Yarriba would n.nswor for tho whole. Oleanliness and order may contribute to tbesupe- riori ty of OOG placo over another, which may likcwjso ha.ve tho ad\'lLntll.ges of a rich soil, 0, pleasant neigh.- bonrhood, aod be ol'OI1mented· witu :fine spreadiug and shady trees, but the form of the bouses and squares js cvorywhoro the same: irregular and badly-built clay-walls. ragged-looking tho..tched roofs, and floors of mud polished with COW-d\Ulg , form tho habitations of tho chief VIU't of the natives of Yarriba, compared to most of which l\ common English bo.rn is a l'alaco. 'fho only difi'orenco between the residence of a chief o..nd those of his subjeots lies in tho llum- bel', and not in tbo superiority of his court-yards; and these 0..1'0 for tho most part tcmnntod by womell nud slaves, togot.her with flocks of sheep !lnd goat.s. und abundanoe of pigs and poul try, mixed together iud!scl'iminatoly. Yesterday wo crossed two small rivers, and to~dll.y passed over u. Itu'gel' onc, which wcre nU flowing frow north to south. SIleo, lios four miles E.b.S.of Jagiitn. The governor of the town has presented U,5 ,yith {\ pig, and a qUfI,oMty of country beCI', and we ho.vo nlso received littlo t>reseuts of provisions from a few' of the poople. Sunday, J.l1ay 9''',_\\'0 ngl'oed, rather l'eluct.antly, to witness u.n exhibition of tumbling, ..~ e., tIus U1orn~ lUg. pt'eviolls to quitting the town, il.nd whUo we woro on horseback. This dotained us 1\ little; but as soon ns it W08 OVOl', wo wore eBco~'ted out of tho tow'n by beat of drum, preceded by UJl firmed hOl'semnn n.nd nn UI\Rl'med drummor, and oontinued our journey followed by n. multitudo of tho inhu.bitunts. \Vo passed tlU'ough n. ,-ery hU'ge wnlled to'wn culled Esata/II nbout six miles from Shell. i but ita WIlU is dih'LpidatGd, find tho hn.bitntions of tho people in ruins, and almost AIHU\'AL AT ES.\L.\y' 119 n.ll des~rted. This towD, which was oot long since well inha.bited, has been reduced to its present desolato aud misero.ble sta te by the protection which its ruler grunted to au infamous robber, whoso coutinued assaults on defenceless travellers, and his cruelty to thclU, at l ength o.ttracted the notice of the King of !CMunga. But, previous to this, the inhabitants of anolhOl' to\"'-o, not far oft', many of whom had at ditrol'out times Buffored from his bold attacks, called in n number of Borgoo men, who bore no better roputatiou for honestj~ than the robber himself, nnd resolved to attempt tho capture of the ruffian in his stronghold. without other assistance. Their efforts, howcl'or, wore ulllwo.iling. The governor, entrenched in his wlllloJ. town, and supported by his people. sholtQl'oU the miscreant, and compelled his enomies to raiso the siege. About this tilUe 0. messenger arrived at EsaJay fl'om the King .of Kn.tunga. with commands for the gO\'ernor to deli\"er up the robber to punishment; but, instead of obe);ng them, he pri\'ntoly wo.rncd the man of his donger. who took immediate u.d,·outt'gc of it, and made his escape to Nouflio. The gO\'ernor was suspeoted of niding the ~scn.pc of the robber; and Il second messenger soon aft")r arrived from Katunga, with ordors for the guilty ohief either to poy a. fine to tho king of 120.000 cowrios, or put a pcl'iod to his oxistence by taking poison. Neither of these commands suiting ~he incli~ untion of the go"Cfnor of Bsnlay, he a.ppointed 1\ dcput}. oud pri\'ntcly fled to the neigbbow-ing tOW\l of Sh~l\, there to nwalt the final determination of his oUTngod :)oYcreigu. \\T0 saw ilim at the la.tter town y('stcnluy, dressed in a fa.ncifully made tobe, on which a great nUUlbor of Arah cbaracters were lI titrhcd. ITe walked nbout nt perfect liberty, and did not :.l.('cm to take his coudition much to hcnrt. The 120 OKlSADBA-ATOOPA. inhabitants ofEsalay, finding thn~ their ruler had de- serted them, that they were threatened by the King of Katunga, and that the Borgoo men, emboldened by the encouragement they receiyed from that monarch, were also lurking about the neighbourhood and ready to do them auy mischief, took the alarm, and, imitat- ing the example of their chief, most of them deserted their huts, 8J;ld scattered themseh-es among the dif- ferent towns and villages in the neighbourhood. Very few people now reside at EsaJ.o.y j and this town, lately so populous and flourishing, is little better thun iI. heap of ruins. After we had passed through Esalay. we crossed n. large morass and three rivers, which intersected the road-way_ The croaking from a. multitude of frogs which they contained, in addition to the noise of our drum, produced so animating an effect on our carriers, that they ran along with their burdens doubly as quick as they did bafore. 'Ve then arrived at an open village caned OA:isabba, where wa halted for two hours under the sbadow of a large tree, to aUow some of out men, who had been loitering behind, to rejoin us, after which we again set forwa.rd, and did not stop till we arrived at t.he large and handsome waUed town of Atoop¢, which the latc Capt.ain OIo.pperton passed through in the last al.'pedition. During our ride. we obsaryed a range of wooded hills running from N.N.E. to S.S.W.; and passed through a wil- derness of stunted t.rees, which was relieved at inter- vals by patches of cultivated land ; but there is not so much cultivation as one might expect to find ncar the capital of Yarriba. Atoopa is about twenty miles N.h.E. of Shea, the town in which we slept last night. Monday, llIay IOth.-Anued guides are no longer oonsidored necessary j and we set out tP-is DlOl'ning ATOOPA. 121 only with our Badagry and Janua messengers and intel'proters. On going out of Atoopa, we crossed a ri\for \,·hioh flowed by the foot of that town. where our carriors overtook us, nnd we trilNclled on together. Tho country through which the path lies is unCODl- mouly fine; it is partia.lly oultivated. abounding in ,",ood and water, and appeared, by the number of \>illagos which is scattered over its slUfacc. to be very populous. As we rode along. n. plnce was pointed out to us where a murder had been committed about scyen years ago, on the porson of a young lUan. ITe fell a victim to a party of Borgoo scoun- drels, for refusing to giye up his CODlpa.uion to them. a young girl, to whom he was shortly to be married. ThIJY. fit first, endeavoured to obtain her from him by 1~i.J.' means; but he obstinll.tcly refused to Mcede to their roquest. and contrived to kcep the marauders at bo)' till the young woman had made her escape, \I'hen he, also. ran for his life. He WM closely pur- sued by them; and, pierced by the number of aiTOWS whioh they shot at him, he at length fell doW'll, and ~li(ld ill the path, after hll\'ing run more than a. milo from the plaoe whore the first a.rrow had struck hiro. By tho caro with which this story is treasured up in their memories, nod the earnestness nud horror with which it is teinted, 'YO are inclined to believe that, although thol'o is so great 0. fuss about the Borgoo robbCf$, i\.lld so manifest a drend of them. a murder on th~ lligh,,-u,)' is of Ycry raro occurrence. vVhen this crime is. perpotrutcd, the wholo uation seems to ' be t"rror-smick. nod the people rise up in arms, as if a public eDClUY woro denlstatiog their country, nod slt\ughtcring its inhabitants "lithout. mcrcy, This is UlI,) only instance we have heard of t\ young ma.n (lntcrlt\iuing a. strong a.ttachmeut for t\ female. :Mar- ri;\gu is celebrated by the natives as unconcernedly as 1"22 LEOGUADDA. possible: a man thinks as little of taking a wife 0.5 of cutting.o.n car of corn ; affection is altogether out of the question. A village in ruins, and n. small tOl\"D. called. lVdma, where we halted for u. short time, were the only inhabited piRees we passed through during the day, till our entrance into the town of Leoguadda, which is sun'ollDded by a double wnil, and in which we intend to pass the night. The governor happened to be in his gn.rden, on our arrival, so that we were com· pletely wearied with waiting for him; but as he did not make his appearance, we ourselves found Qut a. convenient and comfortable hut; and, though we were assailed by n. volley of abuse from the mouths of half-a.-dozen women, ,,~e succeeded in sending them away. and we now remain in tranquil possession of our quarters. In the centre of ow' yard is n circular inclosure without a roof, within which is an alligator, that has been confined there seven ycurs. This vora- cious nnima.l is fed with rats only, and he generally devours fixe a day. One of the inhabitants. perceiving that I was rather inquisitive. vohmteered to go to a river in the ,'icinity of the town, and to return in a few miuutes with as many young crocodiles as I might wish for j but, as I had no oPllortn.nit)..- of com'eying animals of this description through the country, I declined the mn.n 's offer, The inhabit.nnt.s of Leogundda, hONing probably no vegetable poison, make usc of the venom of snakes ou the t.ips of their arrows, Tho hends of those SOl'peuts fl'o~ whioh they Cl.·t.ract this deadly substanco are exposed on stioks, which arc thrust into the inside of the thatch of their dwelling as n kind of trophy. Leoguadda is almost surrounded by rugged hills, formed by loose blocks of granite: these, added to fL quantity of taU trees, always green, and growing ARRIVE AT EETCno. 123 within the waUs, render the to\nl inconceivably plcn. snnt and romantic . Immense trncts of land nre cul- tivated in the vicinity of the town, with corn, yams, ~h. ; and abundance of swine, poultry, goats, and shl.!cp, aro bred by its inhabitants. Formerly, ruso, herds of· cattle were to be seen in the mendows; but thl.-y belonged to FoJiUnhs, who, we were told, ficd from Leoguadda some time since, to join their countrymen .t AI6,·ie. Tuesday. Ma!Jl1Ih.- 'Wo left Leogunddn carly in tllO morning, nnd about the middle of the forenoon reached n walled town of some extent, called Eetch6. The place is of importance, on account of a large weokly mouket which is held in it. Eetch6 has r('contly boon more than half consumed by fire, and will not, it i8 suppo$ed, regain its former condition for somo time. Like most. large trading towns, it is ill n~ unsottled nud filtby a state as cnn bo conceiyed. This day's jow"Oey has been highly agreeable; the path h\)' through Il. beautiful country, yaried in many plnccs by bills of coarse granite, which arc formed of Lnrge singlo blocks. heo.ped on each otber. Trees and s.hrub:) of (l. beautiful gl·eou were growing from thcir interstices, and olmost hid tho masses of stono from \·jew. . Tho goyc.rnor of Eetoh6 wolcomctl. us to his town Ycry civilly: but his kindness as yet has extended no further: and, although in all probability he is as opulout as most chiefs ou the rood, yet he did not fvUo\\" their Q.'"(tllllple in giving us proyi:3ions, but left U~ to pT"~uro tbem oursch-cs in the best manner we W('1"e aWe. About 0. stono's throw to the west of the town is the maio road to BQrgooJ .J..YQujJie, HduuoJ ruoorie. &c., six hours' rillo on which would take us out of Y In-riba into the territories of the ICing of Ki..lUla. It is a genoroJ custom here, when auy ·1.24 EE'[CIIO. stranger of consequence approaches Katunga, to send a messenger before hiro, for the purpose of informing the king of the circumstance; and, ns we nre con- sidered in that light, one of our J6nna. guides will set out for the above purpose to-Dlorrow; and we are told that we must remain here till Thursday morning for an escort of soldiers, which wi.ll be sent to llleet us. ,Yo have no inclination for the honour, os it would expose us to a thousand little inconveniences j and we, therefore, intend to avoid it, by leaving this place by moonlight. I t will scarcely be believed, that nov less than one hundred and sixty governors of towns and villages between this plnce and the sea-coast, all belonging to Yarribn. have died from nat.ural causes, or ha.~"e been sluin in w(\r, since I was last here; fWd thnt, of tho inhabited l)laces through which we bayo passed, uot more than a half~dozcn chiefs are alive, at this moment, who received and entertained me. on my return to Bndagry, three years ago. l Vcdnesdajl\ lVay 12tJl. - We were visited last night by a tornado j and it rained so heavily tbis morning. tlmt oven if 'Wo had not been obliged to remain in Eetcb6 to~day, it would have been next to impossible to have pursued our journey. lJ..'he cele· bratecl market of this ploee may be said t? commence about, ll)id~day; at which time tbousands of buyers and sellers bad assembled in a large open space in the heart of the tOWll, presenting the most busy, bustling SCeUG imaginable. To say nothiug of the hUlll and cllltter of such n. multitude of barbarians, the incessant exertions of 0. horrid band of native musicians rendered our own wiccs inaudible. PCOI)Ic from Kahmgn. and other towns of less importance, flocked into Eotch6, to nttend tho market to-day, w.. hich, we arc informed, waS, nevertheless, not 50 well EE'l'cno. 125 o.ttonded as on former occasions ; the rain that had · fallon, and tho alleged danger which besets the path. haYing prevented many thousands from leaving their 0\)"0 abodes. OOUDtry cloth, indigo, provisions, &c., WOre offered for sale; but we observed nothing in the market deserring particular notice. The town is to be woll guarded to-night, for fear of its being attacked whilst 'we remain in it.; and it is given out, that H.ny Que found loitering outside the walls after sUDset, will be seized without ceremony, and his cft'cct.s taken from him. A very ungallant custom prevails at Eetch6 j which is, that every woman who attends the market for the purpose of selling any nuticlo. is obliged to pay a tax. of ten cowries to tho governor: whilst auy individual of the other sox is o.llowed to entor the town and vend his commodities publicly, without paying any duty whate"er. Tlmrsdo!!, ilIa!! 13tit.-"\Jle arose at a very early hour this morning, to undertake the journey to Ka- tunga, which is ra.ther long; and we hoped not only to reach that ci ty before the heat became oppressive, but olso to nxoid, if possible, the escort which we bud little doubt the king would send out to meet us ; yet., notwit.hstanding oW" ;most strenuous exertions, it ,,'as si.~ o'clock before we were all ready to depart. Tho nil' WM cooler than we ht.. . ,'"e felt. it since landing from the Clinker, the thermometer being as low as 710 in the shndo. Tho natives appeared to feel this :5c\'erity of the weather most keenly; for, though they huddled themselves up in their warmest cotton dresses. they were yet. shivering wi.th cold. Hundreds of people, and perhaps if I were to say thousands the number would not be oycrmtcd, preceded and followed \18 ou the- pu.iliwny; nnd, as they ,,;udcd through thick forest::!, nlong narrow ronds, their blue and ._126 ARRIVE AT EETClIOLEE. white clothing, contra-sted with the deep green of the ancient trees, produced an eminently pleasing effect. After a hasty ride of two hours, w'e came in sight of the town of Eet.clwlee, outside of which are numerous trees, and underneath their widely-spreading branches we observed va.rious groups of people seated on the turf, taking refreshment. We joined t,hern, partook of a. lit,tle corn and water, which is 0111' usual tra.elling fare, and then renewed our journey in good spirits; but we had not proceeded a great way, when the escort, about wbich we had been so unea-sy, was descried at a distance, and, approaching us at a rapid pace, joined the party in a very few minutes. There was no great renson, after all, for our modesty to be offended, either at the splendour or number of our retiuM, for happily it consisted only of a few ragged individuals on foot, and eight on horseback: ,,;th the latter was a. single drwnmer; but the former could boast of haring in 'their train men ,,;th whistles, drums, and trumpets, I sOlUldcd my bugle j n,t which the nnti"es were astonished and pleased: but n. blnck trumpeter, jealous of the performance, challenged a contest for the superiority of thc rcspecti"c instruments, which ter- minated in the cut.ire defeat of the African, who was hooted and laughed at by his companions for his pre- swnption, anel gaye up the trilll in despair. I lWNB rend somewhere, that iu ancient time there was a contest between n. nightingolo and :l.fnmous·musician, whose name I 1(\.\'0 forgot; and that the melodious bird, despniriug to equal the diyine strains which wore produced by the minstrel, acknowledged his superiority by folling dead fit his fcct. Now, the disconcerted African did not certainly e).:pire at the moment, but he hung down his hond, remoined silent, looked ex- tremely silly, and did not YcntW'e to 1mb his horn LEAn EEtCn OLE:E. 12; to his mouth again, till he imagined his compnnions bad either overlooked, or in SOUle measure forgotten, his defoat. Among the instruments used on thi s momol'n.ble occasion WllS a. piece of iron, in shape oxactly resombling the bottom of a pa.rlour fire- shovol. I t was played on by Q. thiok piece of wood, Il n ~ 1 produced sounds infinitely less hannonious than " marro"r·bones nnd cleo.vera. " Tho lender of our escort wus n. sth:l.llge-looking, powerful follow, o.lld might v"6ry well ser\'c tho writer of 1\ l·omi\.UCe ns the hero of his tale, in the character of k(leper of an enchauted casUe, when fiorce, sco,yling looks, tenific frowns, and a peculiarly wild expres- sion of countenance, nrc intended to be naturally described; for the lUau's stature was gig-..mtic; his (lyos la.rge. keen, piercing, and ever ill motion; his broad noso squatted over both cheeks; his lips im- mensely la.rge, exposing l\ fine set of toeth; the beard was binck, thick, and grisly. and, eo,rering all the lower pnrt of his fnco. reached to his bosom. The famous Blue Beard WtlS nothing to him; and, in g azing on his features, one would almost be inclined to bolim'e that all tho roost iniquitous and depraved pllssions of hwnnn nature were centred in his heart. 1 ct wi.th so unlovely and forbidding au appearance. the ll)aU is in reality as innocent and docile as a lamb. lie ,,"01'1.' on his head a small rush hat. ill shape like l\ common eurthenwnrc pan inverted, 01' like the hilts which 31'0 worn by the lo\yer class of Chinese. Ilis brcast was em-eloped in a coarse piece of blue cloth; from his left shoulder hung 1\ lnrge quiver of IllTOW'3: nnJ in his right hand h~ held l\ bow, which h(' hl'andi"hed like 3. lunce; a short 1lau' of trousers c~w(lL('d his thighs. and fnntastically-runde leathern hMts incasN his feet and legs. Ilis skin was of jctt)· blackness: his forehend high: but his ESCORT TO KATUNGA. r tremendous beard, which was slightly tinged with I grey, contributed perhaps more than anything else to imp'art t.bat wildness a.nd fierceness to his looks, which at first inspired us with a kind of dread of our t leader. Thus escorted, we travelled onwards; and, after !\ hasty ride of six hours from Eetch6, bebe1d, from n. little eminence, those black, naked. hills of granite, a.t I whose base lies the metropolis of Yarrib:l. About an hour afterwards, wo entered the gates of tbat exten· sive city. As is the cust.om, we stayed under 0, tree, just inside the walls, till the king and his eunucbs were informed of our arriYM; which baying been done, after n. "tYea.ris<;>me dehl.YJ ,,~e rode to the residence I of Ebo, the chief ewmch, who, next to the king, is the most influential man in the place. ,~r e found this personage-a" great, fat, round, oily man "-airing himself under t,he .... erandah of his dwelling. Othe.r eWlUchs, of similar appearance, were sit.t.ing on the ground with him, and joined him in wclcoming both of us (but myself more especially) to Ka.tunga, witb I every appearance of sincerity, heartiness, and good::. will. A conversation, not sufficiently interesting or import.nnt to relate, here took place: it lasted a long. time; a.nd we then walked aU together to the king's houso, which is ttt the distanco. of half a mile from thnt of Ebo. 129 CHaPTER IV. hntnnga- ;\'fansolnb, King of Kntunga-Prccantions 10 nvoid deten- tion by tho King-Apathy of the nlllivcs-i'orarkcl.l of K3tun~ _ DolnyeJ by neighbouring \t'(\l'-Custom relnting to prescnts- Rc,u:rvc of the peoplo concerning their country-Their gcocr.l.l chnl'llctcr-ProgreMl of till} Fnlots.hs- Prep:uutioDs for departure hy [\ now routc_ FClrewoU visit to tho King. INFORlI.A.TION of OU\' coming had been preyiously sent to tho monarch, nnd we wa.ited with much patience for 0. considorable period till he had put on his robes of stote. Meantime, to amuse us and beguile the hour aWRY. the hend dr\IDlmer nnel his assistants, 'rith the- most 'benevolent intention. commcllced a. concert of the most bewitohing melody: nnd long drums. k('ttio dru1U~. nud horns, werc played, with little intormission, till Mansolnh mnde his appca.tnnce, when all noises were suddenly hushed, and we were desired to (iraw ncarer to pay our respects to his majesty. ',,"e did so after the English manner, much to the ('.utcrtailllucnt nnd diyersiou of tho king, who endeavoured to imitate us; but it ,-ras casy to por· ('('iYe that ho is but t\ no\-ice in the European mode of salutation, bO'Yillg and shaking hands. ""'0 hayc no doubt that it was owin~ to the rusticity and uwkwrm:lnc:ls of our t\ddrc~s: that lihmsolah's 'risible fMultics were so strongly excited: for he laughed ~(\ long and hCllli.ily. and his \\'1,-es, and eunuchs. and sulljeets of l\U sorts. joined him with such good.will. nntI such powcr of lung;;;, that we were constrained to unitt' our yoices to the general burst of kindly feeling, ,\lthough. if we hnd bere~ent alone influcnces their actions. In this respect they approach ncal'Ol" to the no.tm·c of the brute creation, than perhaps any other J>eople on the face of the globe. Though tho bare mention of au enemy makes the pusillanimous :Mansolo.h and his tmwnrlike subjects tremble in every limb, they take no measures to prevcne whole bands of strangers fl'om locating in pnOGRESS OF THE F.\L.\T. ., ns. 113 tho finest provincos of the empire, mucb less do tltey thillk of expelling them o,fter they have made those provluces their own. To this unpardouu.ble indif- feronco to the public intorest, and neglect of all the rules of prudence and eomlUon seuse, is owing the progress which tho Falatahs have made in gaining ove~' to themselves a. powerful pa.rty, consisting of individunh> from YIlrious nations in the interior, who had emigrated to this couutry; and the great and tulifol1u success ,,"meh has attended all their ambitious projects. They nre now effectually !lud firmly seated in the very centre of the kingdom j they have entrenched themselves in strong willed towns, and ho.vo l'ccontly forced from Uansolo.h 0. declaration of the-ir indope-udenee ; whil~t this negligent and imbecile monllt'eh beholds thom gnawing IlWfI.y the vory sinows of Ius strength, without making the slightest exertion to Ilpply a r emedy to the evil, or prevent their future IlggrulHli~cUleut. Bc:!idcs Rdka, which is peopled wholly by FaJhtah:!, who ha;\"e strengthened it tllllaz.- lllgly, and rendered it exceedingly pOlmlous, flnother town of prodigious size has Illtely sprung into being, which alrcady far surpasses Katungn. in wealth, llopulation, and extont . It was at fin;t resorted to by u. pa.rt'y of Fal!\tah~. who llt\lliCd it A16rie. find encouraged nil tho ~llwos in the country to flee from the oppression of their masters, and join their stan- dru\.l. '1'hoy romil\ulHI the slaycs of tho constraint uudor w hioh they laboured, and tl:lrupted them by un otfer of freedom ~\nd protection. and other promises of the 1.lwst cxtravagant nature. to declare themselves independent of Yarriba. Accordingly. the discou- ~utQ{1 DlIWy miles rOtUld eflgerly flocked to Alorie in ('(lusiJ.cmble llwubers. whore they wore well received. 'l'his took place as far back as forty years, since which other }'ruatnha hayc joined thcix countrymen frOUl Hi KATUNGA. SQcatoo and RMba~' and notwithstanding the wars (if mutual kidnapping deserves the name) in which they have been engaged in the support and main- tenance ' of their cause, A16rie is become by far t.be largest ~nd most flourishing city in Yarriba; not even excepting the capital it.self. It is said to be two days ' jOUFllcy-tbat is, forty or fifty miles-in circwuference, and to be fortified by u. strong clay wall with mo"at.s. The inhabitants IH1Y6 now vast herds and flocks, and upwards of three thousand horses j w meh last will appear a very considerable number, when it is con- sidered that Knt1Ulga does Dot contain morc than. as many blmdreds. The population of A16rie bas .never been est.irontcd, buJ it must be immense; lately it has beeh declared,; independent of Yarriba; and its iliha.bitauts are permitted to t,rade 'with the natives of the country, on condition that no more Falatahs be. suffered to enter its walls. It is governed by twelve rulers, each of a different nation,nnd aU of equal power; the Falatnh chief not haying more influence or greater sway than the others. Raka is but one day 's journey north-enst of Kntlmga; and AlIJrie three days' jOlU'uey to the south-west. The parly of Falatahs which was l'epo,1:ed to ba;ve tn,ken possession of n. Yarriba town on the bn,nks of t,he ,Moussa.;-nre said to have abandoned it, and to have joined their countrymen at Raka, This intelligence hus been brought hither by hlarket-people, no one haying been sent by the king to nscerlaw the number of the a(hrent,ux~rs, or the object of their visit. HTe(/,n"(?sday. lJfa.1l, 19th,-Tho king ho.,s sent us nothing siuce the day of, om arrivnJ. j and the present then given wns disgraceful in t.he e).'i,reme, as coming from tho monnrch of a large and mighty kingdom. ilis treatment of t.he late Capt.ain Olapper~ou w'ns altoget,he~' the reverse of t,his: A bullock was se.nt KATUNOA. 145 him iUllUediately after the first inten;ew, and a live gQnt, 01' something cquivalent, every day till his doparturo, which included a period little short of ~ovcn weeks. Nor, ill other respects, hn$ the conduct of Mansolllh been such as to give 'IS pleasure; but we can no otherwise account for this, tlum by sup- p08ing onr present to have fallen far short of his os-pectn,tions, and so failed to awaken those good- natured qualities which were displayed at sight of liw iufinitely more valuable, as well as showy one of Cn.ptaiu Ciapporton. But whateV"er may be the reason of it, certain it is that ).[rmsolnh and his subjects h,wc seou quite enough of white Olen; and that the nl.pturo\ls exultation which glowed ill the cheeks of tho first European that visited this cowltry, on being gnzed lit, admired, cflressed, and almost worshipped ns t\ gOI\. joined to the delightful consciousness of his owu immensurable superiorify, will, in the pre· !iont ag" nt least, noYer bo experienced by nny other. Alas! whnt 0. misfortune! The ...· ager curiosity of the natives has been glutted by sa.tiety; a Rum- perm is shnruefuUy considored no lllore than 0. man! twd hereafter, YI'1thout doubt, he ,,;U be treo.ted entirely as such i tiO that. Q1\ coming to this city, he must mnke up his miud to sigh i\ bitter f.\rewell to bI"Q..'\t '50 flesh und mutton. una familiarise his palate to greater delicades. such as lizards, rats. and locustl!, catcrpilJlll'$. and other dainties. which the natives roast. grill. b.\kc and boil. nnd which ho may wash down, if he l,leascs, \"ith dl. . a.ughts of milk-white wl\ler-the only bcyol"Jgc it will be in his power to obtain. I Wl\S desired br 1\ messenger this morning to ,-isit tbe killg at his resiliencc. Md, on my amynl there, fOlluu a grent number of people nssembJc.d together. Tho object of this S\UlllllOUS WI.\8 explained boY Ebo, YQL. 1. L 146 .KA~GA. who said I had been sellt for to see that the present be (the eunuch) had received should be shown to the people without nuy reservation whatever. It was accordingly spread out on the Boor, together ,,;th the king's. Even a bit of English brown soap. which we had just before giY'en to Eba, was exhi- bited along wit·h the other things; for SO great a degree of jealousy exist.s among the eunuchs and ot.hers, arising from the apprehension that one might have ,'eceived morc than another, that Eba himself, powelfu\ as he is, would dread the efl"ects of it. on his own persoll, should he be found to have con- cealed a. single thing. They all, in fact, endeo.vour to disarm censure by an appearance of openness and sincerity. . Th~rsda!l. jfay 20th.-Last night, to our infinite surprise and pleasure, EbQ entered our yard in a great hurry, with the agreeable infonnation that the king had consented to our departure on Friday morning, and thae he would wish us to gee our things in readi- ness by that time. So confident had we been that we should be unable to start bence for a month to COIDe, at the shortest, that we not only sowed cress and onion seed the doy aftol' our arriml (which aTe already springing up), but had actnally made up our min.4.s to abide here during the continuance of the mins. But now we are in hope of reaching Yaoorie in tweiye or fourleon days jaod intend to remain in that city n. short. time, beforo proceeding farther into the interior. The only dro.wback to our pleasure is the misfortune of haying all our horses sick, which may seriously inconvenicnce us in om' I)l'ogress. The old route to Kiama is considered so dangerous, that it is lmderstood we are to be scilt back to .dtoopa. which is two long days' journey from this city, and thenco llroceed on a safer path. Although wc now r~\.n.EWELL TISIT. 147 require but five men, besides am own, to carry the luggago, the king soruples aod hesito.tes to supply us c,'cu with these, a.nd tho youngest of our J erma mes- songers has been nominated to fill the place of one of thom. \\'e are told that it is on account of the Vl\St number of pcople that have emigrated from Katullgn. to Rlka and Alaric, that a sufficient number of can-iers canuot be procured for us; but in so lnrge u. place as this, WhOL>e h"o-thu'ds of the population arc slaves, thi1:l roason seems quite ridiculous, ami we suspect the rcnl ono is tho sume original sin-tho humble ehamc- tCl' of our present. The king, however, haa promised to take his farewell of us to-morrow morning; and. thank God! our hel\lth is so far established that we hOl)O :-loon to accomplish the object of our undertaking. aud returu in safety to Old England. Fridol/, J.lf((l/ :?!.'It.-Instead of 11 visit from the king. which we were yesterda.y told he was to honour u~ with. we woro requested this mOl'ning to repair t.o hit' residence. Accordingly, having first snddled OHI' horses. and packed np the luggage. between six and l:IcYcn o'clock, A.)l .. wc walked together to the royal premises. On our urrh'al , we wero introduced, with· out nuy ceremony, into 0. priyatc yard. wherein the kiug htld heen patiently waiting out' corning for some tim..:! pro,;ou81~~. nc was rather plainly dressed in the co~tuwc of tho country. na.mely. a tobe, trousers. unl l p.audals, with a cup very mueh resembling in $hape those which wero worn by elderly ladies in tho time of Queen Eliznbcth, and which nrc still reta.ined. h,r !iI)I\lC in the more remote parts of Englund. On hi:-l right the eunuchs were reposing their huge limb:- 011 the ground. with scnmd of tho elders of the peQP\":'; nnd his left wus graced by a circle of his ~·ounA' wi,'cs, behind whom ~/l.t the widows of marl' thu.n QUO (If hi8 l)rcdoccssors, mallY of whow appeared L :2 FAREWELL VISIT. aged. A pClformer on a whist.le was the only musician present, so tha,t during ;l,. very long interview a little whistling now and then was ·the only amusement which the prince could afford us. A good deal of discussion ensued, nnel much serious i"bispering between the monarch and his wives, in the course of which both parties quitted the yard two or three times to hold a private conference, followed by the euntlchs, with their hands clasped on their breasts. Mansolah at length sCl'aped together two thousand cowries (about three shillings and sixpence of our JUoney), whj.ch he presenteel to the four men t.hat had accompanied us from Badagry and Jenna as messengers, guides, &c., to emo,ble t.hem to pm'chase pl'oyisions on their journey homeward. This sum had been collected from among t.he king's wives, each having contributee} a portion, becanse their lord nnd master did not bn.ppen to be in a libernlmood. Poor souls ! they possess scarcely tho shadow of royalty, much loss tho substance j-the exterior forms of rospect which they receive froUl tho male portion of tho people alone distinguishing them from their less illustriolls count.r.'irwomen. They are compelled to work ill order to l)rovide themselves food and clothing, ",nd besides which) part of the earnings is applied to the king's use. '1'0 effect these objects, they are necessitated to ma,ke long and painful journeys to disto.nt, pnrts of the empire, for the purpose of t.mclin-g. 'r hey ho.\'o, however) the priviloge of trnvelling from town to town 'without being snbjceted to the usual dut.y> nnd cn.n counn£llld tho use of the governor's houso wherever. they go. The boasted industry of ancient queons and prinoesses. ill more classic regionsJ sinks iuto not.hing when compared to tJlC h\borious life which is led by t.be female branch of the roY£ll f£lmily of Y nrriba. . LEAYE KATUNGA. 149 Mansolah. after somo time, beckoned to us to dmw near him, for we were sitting at some distance ou a bundle of sticks, and, 'with a. most benevolent ~mile playing upon his wrinkled features, he slowly, nnd ,,;hh groat solemnity, placed l1. goorn-nut in the right hnnd of each of us, nnd then asked our names . .. R.iehllrd Il.ml J ohu, " we replied. " Richnrd-ee and .T ohn-ee," snid tho king, for he was unable to pro- nounco our Christian names, without affixing n. 'Vowel to the end of thew, ,( you may now sit down again." , Yo did so, and remainoo iu that posture till we were both completely wearied, when we desired Ebo to ask tho kiug's permission for us to go home to breakfnst. which wo.s gmnted without reluctance. So, huying ~ht\ken hands heartily with the good old man, nnd wished him a ycry long and 11o.ppy reign, we bade him fn.rewell for the lust time, bowed to the Indies, and rotw·uctl. with o.ll haste to our .hut. CIIAPTER V. DOlmrtura from K(l.tungo.-Difficulli~ with tho Carricn-Musicinns (If _HoOIl3.-Towo of Kce~bcc-Curioaity of tho Nati\'cll-Tho F'nh\tah town of Acb..'\ - Cbnrnw:~r of i" IobQ.biulOts _ Tbo Go'\'crllor of Kcesbco an..! hie Wife-Tbeir Supcl"lltition-uavo Kec1bC'O-Rity, and ,rigOUl' of body, and boro n. package containing our tent, &0., whiah, thOllgh VOl)' beavy, was yet by fur t.he ligLt.cst loud of tho whole. Concehing that corporal strength, rn.ther t,hun bulk or height, should, in this case, be taken into account, a bag of shot, woighing 2811s., was oxtracted from J owdio's bllrden, and elaudcs- LinGly added to his. Tho littJo Ulan t,rudged along JOURXEY TO ATOOP~. 151 merrily, without dreaming of th,c fraud th at had been prnctisctl on llim, till ' .... e n.nlvcd within a short distance llf Leoguadda, 'when, ioougining that one end of the tb1\t folt Dluch heavier than the other, be was induced to toke it from his hettd. and presently discovered the cheat j for thc bag ha\ring been thrus t simply insido tho covoring, it could be seen without unla.ciug the package. lIe was much enraged at being thus dl'ceh-ed. n.lld cu lled his companions around him to witness the fact. and said he was resolved to proceed no farther thau Leoguaddn.. Ee then succeeded in persuading them to follow his example i and thus a kind of combination was instantly fOl,ncd against us. As is mmal with us on entering a ·village. we rested a littlo while undor l\ sha.dy tree in Leogundda; and hero wo wero presently surrounded by the murmuring can-iers, with tilO little lUau at their hend. They were furious t\t fi r~t. and gave us to Ullderstand that tbey wou lll go nO farther, (Iud wore drltcrmincd, let the (,Olls<'qllcnec bo wha~ it might, to remain in the town Bil night, Leogundda contained no nccolllIDoda~ions what<'Yer for us; a storlll seemed to be gathering OYer our heads; and AtQopa. was the town in. whiell tho King of Ko.tuDga had advised us to sllOnd tho night. ,"Vo resolved, tilcrefor<'. to go on to that town, ond strenuously cndco.yourcd, by gontle means, to bring oYer the carriers to our views; but these fuiling. wo resorted to their O'nl mode of argument, 1IllUlcly, -fierce looks, violent action, vociferous bawling, aod cxprcssiyc gesture; which llltimidntcd them so rum'h. that thcy sna-tohed up th<'ir bw'dena without Haying u. word, and ran Ilway with alacrity and good Inullonr, These cnrriel"s arc to n.ecoropany us as fn.r tUI the front LeI' town of the kingdom. It ift market-uar at Atoopa. o.Dd, at. n. distanco of ~omc roilei!. from the town. the hum of human yoices T52 ATOOPA.' could be distinctly heard. Just after Out' alTl'fal, a man of note, who is a public singer and dancer, stood before the door of our hut to entertain us with a. specimen of his a,bilities; ~nd he entered with so much warmth and agility into the spirit of his profes. sion, that his whimsical pelformance really afforded us much diversion. The musician had two assistant- drummers in his train, who.se instrument,s were far fl'om being unmusical, and likewise severn! other men, whose pnrt was to keep time by clapping with their hands. The dancing was excellent of its kind, and resembled morc the ElU'opean style than any we had before seeu in the country. The singing wus equally good, the \'oices of the men being clear and agreeable; they snug the responses, and likewise accompanied the chanting of their master ","-ith their voices; indeed they performed their l)art of the entertainment to udmimtion. A fatalde (0. smaller number than a gajllcy) of merchants left Atoopa yesterday for Kiama; and it is likely t.hat we shall overtake them at the nest town. ' 'Vo omitted to ment.ion in yesterday's journal, tha.t to ow' infinite ast.onishment, we saw a middle-aged woman sitt,iug Oll the road-side, the colour of w~,se skin was naturnlly as bright a red as a piece of our own scarlet cloth. ,Ve were informed that she was in good heo.lth} but we were in too grea.t a. hurry to nsk her auy questions, or tuke a nearer vieW' of her person; indeed, our guide seemed much disinclined to go within a hundred ynrds of her. She "~as a most singular-looking being. Sunday, J.l1a!l 231·d.- Though our horses \"ere t.his morning in a yery weak condition, nnd all looked extremely sotTowfu1, yot we quittecl Atoopn. at an early hour, and in good spirits; and journeying in a westerly dil'eotion, in t:wo h01U'S' tame we entered a .\ltnIYE AT BUMDm.{ A}''1) K.:&ESIlEE. 153 liyoly littJe walled town, called B umbum. H ere we dismounted, nnd took a slight refreshmeut of pl\1"ched corn and water, on the tnUlk of a fallen tree. Bumbwu is a. greiLt thoroughfare for fatakie8 of lUtlrcbnnts, trmling n'om lItLnssa, Borgoo, nnd other countries, to Gonjn; and, consequently, a vast qnan- tity of land is cultivated in its vicinity with coru and ynms, to supply them with prm;sioos, On quitt:ing tllis town, our course altered to N.vV., nod continued 80 till ou(' arrival at the large and important town of Kee81Iet', which is on the frontiers of the kingdom, lmd distant from Atoopn, only about twelve milcs. It is :mrrounded by l\ double strong ClllY waH, and is in 1\0 excellent situntion, as l\ place of security from the ntt.t\cks of nn enemy. Before entering this place, and at the llistrmcc of flo milo from it, we passed through n. denn, exten::-iYe, and highly-flourishing Fo.lci:tah ,·illllgC, cRIled ~ leba. which. like most other places in YIHrilm inhabited by }"'nJ.3 ta.hs. is well stocked with l3hcep £Iud cattle. A gon~ruor of Kceshee died only ten days ngo ; and wo wore woll received by his successor, who is !m oid(,l'ly and respectablo looking man. Shortly nfter our uniYfIol, he sent us 1\ present of flo fine ~'OlUlg bullock. 1\ quautity of yams, and more than a gl\Uon of excellont strollg beer. In the ceutro of the town there is a high stony hill, almost. coyered with trees of stunted growth. to which, in CllSO of iuYssiol1 by nn (,llemy. the iu.habitlll1t-s fly for refuge. As soon n~ they hlwe reached its .slUllnllt, it is borne, say tile',. hy t\ s;lpernatuml power. be,rond the clouds, ,,:hcre -it r("lUains till the dangor is oyer. Somo years hal'c ch\p~('d siuce thio,l. miracle last took plnce, yet the story i~ told with (\ serious holief of its truth, llud "ith the mOz;,t tHnus.ing gl'llYity. Abo\lt!l quarter of t\ mile to the u!Jrtl.H~ast of tb.is mo.rycllous hill, rises (l.llother, KEESHEE. which vcry much resembles it in shape and appear~ ance; but the latter is rather larger and higher, and overlooks the country for many miles round. A great Dumber of emigrants from dift'erent coun~ ~~~:,si~~\~:::~ ~l~~~:r~~:,n~!da t~~~" o~rot~e~o~l~: ricks. from the borders of the Great Desert. To the west of the to"'U is 0. picturesque hill of a gentle ascent, on which nre several small hruulets. These hamlets have a rural nnd eminently beautiful appear. ance. In no town through wmch we ha\'c hit.berto travelled, have we seen so many fine tnU men and goocl-Iooking women, as at this place; yet several individuals of both sexes ure to be mct with who have lost the sight of one eye, nod others who have un- seemly weus on the throat, as IIn'go as cocoa~nut$. We have likewise seen a cri}>ple to-day for the firs-t time, and a female dwarf ,,·hose hoight scarcely ex~ ceeds thirty inches, and whose appearance bespeaks her to be bctween thirty and forty years of age. Her head is, dispropol'tionnbls largo to the size of bel' body; her feahu'es, like her 'foico, are harsh, mascuJinc, and wlplcasant in the extreme. It would be ridioulous to bo afraid of such t\ diminutive thing i yet t~ro was au cXI>ressiou in her countenance so peculinrly repulsivc, lUlwomanly, anel hideous, that on her ap~ pl'oaching our JlUt, I felt t\ yery unusual and disagree-- able sensation stenl over me. Descriptions of an elf or 11 black dwarf ill tile" Arnbian Nights' Entel't1lin~ ments," or modern Elu·ol)en.n romlUlces, would sen'e well to ponrtray the fOI'Ul and lineaments of this Stn- gnior little being. This is n. market-dny here, and I took n walk this eycrung to the pla.ce whore the llltH'ket is held i but the crowd that gathered round me was so great, as to compol mo to return home much sooner than I hnd KEESnE.E. 155 intended. I f I bappened to stand still ("'en for fI rno~ mont, tho people pressed by thousands to get close to me; and if I attempted to go on, they tumbled one o"er another to get out of my way, overturning !'ftandings nnd calabashes. threw down their owners, !lad scnttercd their property about in all directions. Smiths woleorned me by clashing their iron tools ugaiust cneL other, and drummers by thumping "10- leutJy upon oue end of their instntIDents. A few womt'n and children ran from me in n fright; but the mnjority, less timid, a})proached as ncar as they could to catch n. glimpse of the first white mnn they had evor seen. My appClJ,rllllCe i1cemed to interest them amazingly, for the~' tittered and wished me well, and turned I\hollt to titter agam. Ou rotlU'Ding, the crowd became morc demle dum ovor, and drove nil hefol'i~ them like a torrent. Dogs, gonts. sheep, and l)oultry were borne nlong agninst their will, which terrified thom so much, tha.t nothing could he heard but noises of tho most la.mcntnble description; ch11- dr~n screnm"d, dogs yelled, sheep and goats bleated 1U0~t piteously. tUltl fowls eackled and fluttered from n.mong th" crowd. And hn,ppy indeed wns I to shd~ tel' m~·self from all this uproar in our own yard, whi~ ther the multitude dared not follow. The widows of the deceased chief of KeC$hec da.ily set npnrt a portion of the twenty~four houl'S to ery for thoir bCl'C't\YCUlout, nud prny to their go(ls. 'rhey began tills ef"cning in the ::;tlD.le sad. mournful tonc which i$ cOllllllouly heru'd ou ~iruilar occasions. uil oycr the CllUutry. \Vc as.kc-d our interpreter why the women grieved so bitterly. lIe auswered quickly-" "'bat mntter? the'y laugh directly." so· I suppose they er~- from habit mlhcr than from feeling: a.nd that th('y can. shed t('a11; and be merry in thc same breath, ",hene-yer they please. About S(,YCD o'clock this 156 PALATADS OF ACBA. oVClling, WO hearel a public crier proclaiming with 0. loud \,oieo, thnt should any Que be discovered strng. gling about tho streets after that hour, he would be seized and put to death. Many houses in the town boxo Intol), been sot on fire by incendiaries, find tins most likely has gi\len rise to tho above precautionary measure. A/ol1da.tf. May 24t/I.-'Vc have been compelled to remain hero to-day, through the ga\-ernor's inability to procure us carriers for the luggage. The number of people who h(l."o visited us to-day has boen 50 greut, und their coml)nny so irksomo, that we were 11cl'picxc(1 for some tiUle how to get rid of them with. out ofronce. One party in pal-ticulnl' was so unplcn- Mut, and they so seriously incommoded us, that we Imd recourse to the unusual e;..:pe<1ient of smoking them off, by kindling a fire nt the door of our hut, before which they were sitting. It succeedod o.gree· nbly to our wi~.hes. A compnny of women nnd girls fl·om the Fnl.1tah village of Acoa, impelled by 0. curiosity so natuml to thei,· sox, 00.1110 likowise to sec us iu the afternoon; but their socioty, instoad of being disngrccnble, os the eompfl1ly of nIl our other ,·isitors .pro\'e(l to be, was hailed by us with 1,1005u1"o. For these fomoles arc so modest and so retiring, o.n<1 e"ioco so much native delicacy in theil' whole beha,;ow', thnt they excited in us the highest resl)cct. rJ.'hcir personal attractions are no les8 wlnning. They ho.\'e nne spl\rkling jotty eyes, with cye.lashcs dark and glossy aR tho raven's pillOlO. l'hoil" fcntm'es arc ngrcenble, although their complexions aro tnwny. lJ..'heil' genernl form is 010· gallt, thoir handa sJ))nll nnd dclicz\to; and the l)ccliliar clcanlinoss of their pCl'l>OnS, nud llCll.tuoss of dross ndded Lo these, rcndel'od tJlCir aociety altogether ns do-- aim-ble as thl1t of their neighbours was (lisagrcon,blo. DIE GOVERNOR OF KEESURE. 157 The F aIn tahs inhabiting Acha were all born anel lH'cd in that town. rr heir ancestors settled in the country at so remoto a period, that, although we made inquiries respecting it, our questions ,yere unavailing, and, 'in fact, not even a tradition has been preserved on ~he subject. These" ohildren of the soil" lead a harmless, tranquil, and sober life, which they never suffer passing eyonts to disturb. '1'hoy have no ambition to join their more restless and enterprising COI\l\trymen who ha.ve made themselves masters of Aloric and !t:\ka, nor e'-en to meddle in the private or Imhlic concerns of their nem' neighbours of Keeshee. InJcod. they hi.we kept themselycs ll>part and distinct from nU; they have retained the langnago of their fathers and tho simplicity of their manners, and their existence glides serenely and happily away, in the eujo}lUont of the domestic pleasures and social tender4 ness "hich aro found in ciyilised society, and whicb nrc unkno,nl among their royiug countrymen. They nrc on the best possible terms with their neighbours, like the F nJatahs at Bol100, and by them they are heM ill gret\t respect. rt'he go,-ernor of Kecsheo is a Borgoo man, and hoasts of being the bosom friend of Yano, chief of Kiama ; but fiS the old man told us many wonderful stories of tho number of towns under his sway, bis amazing power, grent influence, and the entire sub~ jcctioll in which his 0\\'"11 peoplo were kcpt by his own good goYcrnmont, nll of which wo listened to with patiencc, we Ilrc inclined to believe that the governor's pretensions are as hollow as. they arc itnprobo.ble. As to his goYernment, ho gave us l\ gl1ccimen of it by ba.wling to a group of chiltiren, that hud foUowed our steps into the yard, to go about their husillCSS, But eyers one in this country displays this ridiculous yUtlity j und in most of the towns we .158 TnE GOVERNOR OF KEESIIEE. have visited, it was t.he first great care of their chiefs to impress on our minds an idea of their vast import- ance, which in mnny instances was refuted by their ragged tobes and squalid appearance. Yet, if their own nccounts nre to be credited, their affiuence nnd power are unbounded. To tlus vain-glorious feeling they sacrifice tl'Utb, which in almost all cases they highly reverence, and make themselves truly ridicu- lous by their absurdities. In our case, however, they had white men n.nd strangers to deal with; and per- haps it is natural, among simple barbnrians, to court admimtion and applause, even though they cmploy no other meallS than exaggeration and falsehood, After a deal of talking (much more, indeed, than we can now remember), the governor of Keeshee begged the fnNom' of 0.. little rum and medicina. to heal his foot, which is inclined to swell and give him pnin ; and requested that we would repair a gun which hod been deprived of its stock by fire. He then sang tiS a ditty in praise of elephants tUld their teeth, in which he wns assisted by rus cane-bearer, nnd after- wards took his leave. "'0 have received little })l'e- sents of gooro.. Duts, snIt, honey, mi-cndanio. butter, &c., from several of the inhabitants of the town. It WtlS new moon on SatUl'dny, and, from the rains which have since fallen, it is likely that hencafol'th we shall have much wet weather. Tue6da!!, i)'la!! 25tlt.-Somo hlnllams, and other" ""ho wish to accompany us to Kiama, "luther they are going fo), tho purposes of tmde, persuaded the easy-minded goycruor lust night to defer getting us carriers till to-morrow, bc('auso, forsooth, they M'e not l)l'evared to travel to-day. 'Vo are thereforo obliged to await the further plensuro of theso influen- tint merchauts. Thus balked in our ex.pectations, after our l\l~nge had all been l)acked tI}) for our THE GQt,ERN"On 01-' KEESllEE. 15~ ~tMting, I endeavoured to amuse myself enrly in the nloruiug. by scrambling to the top of the high and stoop hill which stands in the middle of bhe town. III my progress I disturbed a tiger-cat from his retreat among tho rocks, but Wfi8 rewarded for my iOlbour by 0.0 oxtonsi\'Q and agreeable prospect from lho..summit of this mountain, which I foulld to consist of large blocks of white marble. Tho town, with its double wall, perfol'atecl with holes for bowmen to shoot through, lay at my feet, and several little rural villages studded the country on every tlide. The governor of Kecshcc is so old and infirm. that it ill evi.dent ho has not many years to live. I gave biro n lotion ycstcrduy for (L. swollen foot, which greatly ela.t()u one or two of his at.tcndants: and their ,lonimllleu looks nud gestures bespoke henrts ovel'~ Hawing WiUl grateful feelings; 80 muoh so, indeed, that we remarked the circumstance as being of l"I\ro occurrence. This warning a young man, oue of the number, visited U$ with a COllutCllt\ncc so rueful, and spoke iu l\ tono so low and melancholy, that his whole I\ppeara.nco "~l\S completely tlltercd, insomuch that wo wera desirous to lea.rn what evil had befallen him. '1'hc cause of it was soon explained by his informing us tho-the would bo doomed to die with two companion8. ru! soon as their goveruor's dissolution should take plMc; and as the old wau ba alret\tly ono foot in the grave. the poor follow's sadness was not to btl wondered nt, \\l)on this Sllmc indi\idual t\utl h.i~ a&iocio.tcs obsenTcd rue giving the lotion to their master yesterday, they imagined it woulU pro~ lout; his existence, and COill-cqucntly lengthen their owu; tlllU hence arose that burst of feeling which ht\d attrll.('tcll our a.ttcntion. Tho l)coplc here imagine \\C CUll do.) northing, but more especially that we aN 1;60 KEESIIEE. acquainted with, nnd cnn cure, all the complo.ints and disorders to which man is liable. The governor solicited a charm of us to-day, to preseryo his houso from the effects of fire, and cause him to become rich; while ODC of his elderly wives made a doleful complaint of having been likely to become a mother fOl' the last thirty years, and begged piteously for medicine to promote aud assist bel' accouc/(ement. 'Vo could satisfy t.he old man easily enough, but his wifc's bypochollch'iacnl complaint we conceived too dangerous to be meddled with by un- professioual hands. Poor womnn! she is much to be pitied. for the odd delusion under which she bas been la.bouring so long a time hns given her considerable uneasiness, so thnt life itself has become a burden to her. All tho t we could do for hor was to sootbe her mind, by tolling hor that her dist.omper ,was very common, and not at all dangerous; and promisillg that, on our return t,hia wny, should nothing transpire io her favour in the wenn time, we would endeavour to remove tho cause of her complaint. This com- forted tho aged matron exceedingly; and, in the fullness of her heart, she btu'st into tears of joy, dl'opped on bel' knees to express her acknowledgment, llnd pressed us to accept a couple of gooro.. nuts. - Our engaging female friends. the Falatahs, paid us a second visit this mornllig with bowls of milk and foorn; and in tlle e"ening a fow of their malo com- panions also came. aod remained with us a consi- derable time. Both sexes displnyed the same timid reserve in our presence, and deported t.hemselves in tho same respeotful manner thfL.t they did yesterday. It a})pears that the F alUtabs inhabiting Acba, though very numerous) nre but ono fnmily.; for we are told that their ancestor separated himself from his friends, relatives, and acquaintances, and, REESIIEE. 161 (':ciUng himself for c,'cr from his nat ivc country, ho tro,velled hither with his wi,'es and children, his flocks and herds. 1'he sons and do.ughters of his desccndnuts intermarry only among their own kin- dred. and they arc betrothed to each other in infancy nud childhood. The little that I have seen of F aJiUahs in Yarriba has conyinced me that in all things they are much, very much. superior to the loveless and unsocial proprietors of tho soil. Their countenances bespeak more intelligence, and their manners dis- pIny (ess roughness and barbar~sOl. The domestic Yirtues of the Falatttbs are also more affectionate and cudcnring. and their fn.mily regulations lUOftl chaste and binding. lI~edll{w'o'l. ,i1l011 26th.-\Ye nrose before sunrise thiR mornill~: llnd 11uYing little to do in the way of pl'opn!'ntiou for setting out, wo took n hasty breakfast, and uftcrm.ll'u:.- wcnt to pay our respects to the gOY""\'\lor, and thank h im for his hospitality and goodltc~ to illI. On rctW'ning to our lodgings, we had the lllcnslll'c of rocoi"ing tho morning saluta.tion of (lur fair friends the Fll..lltahs on bended knee. Rcsohcd to lun'o another and a last chat with the white stn\ugc~, thcse females bad come for the purp08c of otl'eriug u.s two cruabilshes of new milk. 1'hiil. nnd fomler little acts of kindness which we IH.\Y(' r('('eivcd from these dark-eyed maidens, lul.\'c cftcctuallJ won our regard, because we know they wero di~illtcrcstcdlJ gil"lm; and tho few minutes which wc hn.vc had the bal1piness of spending in th('ir company, nlld that of their countrymen, have r('u('l~tu('J wany hours of listl('~neS$ and melallcholy, whidl nb,cncc from our natiYC C'ollntry. and thoughts of howl' nllll fri"::lUh;. but too often excite ill om bt'('I\~t~. It Wll~ therefor(, uot without a feeling of /lorN)\\ thM we hade them adieu. For my own part, ,"OL. l. 162 LEAVE KEESHEE. when they blessed me in the name of Alia and their Prophet, and implored blessings on my he,ad, and when I gazed upou t.he faces of the simple-hearted and innocent females who had so piously and fer \Tently invoked the benedictioll, with the consciousness of beholding them no more in this life, my heart was touched with sorrow; for of all reflections, this is certainly the most mela.ncholy and dispirit.jug! ((Ye, who have known what 'tis to dote uJlQo A fow dear ohjects, will in sadness feel Such partings break tho hear~ thoy fondly hoped to hell !" There was less of feeling and tenderness, certainly, though more words and much great.er noise, in taking our farewell -of the two old messengers that had accompanied -us from Badagz;y, and who, with the Jennu. guides, will return homewards to-morrow. They have behaved themseh'es throughout to our' hea,rts' desire; and because they had been our com- panions in it long and painful journey, and because t,heir faces. had become familiarised to us, we left them behind with .sincere regret. Although we left Keesllee between sL'( (md seven in the moming, we were obliged to seat ourselves on a green turf in the outskirts of the town; and wait t·here till a quarter after nine, before the carriers.Jrith the luggage made their apRcarance. Here 'We were joined by n. Borgoo /ati'ikie. an(t our cars were saluted with the b.ol\rse, dull sounds of their drum, which was played b)'~ a ragged one-eyed Yarribean long after we were on our journey. A compuny of merchants trading thtough the country has always a drummer in their pay, who wo.lks at the heael of the party, and performs on his instrument continually, be the jow'ney e\'er so long, for the purpose of animating t·he slaves to quicken their stc.ps. Our rout-e lay through a yust ana lonely forest, ARRI YE AT TIlE "MOUSSA. 163 lI, rested by bands of robbers, n.lld in which thore is not 0. single huml1.n habitation. My brother went unnmled boforo tho /atil/.;'ie, and trayolled a100e, '\ hilst I romaincd behiod to defend tho carriers in <.'1\)\0 of Il ecossity. He h ad n.lt·eady r ode SOIlle disto.nee in ndvauce of us, when about twenty very suspicious- l~)Hkillg fe llows, armed with lanccs and bows nnd UrI'OW8. suddenly made their appearance from behind tht' trecs, where they had concealed themselYes, and '!toou in the middle of the path before the mell 'with the luggage, who woro so terrified, that they were pr~po.rillg to drop their burdens and run away. My g'un being IOl\ded, I levelled it at them, and had nel\r1y Ji~(:bnrged it at the leader, which intimidated them t\U so mut'b, that they retreated again into the henrt of tho forc~t. Wbcn the people of Yarriba obser\'e ttll" one approaching them on the road, whose appcl\rt\Ut'e inspires thcm with a}>prehension as to til(' honesty of his intentions, they fling off their llli\ds without waiting the result ot the meeting, ond tt\ke to their heels without yenturing to look behind lht!m. The robbers, therefore. when they saW' our people, no doubt expected to obtain an easy booty; not .mticipa.ting to find a white man among them, nor thinkiug that our carriers would huve made a. Rhmd. \V e journeyed fiftocn miles through this dreaded fO l'CM, which occupied us nyc hours and three-quarters, O\\;ug to the weakuess of our hon;cs and want of WI\tCf. but above aU to the oppressh'e heat of the Wt'Mher, from whillh we all suffered more or less. W" u th~u t\ft'lved a.t the .Jfo1(,'lsa, which is a rivulet qcpl\fU.ting the kingdom of Yarriba from Borgoo. llllywg satisfied our tlllrst and bathed. we cros"cd the strt'at\\, and cutct'cd a little "iUage ou the u\\rth~ru bank, whore we halted for tho day. y2 16:1- MOUSSA. J Vvbon tl'twolliug in the busb, Boveral men in the trniu of 0. fatakie wear a large iron ring on the thumb nnd middle finger. To the la.tter Q piece of plate-h'oD is attached, with which they make sigoo.ls to each othol' ond the fatiikic when npnrt by clinking the rings. Tlus method of communication is very significant, nnd it is understood as well, Ilnd is as promptly answered or obeyed, as our boatswo.iu's whistle. The collision of the rings l)roduces 0. harsh. gmt.iug noise, loud enough to be heard (1t a. considcl'- aUlo distance. Tho lUcre crossing of t\ little stream, which a person might almost j\lmp over, bas introduced us into a country ycry different from Yarribo.. which is inhabited by 0. diiferent people, \dlO speak 1\ different Inuguagc, pl'ofess It different religion, and whose manners, cus- toms, nmuscments, and pursuits nrc altogether dif- forent, '1'be "illnge ill whioh we nrc stopping is cn.llod llfoWJ8a, nfter the riYor. and .is rnslQnt from Keeshco, in (\. nOl't,horly direction, as Den.rIy as wo caD gucss, nbout sixteen miles, '"c occupy 0. large round hut, called by the natiyes of this country Oalamba" in tho ITaussa lo.ngungo Zowie,l/, no<1 ill Bomou Ooozie, In tho celltl'O of it is tho truuk of n. la.l'gc tree, which supports tho roof: it h0.5 two uper- tm'cs fol' doors, which nrc opposite euch other; uud diroctly OY01' them, 8uspondud from tho wall, arc n. eouplo of chanus, writton ill tho 1\1'o,bie ohumctcr on bits of papel', which al'c to presenc the l)I'cmisea from being destJ.'o,yed by firo. It is now ohweu p, M. ; our o.ttcudnnts, with sovorol of t.hcil' fcllow-tnwollcrs, nrc rcposing on mats ond skillS in Ynriolls l'nl't.s of tho Imt. Bows nud arrows find (luivol"s ol'nomonted with cows' tails, togother with liuskets, pislois, swords, lanocs, and athol' wcal)on8, nrc eithcr bunging on bhc wull or rost.iug against it. tllho scono is wild Q,ud :\COUSSA. 165 singulnr. and quito romantic. Outside our hut it is yet more striking. Thoro, though it rains and thunders, the remainder of the /atakie, consisting of men, women. Bud children. are sitting on the ground in groups. or sleeping near soyeral large tires, which are burning almost close to the hut; whilst others are lying under the shelter of large ~pr('adi ng trees in its immedinte ylcinity. Their only oppord is drawn o,'er their half-naked persons; their wco.pous are .at their sides j and their horses are grazing nenr them. Most of the people have gone to rest without food: yet they sleep soundly. and appenr quite happy nnd comfortable after their day's exertion nnd fatigue. One of our men fainted on the road tQ-Jay from es..haru;tion, and is now feverish and UUW(lU. 71",rmIJ11 • .J.llall 27tJt.- Thcro is a. sweetness in the UlO\lllt~in air~ tlnd a dewy freshness in the illOlTl- iug. which we experienced to-da) with considerable })leasuIo, on ascending tho hills which border the JlOrthcrtl side of the protty little 111oussa. '"''ben ,\ild beasts. tired with their nightly prowling, seek reti~m('nt nnd repose in the lonely depths of these pnm<'\'lu forests, and whell birds, perched on the bnlnches of trees O,'C1' our heads. warble forth their morning ~ong. it it) the time that makes up for the la.nguid. wearisome hours in the heat of thc dill'. when nothing can amuse and nothing interest us. It is in th0 carlier llart of the morning, too, or in the <.'001 of the en~ning. that nntW'e can be leisurely cont('mplt\tcd nnd admired in the simplo lo.clines.~ of a verdant plain. l~ sequestered grotto. or a rippling UI."OOk: or in the wilder and more UlYsterious fenturcs o~' hef beauty in the height of il craggy precipice-. the sllcncC' t\ud gloom of "tlst s.hady woods. or when th~e wOOtls arc gracefully bending to the passing g-Jle. 166 RO.\D TO KlAMA. An hour's ride brought us near the site of a town which was formerly peopled only by robbers. It was, ' howevor, destroyed some years ago, and iu inhabit- ants either slain or dispersed, by order of the present spirited ruler of Kiima, siqce which time the road has been less dreaded by travellers, Our path lay through a rich country. covered with hLuu1ant grasses and fine t.l'ees, but yery little underwood could be seen. It abounds plentifully with deer and antelopes, and other wild animals of a more ferocious nature, such as the lion, the leopard, the elephnut, the wild ass, &0. ; but the solitary lowing OP a buffalo was the only sound that we distinguished in the forest, and we had not the pleasure of meeting cyen with this animal. At elc,'cn o'clock we entered a very small and clennly-looking village, where we halted for the du.y. Unfortunately, its governor, with most of. the people', wero at work ill the £clds at some distnnce, so that we could get nothing to cat till rather late ill the evening. It appears that these poor villagers are forced to supply the soldiers of their sovereign with })l"ovisions gratis, whenover business leads them so fut' this way from the capital; and that, in order-to avoid, the rapacity of these men, they hl.\vO built _ auother hamlet in the woods, far out of the way of the path, whither t.hey CUrl'Y their goats, '&c., and the corn of whioh they may not be in immediato want. On arrivinn', we :wel'e introduced into a sman grass hut. which s~oke has changed into the most glossy blaok we have ever seen; and the interior of its roof is ingeniously decorated with large festoons of cob- web nnel dust, which must have been nccumwo,ting for a number of YOUl'S. Its fetisb is a dried gl'ass- hoppel', which is preserved in a little calabush ; hut M ESCORT FROM KIA-MA. 167 if this werc insuffic ien t to protect it from all the damages to which buts in this country are conswntly nposcd, auxiliary charms of blood and feathers nrc likewiso stuck on the inside of the wall. At sunset, not having anything to eat, I went out into the wood )\ ilh my guo, and was fortunate enough to shoot a 1'ew doves; and Pascoe, who wont in a different t1il'('otion, shot a Guinen. hen, which made us an ex- ('QUcnt supper IIunger had driven back our Keeshce C'nrricrs, who were to have accompanied us to Ki3:ma, and thorofore we have been obliged to send a mes- !lenger to Yarrow, for men to supply their place. Lo.to in the o"ening, the governor 'of the "illage l,cturIl<.'d fl'om his labour in the fields, and presented \1:1 witll corn antI honey. Fridwl, iVaI! 28th.-I n the forenoon, the musical jin,gHng ·01' littlo bells announced the approach of a hOtly of bor~emeo. who in less thlill a. minute gallopped lip to our hut, and saluted us on(' after anolher with n martll\l nu\ by bntndishing tbeir spears, to our gn.'u.t di&'omfiturc, within a few feet of our faces. '1'0 disphLY their horsemanship more effectually, they caused their spirited steeds to prance and rear ill our presence; and when they imagined we were con- viuced of thoir abilities, they dismounted to prostrate tllC'lUt'ehcs before us, and acquaint us of the wclfare of their priuco. The carriers who had arriycd fl'om i{iima had preceded them on the road, and the whole Qf the men now sat down to partake of a little re- frcshmcnt. It WI\S twelyc o'clock exactly when wc tiet out on our jomuey, and the day being so far nd- \"I\o('od, 'YO wished to mo.kt:l all tho haste possible, but tiw w('a.thcr WtlS extremely warm, find our horses " ..... 1'(' bnnUy strong enough~ to carry their riders, so thnt we were obliged, after nU, to travel yery slowly, ,\t nyc p,:\!. we reached tho ruins of (L small town .. IBfl LEAVE BE?HKE'NXY. The path 'vas through the Sllme forest as yesterday, but this part of it is less thickly wooded. At one place we remarked two immensely large trees, spring~ iug up almost close together; their might" trunks and branches were twisted, and finnly clasped round each other, like giants in the act of emhra-eing, and presented an appearance highly novel and singular. Ant-hills were DUUlcrous in the road; and a. few paces from it, we observed, as we rode along. little cone-shaped mud-buildings. erected by the natives for the purpose of smelting iron ore, which is found in abundance in different pn.rts of t.he country. At sunset we arrived at a. village called Benikenny, which meaDS, in the languago of the people, "a cun- ning man;" and found there three women waiting our arrival with corn o..nd milk from the King of KiamC\,: this was vcry accept.able, fot' we had been without. food thirteen hours. 'Va rest,ed at Beni- kenny a little, and fnlly expeated to hava slept there, for the afternoon bad been excessh'ely "ann, and we were all much fatigued. But our anned escot't were not in the same way of th.inking as ourselves, and th.ey encouraged us to proceed to another village l which t.hey said was at no great dist.ance, 'Ve there- fore quitted Benikeuny; yet no ,'illage could be seen; and then the escort confessed t.hat thoy had deceived \lS, in order that we might arrive at Kinma before night. The sun had gone down on our quit- ting the halting-}>lilCe ; but the moon and stars sup- l>lied us with a coolor and lUOl'e agreeable light; and we journeyed on through the fOl'ust more slowly than beforo. III spite of Oill' fatigue, we could not help admiring the serenity nnd beauty of the C\'cumg, nor be insensible to the delioious fragronco shed around frQOl trees and shrubs. The appearance of our warlike nud rOlllt\nt~c escort "wns o.lso highly ARRIVE AT KLWA. 169 nmU3ing. They were clad in the fashion of the East, nod sought their way between tho trees on our right 1}J)(1 10ft; but sometimes they fell in our rear, and thoo a.gain dashed suddenly by 1.18 with agtonishing swift.ness, looking as wild ag the scenery through wmoil their chargers bounded. The effect was ren- uerc-d moro imposing by t he reflection of the moon- beams from their polished spears and the pieces of sil,'':)]' affixed to their caps; while the luminous fire-fly l\ppcll.red in the air like rising and falling pa.rticles of flamc. My brother's horse Wag unable, from weakness and exhaustioll, to carry him fa.rther than Benikenny; so that ho was obliged to walk the remainder of the journe,Y to Ki.hnn, which is full six miles. About eight 0 'dock Kilhnu. a.ppenred bofore us, and in 0. few miuutes wo entored tho city, t\Ild rode directly to tho kiug's house, He camo out to recciye us after we hild been wait ing outsido n yel~ short time, and wolcomed us "ith much satisfi\ction and good-will, He it! &u elderly man, lllmost toothless, and has fI. beard as white n.s wool. ,Yo observed nothing remarkable ill his dress or appearance. His nrst question was ooncerning the health of our aoYoreign, and bis second fI.nd las.t rC$peoting our own welfare. He seemed to bo exceedingly well pleased at soomg me aga in. W' e then took our leave, 8>nd wore conducted by one of his shwcs to ~\ hut, or ra,ther an assemblage of huts, u(ljoining his own residence. But they wero not entirely to our sutisfaction, for many of them had only one ll}X)rture in each. which was scarcely three feot square: so thtl.t we could not get into them. cxccpting on OlU' hands and knees, They were. besides., so YCI'," closo and warm, that we found great Jifticulty in br~athing; and we preferred a hut 'which \\,,\3 ~OQlur uud bettor ,routilated, though it had the -j70 KJA:\!A. inconvenience of a thoroughfare. No sooner were we securely housed, than half a dozen of the king's wives illtroduced themselves with huge calabashes of sour milk, fried pancakes, and beef stewed in ,rice, the first we have yet seen. Various coloured mats of excellent workmanship were a.fterwards brought for our use; and with thankful hearts and comfortable feelings we lay down to rest. - CHAPTER VI. Kiamn-Visit to the King- Wooden Figurcs- Ynrro's Hut-His objection to tho former route to W OWO\'l' ooing adopted by the Travellers-InstanC(l of Na.live Friendship- Mohammedan Pricsts-Theit' CI1!lrncter-Tradilion of the FllliHahs- Cere- monies of theBl'buD Sdlah-Celcbrntior: of tbe Festival- N3tivo Horse-racing-The King's Solis-Poisonous Lizard- Supersti- tion or the Nlltivcs--Comparison between the Nllti\'cs of Borgoo nnd Yn.rrib:r..-Tr.:l.its of Charncter-F:r..lat.:r..hs- Law relating to them. Saturday, ~fay 29th. - Til'ed with yesterday's journey, we lay on our mats rather later than usual j and, before we had arisen, the king's messengers.and others cntered our hut, to give us the salutations of the morning. I returned Yarra's compliment by calling to see him at his o'wn house, while my brother remained at bomc, to take care of the goods. The natives of t.he country. huving a very indifferent reputation for hOllcsty, compel us to keep a watchful eye oyer aU their actions. A number of maDams from Haussa paid us a visit about t.he middle of the day; but n. body of more ignorant Mohammedans, I should suppose, can nowhere be found; for not. one of them, evcn to their chief, who has a youthful appearance, understands a word of Arabic. 171 J ust befol'o SUDset. my brother selected n. present, ('onsisting oftbc following articles, for the king :-viz., :,ii:\: ynrlls of red cloth. a quantity of printed cottons, a l)air of silver bracelet-s, a looking-glass, two pairs of suissors, n. knife, two combs, oud a tobacco-pipe. Tb~ goods hrwing been properly sccured, we repaired \\yith this present to the king, ,yho received it with much apparent satisfaction. Yarro professes tho Mohammedan faith; yet it is easy to perceive tho ycry slender ncquaintance he bM obto.incd of tho precepts of the Korllll, by the con- fidel\cc which he 8tm places in the religion of his fn,tbcn, in placing fetishes to guard the entrance of his hom~cs, and ndllfu their half-naked w-aJls. In ouo T72 KLULf: of the huts we observed a stool of very curious work· manship. The form of it is nearly squa.re. the. two llrmcipnl sides of each supported by four little wooden figures of men: and another, of large dimensions, seated on 0. clumsy representation of a hippopotamus, is placed between them. These images were subse- quently presented to us by Yarro; aIid we learnt that the natives, before underth.king flny water excursion, applied for prot.cctiou from the hippopotami and other dangers of the river. to the principn:1 figure, which is represented a.s mounted ou one 6f th03C Crca·tufOS. This impol"Utut personage is attended by 173 174 DAM!.. his musicians, and guarded by soldiers, some armed with muskets, Qud others with bows and arrows, who fonned the legs of the stool. In the a,nnexed sketch, which is about one-seventh the size of the original, he has been placed on the top of the stool, that the yjew of him might not be interrupted. . In an inner apartment we discovered Yarra sitting alone on buffalo hides j and we were desired to plo.ce ourselves near him. The walls of t,bis a.partment were adorned with very good prints of our most gracious sovereign George the Fourth, his late royal brother the Duke of York, Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington on hOl":3eback, together "it.h an officer in the Light Dragoons, in company with t1 smo.rtly- dr~sscd and happy-looking English Indy. Opposite to t,hem were hWlg horsc-nccouh'ements; and Oil cnch side were dirty scraps of pa.per containing sclect sentences from the Koran. On the floor lay muskct-s, several handsomely-ornamented lances, and other weapons, nil confusedly heaped t.ogether by the side of u. large granite stone used for pounding pepper, These werc the most striking objccts we observed in the king-'s hut; adjoining which were othera, through whose diminutive doors Yarl"o 's wives were straining their eyes to catch a glimpse of our persons. 'Then we spoke of proceeding to Yaoorie by way of Wowow and Boossa, the king objected to our visiting the former st·ntc under any consideration; nlleging thnt three of the s l~ves who carried the goods for CapUlin Cla.pperton hacl never retw'lled to him u-Ku.in, but had remained at Wow'ow, where they were protected by the governor Mohammed; and that if he shoulel scud others with us to that place, they migbt do the salllC. He, therefore, promises to send us to Boosa, in four days' time, by another rondo 175 IudopendenWyof the above consideru.tion, the king is ll ighly incensed against the ruler of "rowow, fo r harsh trCl\tment of tho widow Zumn., who is his fl"iend a.nd rt>lath'c, and who hns lately fled to Boos~ for tho jlurpOSO o( olaiming the protection of the king of that country. It. is Sl\id th at Yarro's father, the late king of Kiamo., Juring his lifetime, enjoyed the friendship of 0.0 Arab from the desert, which was returned with equal warmth and sincerity. A similarity of disposi- tious and IJursuits produced a. mutual intercha.nge of kind actions; their friendship became so gren.t, t}mt tho king ''\VIlS nOYOl" happy except when in the Arab's l'ompany; and, as a proof of his esteem and confidonce, ho g'IWO him bis favourite do.ughtcr in marriage. Tho fruit of this nllio.nce is the restless widow Zuma, and honea her relationship to the present monarch of Ki£ma. To return to his futher and the Arab: their fri~nd~hip la8ted until the del\th of the latter. The king, how(}"er, was inconsolable for his loss, and lookcd around him in vain for some one to supply the pIneo of his fr~ond; but tho ardour of his affections was too strong, and, led by the hope of following his friend to t\uothcr world, ho committed suicide. Thia is tho most affecting instance of genuine friendship, and iudc('d tho only one,that has come to our hearing IIi nco we heINe beou iu the co\llitry. Yarro is much I.\tt~chcd to tllC widow Zuma; and she would haxc fled hither, instelld of going to Boossa, if her intentions had uo't been lOuspected, t\ud her actions. narrowly watched, hr the ruler of '''owow . • SlllldInughtering the sbeep which may have beon tlH.'ir companion in their peregrinations during ~hc pl\~t yeltr , lutd as soon as the holidays nre oyer, they procure uuothcr to supply its place, and, at the return of the festival, to tmdcrgo n similar fate. The cOOlpnTly of one of these animals is preferred by the natiyes to that of n dog. At 8un\'i~c to-morrow, nil the Mussulmen in Kiama, with t.he king nt their hend, will rep!l.ir to a eom·e- nicut Sl)ot, about a mile on the road to \Yowow. for tho purposo of publicly performing their devotions. Presently after returning from thence. horse·racing nnd other sports will be indulged in by nil classes of the iuhnbitnnts, who arc already filled with joy nt the bare anticipation of thc w,'ersions. A compa.ny of eight or ten dnnnmers nwokc us thi~ Norum!!, by the dismal noise of thcir drwus. and by tb(' cxdt\matiou of .. TUral£G all~.zhie /" signif);ng, " Whh(' mell! wo wish you fortune! II wbich was t('pen-led in a high, shrill t~nc o\'ery minute. La~t night Ki:im:.\ wns visited by a thunder-storm. wbi('h continued with dreadful violence for many hO\U'8: and tho torrents of rain which fell threatoned :-.-2 ISO KIAMA. to overwhelm us in our hut. Before we were aware of it, the wnter had rushed in at the door, Ilnd had completely soaked out mats nod bed-clot.bes, setting every light article in the room afloat. After. much trouble, we succeeded in draining it off, and prevent... iug its furtoher ingress, when we lit a large fire in the centre of the hut, and laid ourselves down by the side of it to sleep. It also rained heavily again this morn- ing; and, to all appearances, the wet season has llot lengt.h fairly set in. If this be the case, it will be next t.o impossible to travel much fan·her ; and if we be fortunate enough to reach Yuoorie, we shall be obliged to remain there some time till the roads shall have become sufficiently hard and dry for our future progress. 'Va have ouly to hope that the rains may not be so incessant at their commencement, as to render the path to Yaoorie impassable. W ednesday, J wUJ 2nd'.-The threatening appear- anCe of ehe weather prevented the Mohammedans from repail'ing to the spot which they had selected for t.be purposes of de\"otion, so early in the morning as they could have wished j but the clouds having dispersed. thoy had all assembled there between the hours of nine and ten. The worshippers arranged themseh-es in six lines or row'S, the women fonning the la-st, a nd sat down on as many ridges of earth, whicb bad appo.l'elltly been thl'ow'n up for the pm·pos!'A. The chief maUum no sooner began a prayer. than the toJ.king and noise of the multitude iUllUediately ceased. and the deepest attention seemed to be paid by everyone, though the subst.unce of what he said could only be guessed at, because it was in A.rabic, which none of them understand. 'I'he ceremony much l'esemhlcd that which Wfl..S performed at Badag ry ; and the forms which are generally prnct,ised, I bclicye, on all l)ublio religious meetings in Mohamn\edan countries, such KIA.l(A. 181 M nblu tion, pl'ostratioD, l'tc., were absented on this occn.siou. The king, howe\'er, did Dot rise, as he ahowel ha\'o dOlle, when t.he worshippers stood up, but satisfied himself by uttering the name of Alla, and by s.i.mple prostration only. \-, 'ben the usual form of pmyW" hOod been gone through, the head mallam placed lllDlaolf on a hillock, and f9r about five minutes read' to ~ho PCOIJlo a. fow loose pages of t.he Koran, 'which he holel io his haod. While thus engaged, two priests of inforior order knelt beside him to hold the hem of his tobe, and 1\ third, in the same position, held the skit·ts fl'om beh.ind. After he had finished reading, tho pric!it dO!:lc('udcu from the hillock, and, with the h('lp of his a~sistD.nts, slaughtered a. sheep which bad bCQU bOlU\d t\nu brought to him for sacrifice. The bloou of tho o.nimal WIlS caught in a calabash; a.nd tho )Jug nml the more deNted of his subjects washed the.if hands in it, (Uld sprinkled some of it on the ground. This conclusiou of the ceremony "·a5 onnolUloed by the dischltrge of u, few old rnusket-s; and with drums beating and fifes playing, the people rcturued to their respective homes. Most of them woro Slllartly dressed in aU the finery they could l}ro~ cure. About a hml.d.l'cd of the meD rode Oil horseback, with Ii\UCCS and othor weapons in their hands, which, with the gny trnppings of their horses, gave them a l'('spcctablo o.pIJearancc. In the afternoon, nil the inhabi.tants of the town, Ilnd mall.\' from the little \'ilIng-es in its neighbourhood, n~s('mbled to witness the horse~racing, which takes plnc~ alwu,rs on the a.uniyersary of the ('Bebun Salah," at\ ~l to 'which ('yery onc had been looking forward with impiloticilce. Prcrions to its comrocncement. the king. with his principal attendants, rode slowly round th~ town, more for the purrose of recciying the admimtioll and pla.udits of his pCQple tha.n to observe. 1112 KIAMA, where distress more pn.rticularly prevailed, which was his avowed intention. A hint from the chief induced us to attend the course with ow' pistols, to salute him ll~ he rode by; and as we felt a strong inclination to 'iVltuess the amusements of tbe day, we were there rather sooner than was necessary, which afforded us~ however, n. fairer opportlmity of observing the various groups of people which were flocking to the scene of amusement. The race-course was bounded on the north by low granite hills j on the south by a forest; and on the east and west by t.all shady trees, among which werc habitations of the people. Under the shadow of these magnificen~ trees t,he spectators were ~semblea. and testified tbeir happiness by their noisy mirth and anirua.ted gestures. When we arriYed, the king had uot made his allpearnnce on tbe course j but his absence was fully compensated by thc pleasure- we derived from wntching the anxious and animated countenances of the multitude, and in passing our opinions on the taste of t,ho women in the choice Mtd adjustment of t,heir fanciful and many-coloured dresses. The chief's wives and younger children ant near us in 11 group by themselyes; and were distinguished fl'Om their companions by their superuor dress. Manchester cloths of inferior quality, but of the most showy patterns, and dresses made of common English bed-furniture. were fastened round the waist of Seyeril.l sooty maidens, who, for the sake of fluttering n short hour in the gaze of their couutrymen, had sacrificed in olothes the cumings of (I twelvemonth's labour. All the women had orna- mented their necks with strings of beads, and t,heir wrists with bracelets of various patterns, some mado of glass beads, some of bruss, ot.hers of copper j and somci again of a mixture of both met.als: t·heir ancles RIAhlJ\. ·183 8\SO wore adorned with different sorts of rings, of neat workmanship. T he distant sound of drums gnve notice of the king's ~Pl)roo.chJ and ew~ry eye was immediately dirCflted to tho quarter from whence he was e).-pected. Tho cavaloade shortly appeared, and four horsemen tirst dt'oW up in front of the chief's house, which wu.s ncar the centre of thl) course, and close to the IIpot whore his wives and_children and ourselves were sitting, Several men bearing on their heads an immense quantity of arrows ill huge quivers of Jeopard's skin came next, followed by two, persollS who, by their extraordinary antics and gcst,nres, we concluded to bl) buffoons. These two last were cmploj'ed in throwing st.icks into the nir o.s they weut on, ilnd adroitly catching them in falling, besides pcrforuling many whimsical and ridiculous feat:'!. llobiuu theso, a.nd immediately preceding the king. 1\ group of littlo boys, nearly naked, came dancing morril y nJong. flomishiog cows' t.ails oyer tholr heads in all directions. Tho king rode onwards. folio,,'ed by n number of fino~looking mon, on hand~ SOUle steeds; and the motley cn valcnde all drew up in front of his hol.1Bo, where they awaited his further orders without disQlounting, 1'his wo thought was the prop('r time to giyo the :first sal~te, so we accordingly :fired three rounds; and our exnmple was immediately followed by two soldiers, with muskets which were mndo at least 0. century a.nd a half ago. Prepara.tions in the mean time had boen going on for thc mco, und tho horsea ,\;th theu., riders made thelr appcnmuCQ. The men were dress(..>d in caps and loose tobes nnd trousers of evcrr colour; boots of TC'd morOcco leailier, Ilnd tW'buns of whi.te and blue cotolou. Tho horses ware gaily co.parisoned i striDgs (1f littlo bra~ bells cO\'cred their heads i their breasts KLUU. were ornamented with bright red cloth and tassels of silk and cotton j a large quilted pad of neat embroidered patchwork was placed under t.he saddle of each; and little charms, inclosed in red !lod yellow cloth, were attached to the bridle mth bits of tinsel. The Arab saddle nnd stirrup were in common use; and the whole groop presented Illl imposing appearance. The signal for st.arting was made, and the iru· patient animals sprang forward and set off at 0. full gallop. The riders brandished their spears, the little boys flourished their cows' tails, the buffoons per· formed their antics, muskets were discharged, and the chief himself, mounted on the finest horse on the ground, watched the progress of the ru.ee, while tenrs of delight were starting from his eyes. The sun shone gloriously on the tobes of green, ,,-hite, yellow, blue, and crimson, &.s they :fluttered in the breeze j and with the fanciful MPS, the glittering spears, t.he jingling of the horses ' bells, the animated looks cmd warlike bearing of their riders, presented one of the most extraordinar.r and pleasing sights that we haye ever witnessed. The ra.ee'\vas well contested, ilnd ter· minated only by the horses beiug fntigued and out of breath; but though every one was emulons t.o oufsr,rip his companion, honour and fame WCre the only TOward of the cow}lctiwrs. A few nnked boys, on ponies without saddles, t.hen rode over the course, after which the second nnd last heat commenced. This was not by any means so good as the first, owing to the grentor anxiety which the horsemen evi.nced to display their skin in tho use of the spenr and t.h~ management of their animnls. Tho king maintained his seat on horseba.ck during these amusements, WitJlOut O\'on once dismO\Ulting to converse with his :wives and children, who wero 1\.1.\).IA. 185 ",irling on the ground on cnell f\ ido of him. TIis dress WI\!'I showy mlh(\r thun ri ch, consisting of a red cap, ('lI\olopctl in the largo folds of n while muilin turbnn i two utHl~r-tobl's of blue nnd scarlet cloth, and an outer OtH.' of white muslin; red Lrouscrs, and boots of 8£'nI'1,t I\IHI yollow Ienther. ilis horse seemed dis- tre"!"!'u by tile weight of his rider, and tho ya.rious (,"l(\IIlllnt~ nnll tl'nppings with which his hend, brenst, nud body were hedecked. '1'he chief's eldest nod Y1mngcst sonH were 1\00.1' his women. o.u(l other chil- dron, IllQuntl'll 00 two noble-looking horses. The dd('st of these yOlltht' was about ele"en years of age. The yOUIII-'{OHt being not more tho.n th.l'ee, was held on tIll' \Jilek of hiH nn.lmnl by 0. mlllo attondo.nt, as he ''1\:-. ul\I\bh' to' ait upri~ht in tho saddle wi.thout tbis M~i stanc('. 'l'ho .... hild s dl'c~'1 wus ill suited to his age. Ho wore on hi s hend l\ ti~ht en.p of Manchester cottou, hut it ovcrhung' tho upper purl of his fllce, IIIlII togdh(ll' with its ond~, which Happed oyer ench ('h('C'k, hill uenrly the whole of h.is countenance from vicw : hill. tobe ~nd lrOUl'lcr8 woro made exactly in tho ~am(l fl\~hion Il~ tho!le of n mnn, and two hrrgc belts of hlu(' eoLtoD, which cro~cd eneh other, confined tho tohe to his bo..ty, 1J..1ho little legs of the child were 8wtillowC'..t up in ohunflY ydlow boots, big onough for hi i fnther: u.ud tholl~h he wos rather pretty, his whilll~icl\l dre~~ gn.\c him n.ltogcther so odd an ap- rellr(\nC~~, that he might hnve been token for anything but whal h(\ r('oliy \\"I\S. A fl'W of tho women on tbe ~r(lund by the s"idl' of the king wore large white dl'\~~"'cs, \\ hid\ 00'('1'('(\ thoir persons like 0. wind.U\g- llhcet. Young' il'gins, according to custom, appeared ill n IItMl' of n\l{lity ; Uluny of them bad wild Howers Rtlwk hl'hind thdr COl'S, IllHt strings of bendB. &0" rllunl! tlwil' lOIn!! ; but wt\l\t of clothing did not BcrID 10 ,1nmp thcir ph'l\~ul'e in tho 13otorttunment. for they DAliA. a.ppeared to enter into it with as much zest as any of their com:g.anions. Of t.he different coloured t.obes worn by t.he Olen, none looked so well as those of a deep crimson colour on some of the horsemen j but the clean white lobes of the Mohammedan priests, of whom not less than a hundred were present on the occasion, were extremely neat and becoming. The sport terminated without the slightest accident, and the king 's dismounting was a signal for the people to disperse. Vte then paid our respect-s to the chief a-s usual, but our reception was formal and chilling, though nothing couhl have been more gratifying to him than O\lr attendance on the present occasion. We had half a mind to be vexed at .this mortifying repulse, but consoled ourMlves W'it.h the reflection that we had no r ight to oxpect anything more than common co.urtesy and politeness. Besides this, he waS sur· rounded by the loveliest of his women and the-most warlike of his subjects ; and being a rigid i\fohamme· dan when it suits his convenience, he might ha.ve co.nsidercd us n·s the enemies of his religion. To have shown, therefore, too grent familio.rity with us in the sight of his people, would, perhnps, haye been utibc. coming the dignity of t.he chief of Ki.'ma. We have hero endeavoured, to the best of our ability, to describe an JVricnn horse·ro.ce; but. it. is impossible to conyey a correct idea of the singular and fnntastic nppenrnnce of the nuruerous groups of people that. IDet OU1" view on nU sides, or to describe their animation and delight,-the martial equipment of the soldiers aDd their noble steeds, nnd tho wild , romantio, aud onwpowering interest of the whole mass. Sinn-jng nnd dancing have been kel)t np all night, nnd tho reyellers will not think of retiring to rest till morning. KlAill. 187 Tlwrsda.tl. Jl!lne 3rd.-Our hostess is a poor, but kind, pleasant, and comfortable-looking widow, rather gtrickeu in years. To be sincerely grateful for favours receiyed is not in the disposition of her country- ll(X)pic generally; yot this poor woman bas given us all affecting instance of this yirtue, nlthough our presents to her wero so poor and trilling, that we were o.lmost ashamed to offer them. This little specimen ot' gonuine gratitnde repays ns for hundreds of sour looks and discontentod cOWltcnances, which of late we hllxc been compelled to witne~s. U()hind our but gl'ows a taU aud beautiful tree, on the branches and shoot.s of which reside a whole cenunonwcnlth of spaITows, in their ingenious pen- dont n{'st~. Tho constant noise of these little crea- t\lrc~, and the t\\;ttoring of swallows, which rema.in ht'ro all tho yrar round. form our usual morning's (lutcrtainml'nt. Thil' sparrow is a "cry handsome bird, 11ml belongs to a species which, at Sierra Leone and other l)loces, is called the .. rice-bird." \Vc are 0,150 favou.red by tho visits of turtle-doves and wooo- pigeons. A fc,\' days o,go, one of the lotteI'. tnlsting too lUuch to the forbel\rl\nce of our l)coplc, ventured into Olle of their huts, and was thero taken and de- stroyed. The disconsolato mate witnessed the act; he has been lingering about our habitations oyer siuce, onll is wosting himself awo,y in mOUJ'ning the lo::\s of his companion. Ilis fidolity has cn.lled forth our sympothy, and we do not suffer him to be mo- Lost(ld. LizarM. in great number and variety. infest the wa.l.b and roofs of om' huts. runong which is oue of a black sp<'cit.'s. whoso bite is considered fn.ta!. * This n.'I)tilc il:' Yer)" rare, and is dreaded by every oue. not • It i~ u~m\-d Q3 \luiu\l'l by tbe u"ti"t'~ Ilt th(' it-till ill England, or I\\~ tarorlW/u ill I t:1~YJ \'\"llich it abo:l. kind ofH~rd. .188 on account of the ' V"cnomous properties which are ascribed to it, so much as from the belief that the person who sees one, and suffers it to escape him, will soon after experience Borne heavy calamity. ~he Datives also believe tho. t if a black lizard be destroyed as soon as it is found, fifes arc played and drums beat in the c:Iestiol regions, where there is great rejoicing at tlle circumstance j and that good fortune is sure to be the reward of the person who may rid the world of such a nuisance. We obser'i'ed a lizard yesterday with two tails, which phenomenon, we are told, is not unCOlllDlOD here. Ot.her lizards, of every species and colour, a:rc numerous. As tbis is a holiday at Kiama, it has been spent by it.s inhabitants in visiting ea.ch other, in walking up and down the public places to display their fineny, or in singing, dancing, and musical parties. Lit,de boys aud young men have been on their knees pray- ing for us to.day i and as they were not. impertinent, but, on the contrary. evinced gentleness t1ud mo- desty in their demeanour, we would not suffer. them to .leave us without rewarding each ",it,h a darning- needle. Wo have been detained in Kiama thus long by reason, it is alleged. . of the holidays; and as to:mor- row will be the Mohllmmednn Snbbat.h, we shall not be able to procure carriers till the following morning. We e),."Pected, naturally enough, t,hat plenty of good Jlrovendel', and a fow da.ys· rest, would recruit the strength of our horses; but, UDfortuuntely~ t\ con- trary effect has been produced. My brother's, morc espeoially, has fallen away to 0.. perfect skeleton: , cer· tainly. with the exception of R()$inante, no horse, either in ancient 01' modern times, over presented a spectacle more piteous und woe-begone i it is quite painful even to look n·t his flesblcss carcase. KlAlfA. 189 Frida!!. J une 4th .-Perhnps no two people in the uuh'orse, residing so near each other, differ morc widely in their habits nnd customs, a,ud even in their Dll.turOS, tban the natives of Yarriba and Borgoo. Tho formcr tue perpotunlly engaged in trnding with oneh other from town to town; the latter never quit their towns except in case of war. or when engaged in predn.tol'Y excnrsions: the fonner nro pusi1l3lni- lUOllS and cowardly; the latter are bold and courage- ous, full of spirit and energy, and noyer seem ha.ppier than when engaged in runrtinJ oxorcises j the former ure generally mild, unassuming, humble, and honest. but cold and passionless; the la.tter arc proud and haughty-too rain to be chil, and too shrewd to be honO!~t; yet they appear to understand somewhat of the nature of loye nnd the sociDl afi'ectioUB, are wann in their attac1Ullcnts, Ilnd keen in their resent- llients. The king ,-.jaited us at our hut this morning, attended by three or four of his younger wives. The object of his coming was to gct something from u.s j therefor" ,ye considol'~d it no complinient. Yal'ro haa seen all tho articles which we have ginm to his peoplc-a eustom which prevails here us wc.U o.s i.n larribu, ; but, unlike tho mcwnrch of tho. t country, he hos cOllverted to his own use those among thom with which he wus best pleased. Even hia brother, who is 0. vcr~t good young Ul3..U, and who accompall.icJ \IS from Kee~heo as messenger, has suffored frOUl his soHishncss, husing been deprived of half tho few Hungs we had given him. for his scp"'~es. 1'h" king's clllcst son is go'\'"ornor of 0. to,,-u through w hieh W~ l:lhaU htl.'"o to pass ou our way to Booss.\, nnll it is ogre('d that he sholl nccompAuy us to that ci ty. It is customnry to give tho ruossouger5 no .90 KIAMA. present proportionate to t.he services they may hare rendered us; and in the course of conversation this morning with tho king, he wished to see the present it wn-s our intention to qfi:Cl' his son. This was pre. sently shown him, and he took from it the only piece of cloth which it contained, and which we nre unable to replace. ne then begged a little medicine for weak eyes; nnd my brother presented him witli a quantity of. . Epsom so,lts, and a sman syringe. The king inunediately began trying experiments on the jnstfument by spirting water into the faces of his wiycs, w'ho did not appear to ot~oy the diversion so well as himself. Afeer a long, but uninteresting conversation, Ya1'ro took his leave, followed by hls women, and it i.s not likely that we shall see him again till the time of our departure to-morrow moruing. I havo given him my fowling-piece !lnd 11 pistol, having promised him this _prosent when I left, if I should liYe to return 'to Kiallllt; the king has also had sorue of our best new gilt buttons. In the evelling, a vcry old and l'cspect.abJe FalJ'ttah, the chief of a vWage at n short (list.ance from Kiama, CllIDO to soc us with several of IDS people. This sin- gular race :\1'0 dispersed all over the Borgoo territ.ories, where they have I'csided from timeimmemoriul. They are generally styled Fouatnie~' but although this word is evidently deriyed from Foulah, and alt.hough thoy spenk the same 1rmguage and fono,,~ the same pursuits as the Foulahs Ileal' Sierra Leone, w-ho UTC supposed to be the white Et.hiopinus of Ptolemy and Pliny, yet ilie,)' have not the slightest idea of their. orimu, nor of the period when their anccstors first em'fgra.ted from t,heir native In,nd. The Fau\t.ahs iu Borgoo mo.iutuin no intercourse whatever with t.heir- count.rymen in H!mssa j and in order to pl'E>Ycnt lQis- L£A\'E KIAM A. 191 ('hil'f nnd di sturbances from taking place, none of them nrl' p('rmitted, on nny consideration, to wear 0 sword, ur el~rry about his persoll ony offensive weapon. A row yea.rs ngo, there stood n village not many mii(,q from Ki.liuo, which was inhabited solely by emigrnllts from NoufEe; but it is Mid to have been hl'&ol)' pluudered and destroyed by Yarro's subjects, who nnst broko faith with the unfortunate people, and nftorwrmls made them shwes. 'rll(, menu stnte of the thermometer of Fahrenheit hll~ been 84 j the extremes 75 and 94 in OUI hut. CIUPTER Yll. [)0!'llltnro from Kidmn-NnuV"c Grntitudc-ViIlngc of Ktlhfongi _l'oinltvo Dnnce-J uho Lander tnken ill_De!erted Route- CloH tll(' Hivcr Oly-Story of tho Fali\tab_Eu,,,mpmeut_ 1'<>rn.1U(l-Il1UI.'U of Juhn .Lnndcr-.Mc~~cngcn from Coobly with nui'lancc--Arrh'l1.l. in tbat town-Rlccption-Prt'H'uta rrolll UtlM'Il- ,i\l ouut Cornw~II-Rcco"nr of John I..:inut't'-- LcaH~ Coobly-Huins- Town of Za.lcC-:Arrin,l at Dooua- R(,~l'pUOD . R(rltm{orl, J une 5th.-Tn.E adieu of an African rrince i~ the most unceremonious piece of business in th(, wl)rlll: whnto\-er expressions may be used, little fegrN is fl.'It. Such at least is our opinion, from the l'oolnl'~~ \I-e luwc almost invAriably experienced in rnrtiu~ from the principal }leopic of the towns ond \"illtl~es through which we have po.s..<::;ed. ,Yc werc hl)l'Schl1C'k between scnm and eight o'clock this ~orning. having prenou:;}y raid ~ur late visit to the kIU~, :\U\1 h\keu our fUf\'weU of ll1ID ; Bnd proceeded in goo